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Steering column 1971 Plymouth Satellite 4 dr.

Pat Toscano

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Council Bluffs, IA
Hi everyone:
Recently, I posted a thread about lowering the steering column on my 71 Satellite to remove the instrument cluster. I have removed the two nuts from the bracket along with the rear bolt and have loosened the firewall plate bolt. The most I can get it to drop is about two inches. Someone suggested that I turn the steering wheel a quarter turn to put the coupling in a better position to drop the column That was to no avail. Any other ideas you could suggest?

Thanks!
 
Remove the steering wheel. You need a puller to do it. By one, it is worth it. If your force the column down any further you risk popping the cover off of the steering coupler. That aint fun getting back together.
 
Remove the steering wheel. You need a puller to do it. By one, it is worth it. If your force the column down any further you risk popping the cover off of the steering coupler. That aint fun getting back together.
Thanks, Paul. Sure wouldn't want that to happen!
 
the coupler is designed to move around allmost the same on any position. The limit is set by the coupler assembly itself anyway.

there is room enought to remove the cluster with those 2 inches. If you remove the A/C-Heater control unit from underneath will be easier too. ( 2 3/8" nuts on back and 1 1/4" screw for the extra bracket )

You still can loose the big steering column bracket which is attached to firewall with 3 bolts too.
 
the coupler is designed to move around allmost the same on any position. The limit is set by the coupler assembly itself anyway.
Thanks! Will give that a try!
there is room enought to remove the cluster with those 2 inches. If you remove the A/C-Heater control unit from underneath will be easier too. ( 2 3/8" nuts on back and 1 1/4" screw for the extra bracket )

You still can loose the big steering column bracket which is attached to firewall with 3 bolts too.
 
The column will move in and out, which is the amount of movement inside the coupler. Jerking the column around, probably pulling it too far out is what pops the cover off the coupler, not the angle of the column. But, I have popped that cover off before. Not worth the risk, just makes more work for yourself. Good idea to remove the heater controller first. And sometimes remove the nuts from the headlight switch and wiper switch. Leaving them in the dash makes it easier too.
 
And sometimes remove the nuts from the headlight switch and wiper switch. Leaving them in the dash makes it easier too.

being Satellite 4 doors it got Standard cluster. Play with the switches on Standard cluster is easier than with Rallye cluster. Remove cluster with A/C-Heater control unit still attached is also easier with Standard cluster than Rallye, but is about give the try.
 
I just switched out the faceplate of my cluster.

It wasn't the most fun working through the gaps that were not quite big enough to get my hand through, let alone while holding a small nut in my fingers and feeling around for where it's supposed to go, but I eventually did it.

Pull the large plug off the headlight switch.

The heater control has two 3/8" nuts on either side.
You can get the outboard one off through the side gap.
The inboard one is a PITA as is the 3rd one that hols a flat metal support bar.
I still need to put those two back on.

Be careful of the bottom corners of the cluster near the column opening.
Also watch the right hand dash area below the cluster and around up the right side.
It's real easy to scratch that area up jockeying the cluster around to get better angles on stuff behind it.

I also put the car in neutral so the column would move more and the selector wan't in the way.
Selector placement N/A on a slap stick.

Is this a standard dash or rallye?

On a standard, pull the big, round the multi-pin connector that's mostly for lights.

Did you get the radio loose?
There's a nut on the right side that you can barely get out through the gap.
Last time I took out the ash tray.
 
Thanks, nacho. Will give that a try!
The column will move in and out, which is the amount of movement inside the coupler. Jerking the column around, probably pulling it too far out is what pops the cover off the coupler, not the angle of the column. But, I have popped that cover off before. Not worth the risk, just makes more work for yourself. Good idea to remove the heater controller first. And sometimes remove the nuts from the headlight switch and wiper switch. Leaving them in the dash makes it easier too.
Thanks, Paul!
 
I just switched out the faceplate of my cluster.

It wasn't the most fun working through the gaps that were not quite big enough to get my hand through, let alone while holding a small nut in my fingers and feeling around for where it's supposed to go, but I eventually did it.

Pull the large plug off the headlight switch.

The heater control has two 3/8" nuts on either side.
You can get the outboard one off through the side gap.
The inboard one is a PITA as is the 3rd one that hols a flat metal support bar.
I still need to put those two back on.

Be careful of the bottom corners of the cluster near the column opening.
Also watch the right hand dash area below the cluster and around up the right side.
It's real easy to scratch that area up jockeying the cluster around to get better angles on stuff behind it.

I also put the car in neutral so the column would move more and the selector wan't in the way.
Selector placement N/A on a slap stick.

Is this a standard dash or rallye?

On a standard, pull the big, round the multi-pin connector that's mostly for lights.

Did you get the radio loose?
There's a nut on the right side that you can barely get out through the gap.
Last time I took out the ash tray.
It has the standard cluster and a radio delete so one less thing to remove. I will remove the heater/AC control along with the ashtray and headlight switch. I need to replace some bulbs and replace the voltage limiter so should have enough clearance. Thanks for all the suggestions, Paul!
 
Not really necessary to remove headlight switch, just multi-wire plug.

If you must remove it you know they "trick" right?

There's a button on the inboard side of the housing that releases the knob and shaft.
Mine was finicky.
 
the coupler is designed to move around allmost the same on any position. The limit is set by the coupler assembly itself anyway.

there is room enought to remove the cluster with those 2 inches. If you remove the A/C-Heater control unit from underneath will be easier too. ( 2 3/8" nuts on back and 1 1/4" screw for the extra bracket )

You still can loose the big steering column bracket which is attached to firewall with 3 bolts too.
Removing the 3 bolts holding the steering column bracket to firewall will allow the steering wheel to rest on your seat. Really helped on my 72.
 
It has the standard cluster and a radio delete so one less thing to remove. I will remove the heater/AC control along with the ashtray and headlight switch. I need to replace some bulbs and replace the voltage limiter so should have enough clearance. Thanks for all the suggestions, Paul!

Are you switching to a rallye cluster?? If so would you be willing to sell your standard cluster?

thanks
 
I'd like to see the standard cluster with no radio.

I'm about to fabricate that for my car.

I've seen rallye no radio but never std no radio.

Woodgrain or silver?
 
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