Steering gear box removal

Brakes, Steering & Suspension

  1. Randy73

    Randy73 Well-Known Member

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    I am looking at my service manual and the one thing I cannot find is how to remove the thing, but it tellings me how to rebuild the thing.

    So how do you remove the sucker?
     
  2. 5wndwcpe

    5wndwcpe Huge Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Just got done doing this myself 20 minutes ago.

    1) Loosen the three mounts to the steering column, directly under the dash.
    2) Remove the four bolts holding the column to the floor
    3) Drive the roll pin out of the steering coupler
    4) Pry the coupler off of the spline
    a. You'll need to work this back and forth a bunch
    b. Penetrating oil in the hole where the roll pin was helps
    c. If it gets near the end of the spline, but doesn't quite come off, you'll need to
    support the column and remove the 3 nuts under the dash
    5) Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the pitman arm
    6) Seperate the pitman arm from the draglink
    7) Remove the three 12 point bolts holding the box to the k frame and don't drop it,
    it's freakin heavy

    Hope this helps :eek:ccasion14:
     
  3. WileERobby

    WileERobby Well-Known Member

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    Access is usually removal of the battery & tray, PS pump (if so), & lifting the left side of the engine somewhat. Disconnect the pressure & return hoses (IF power). Drive out the roll pin in the shaft joint. Loosen the column to slide out the joint (good time to rebuild it now). Pull the drag link off the pitman arm. 3 bolts hold the box to the subframe. This is basic off the top of my head, maybe a few other details, but it's not difficult (but that box be heavy ! ).
     
  4. Randy73

    Randy73 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks all, well now I wont have to wonder what I will be doing next weekend.
     
  5. YY1

    YY1 Well-Known Member

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    Does that roll pin come out either way?
     
  6. Randy73

    Randy73 Well-Known Member

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    Which reman to go with?

    A-1 cardone
    Lares
    Fenco
    AC Delco

    There may be others, but these are what I found.

    YY1, my Cuda went both ways and looks like the charger does, but it is hard to tell right now the way it is sitting.
     
  7. wedge5

    wedge5 Well-Known Member

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    Very good details guys! If you have headers they will be in the way also. Manual box comes in aroung 25lbs (give or take a few).

    Yes the pin will drop out either end.
     
  8. Randy73

    Randy73 Well-Known Member

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    why do you have to lift the motor?

    Looks like it will drop out the bottom.
     
  9. WileERobby

    WileERobby Well-Known Member

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    Maybe/maybe not have to raise the engine on the left side, depending if you have interference with exhuast manifold/header. How you getting that box past the k-frame/linkage/pipes ? Pull it up outta there. It's been a while since I did a box IN the car, the last few I've restored with the K-frame lowered/out of the car (that's the real easy way ! )
     
  10. Al K

    Al K Well-Known Member

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    Just replaced mine in the '64. Had the car on ramps-this job is best done from underneath the car. You'll probably remove the two right side bolts first,which means it'll be hanging on the left-side bolt. Support the box when removing the last bolt or the threads will get ripped up. Just carefully "rotate" it over the centerlink-DON'T DROP IT!-out of the frame area and you're good to go. As I was putting headers on,the starter and exhaust system were removed,so that made it easier.

    Now,the install: I got mine into position and put the lower of the two bolts on one side in first. Then the one above it. You'll have to grab the box with one hand and work it around while threading the left side bolt(the hard one to get to) in place. DON'T cross-thread it(easy to do;ask me how I know this...) and you will be rockin'. Wouldn't hurt to run a tap through the holes as well. Good luck,and be careful.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2011
  11. YY1

    YY1 Well-Known Member

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    What size is the pittmann arm nut?

    I have a 1 1/4, and that's too small, and a 1 1/2 is too big.

    Is it 1 3/8 or one of the in between 16th sizes? Thanks.
     
  12. Al K

    Al K Well-Known Member

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    Mine is 1-5/16;you'll want the correct size(not "close") socket when torquing it back on there.
     
  13. Randy73

    Randy73 Well-Known Member

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    This what I had to do -

    1) remove 3 bolts connecting steering column to the floor and 4 bolts connecting column to the dash frame.

    2) remove exhaust manifold, it sits about an 1 1/2' above the gear box on a 340.

    3) removed battery and tray, as this is the only way to get it out of a 73 charger, k-frame blocks it from coming out underneath.

    4) removed PS Pump and hoses, might not have to, but I was replacing it anyway.

    5) drive pin out of steering column and pry off, was real easy as old gearbox leaked fluid all over it.

    6) removed pitman arm, mine was already off and again you probably could leave it on.

    7) Pulled up on rear and it came right out, though I do suggest putting something in the port opening so fluid does not leak out all over.
     
  14. Randy73

    Randy73 Well-Known Member

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    How do you get the 3rd bolt in, the one by itself?

    I cannot seem to get that bolt in or when I do the bolts seem to bind up, also I cannot get the box flush with the frame and the bolt holes at the same time.
     
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