• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Stock rebuild piston and cam for 67 440 HP

CodyS

CodyS

Well-Known Member
Local time
12:44 PM
Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
103
Reaction score
122
Location
South Dakota
I am starting to look into parts to put together my 440 hp together for my 67 Coronet R/T 4 speed. I am looking to put it back to factory specs. When I bought the car the engine was out and in pieces, no old pistons or camshaft to go off of. I am wondering if anyone has done the research on what piston is closest to the factory piston for compression and hp purposes, I will be running a stock deck high block and stock 915 heads that have not been milled. If anyone knows what the factory cam specs for a 4 speed car were could you please share the info, thanks. I will probably just have a cam ground to the specs if I can find the original one to go off of. Thanks ahead of time for any info that would help me. I thought I had I picture of my car on my phone to share with you guys but it must of gotten deleted.
 
Mopar performance number P4452783AE is a replica of the original 440 hp cam. Any chrysler dealer or Mancini racing, could supply it for you. That is the one bolt version. They also make a three bolt version.
 
Tech Books...
Basics
The 440 was first introduced in 1966 and was a 90-degree V8 design that used hydraulic lifters actuated by a single camshaft mounted in the center of the engine block. The valves are a standard in head design and are opened and closed by push rods actuating a shaft mounted rocker arm system. Production of the 440 ended in 1978.


Bore/Stroke
The 440 engine had a 4.00-inch diameter cylinder bore and a crank stroke of 3.75 inches. This resulted in a 9:5:1 compression ratio. Later high-performance 440 Six Pack engines had a compression ratio of 10:5:1. After 1971, compression ratios were lowered for emissions compliance.

Crankshaft
The 440 used a forged crankshaft. The main crank journals were 2.75-inch, and the rod journals were 2.375-inch. The crank was secured in the block with two bolt main caps. Later four-barrel and high-performance Six Pack models used an improved-quality forged-steel crank, and in 1974 a lighter-duty cast iron crank was introduced.

Ignition
The 440 engine used an angle mounted distributor that was located on the left front of the engine. The engine used a 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order throughout its production. The number 1 cylinder is located at the right front of the engine.

Oil
The 440 had an externally mounted oil pump and produced 45-65 psi of oil pressure. The oil filter was located at the lower right of the engine and was a standard screw on paper element design. Depending upon the version of 440, oil capacity ranged from 5 to 7 quarts.

Casting Material
The standard engine block, intake manifold and cylinder heads were made of cast iron. The intake manifold on the Six Pack performance versions was a cast aluminum unit produced in limited quantities in 1969 and early 1970 for Chrysler. Later Six Pack intake manifolds were made of cast iron.

Power
The 440 in base form as introduced in 1966 produced 350 horsepower at 4,400 rpm. It produced 480 pound-feet of torque at 2,800 rpm. Horsepower ratings increased in the following year to 375 for four-barrel performance versions, and the later 440 Six Pack performance engine was rated at 390 horsepower and 490 pound-feet of torque.












'440 HP'

Lift............. .450"/.458"
Duration...... 268*/284*
Overlap....... 46*

Found in the;
* 440/375 HP .......... {1967}
* 440/375 HP .......... {1968 thru 1970}
* 383/335 HP .......... {1968/1969} 'Road Runner' and 'Super Bee'
* 383/330 HP .......... {1969 A-Body}
* 383/335 HP .......... {1970}

Called the 'General Performance Camshaft' or 440 HP.

Camshaft names;
* 440 HiPo
* 440 Super Commando
* 440 Magnum
* 383 Road Runner
 
Oddly enough, the Speed Pro 2266 piston is close to the original factory piston for 67. You might have detonation issues with it. Probably want to shoot for 9.2:1 compression ratio. Fat head gasket might get you there depending on final chamber volume. There are better piston choices but they use a 0.990" pin and might still need some creativity to run on pump gas.

Bob K cam.
 
I don't understand why anyone doing a "stock" style rebuild would not upgrade internal parts for a more spirited drive. Just take a look at stock appearing and F.A.S.T. racing combos that still work well on pump gas.
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
I don't understand why anyone doing a "stock" style rebuild would not upgrade internal parts for a more spirited drive. Just take a look at stock appearing and F.A.S.T. racing combos that still work well on pump gas.
Click to expand...

Anyone doing well in those classes is not on pump gas.
 
OK
I've built many 440's with 915 heads
problem 67 gas is no longer available
what are you going to use for fuel E85?

stock intake- what carb do you have
HP iron exhaust manifolds

build 0 use the 6 pack pistons and tight quench .040
open up the chambers 5cc to get the compression down
no way would i use the old magnum cam gas is not available
the stock compression height is not usual today so balance will change
i'd check out the KB pistons and maybe adjust the quench dome for the closed chamber heads
report back

build 1 stock stroke blueprint rebuild
rebuild the rods with MP or SPS bolts or new rods
First either get the block checked so you know how much you have to deck it to get it square or just deck it square some blocks are waaaay off end to end, side to side, twist and you need to know before you order

you need a piston with 6 pack compression height or or a little more to get 0 deck (or close)
FT may give you too much compression for your fuel
so you may need one with a D-Dish like the famous TRW "Turbo" piston

stock pistons are way too heavy so don't do what we used to do and take the TRW/ SP 6 pack piston and mill D dishes
again modiffing the kb quench/ dish piston would work
I run quench around .030 but anything below around .040 works and makes it easier on timing and fuel
so do your compression calculations with .028 to .050 gaskets
.050 because sometimes the blocks have to be decked so much that the piston is out of the block- I've done .015 out YMMV

Build 2 Check out the price of stroker kits with the COmpression height and cc's in the pistons to get the CR you want- may not be much more than doing the rods and buying pistons
while you are at it you can go to BBC rod bearings and longer rods and get that piston weight down even more

When you do your heads
you cc them and you can end up at around 80 cc if you unshroud the valves or under 70 if you mill them a bunch
so to mill them
cc each end of each head and mill to equalize- use that cc for your calcs
if the intake seats are sunk then go up one valve size- a popular mod
on the exhaust install the premium Dura Bond sintered seats- no off brand "chrome moly" unidentified crap which might as well be exhaust tubing
of course Martin Wells premium seats are ok also
You are going to do a modern multi angle valve job
we have several excellent head guys on this site and I recommend you contact them regarding radius seats and whatever- just DIY cleaning up the bowls makes a big difference
Ports are similar to later heads but keep the velocity up
we used our then new Serdi valve machine to cut the seats instead of grinding them and cutters that would open the bowls requieing just a little blend at the bottom
Recall that we were building mostly motorhome builds and street not street-strip
For motorhomes/ towing we used a slightly larger intake with a 30 degree seat but our cam lifts were under .500 you need to research and specify what is right for your build
cut your guides for viton positive seals - I consider teflon to be too dry


guides- I like the spiral k-line inserts
if you are getting new valves consider 11/32 or 5/16 stems
and beehive springs
anything to get the valve weight (and piston weight) down make a different experience

cam no way would i use the Magnum cam in anything today
need to know how you want to drive it- stop and go daily driver or saturday nights
did you say 3.23s? you can't go to big and be any fun in traffic

you do not need roller tip rockers- if you think you do contact B3 racing before spending $$$
 
"The 440 engine had a 4.00-inch diameter cylinder bore and a crank stroke of 3.75 inches." Slight correction.....4.32" bore. Good informative post though.
 
The last ‘stock’ 440 I did for my R/T I used the Summit 6401 cam. There’s a lot better cam technology out there today, I wouldn’t be looking for a stock cam, rather choose one that works good with trans and rear gear your going to run, with high vacuum.
 
CC the heads before you go much further.

Forget stock specs..... shoot for mid-9’s CR and good quench.
Not doing so is just shooting yourself in the foot.

Unless of course the plan is to just have a garage queen.
 
PRHeads said:
CC the heads before you go much further.

Forget stock specs..... shoot for mid-9’s CR and good quench.
Not doing so is just shooting yourself in the foot.

Unless of course the plan is to just have a garage queen.
Click to expand...

The head cc's are a critical detail. Both of my 915 sets are <80 cc's. Even with 12 or 13 cc D dish piston the CR is >10:1 with a good quench. You can get there, you just need to have a good plan.
 
PRHeads said:
CC the heads before you go much further.

Forget stock specs..... shoot for mid-9’s CR and good quench.
Not doing so is just shooting yourself in the foot.

Unless of course the plan is to just have a garage queen.
Click to expand...

You need to get with a guy like PRHeads that has years of knowledge building MOPAR engines. Years of head porting with a flow bench and 100's of engines out there on pump gas.He can put the whole package together for you so you can find it on your door step.:thumbsup::lowdown::lowdown::lowdown:
 
Thank you for everyone's input. I really appreciate it. Looks to me that a stock rebuild is out of the question. I do live in a state where we can still get 91 octane gas with no ethonal in it, with no problem. That is all I run in the rest of my cars and pickups that only get driven in summer and set all winter. Ethonal does not store over the winter well. I am not looking to build a race engine. Just a reliable driver with more than enough power. I will be running the original dana 60 with 3.55 gears and 4 speed with 225/70/ 14 tires. I will have to work on ccing the heads to find out where I am at. What octane is recomended to run 10 plus compression on an engine? Can anyone recommend a good company that would be easy to work with on grinding a custom cam to fit my engine and drivetrain specs and my driving expectations?
 
Last edited:
HEMI-ITIS said:
You need to get with a guy like PRHeads that has years of knowledge building MOPAR engines. Years of head porting with a flow bench and 100's of engines out there on pump gas.He can put the whole package together for you so you can find it on your door step.:thumbsup::lowdown::lowdown::lowdown:
Click to expand...

Do you have contact info?
 
running 915 heads
just a list
Icon
IC968 6 pack flattop 2.067 Cht +4.5 cc valve relief Similar to TRW/ Sealed Power and stock
IC636 crown type step dish + 12cc 2.067
IC 822 crown type +4.5cc 2.067
IC9953 crown type +5.6cc 2.067 FHR
forged pistons CH gets deck where you want it
see if the 636 cc gets compression where you want it
KB 237 2.067 +9cc flat top
KB236 step head 2.057 Cht +6cc
check on crown height above 2.057 deck
gives 10.7 with 80 cc head
you are going to assemble with the step 30-40 from head so piston may need messaging
if so IC636 may be less expensive
and depending on what CR you want
I helped develop this piston for open chamber heads many years ago- they used to have others in KB line like the ICON 636 but seem to be gone

Dwane Porter Racing Heads- PRH on this site or google is your friend
 
Last edited:
diamond 52401 catalog page 109
2.065 ch 13 cc d dish with 7.20 deck and .040 gasket gives 9.7 with a 78 cc head
but to get quench you have to run a .028 gasket and take a few more cc's out of the head
easy to rough out on the valve machine once you scribe your bore on the heads
do not take out to the gasket
other piston vendors may have a piston that works

start with block deck 10.725

rod stock 6.768 or say rebuilt 6.760
half stroke 1.87
compression height 2.065 or 2.067
block decks 10.725
gives around 10.708
or piston down around .017 >.025 till you deck the block I always tried for 10.715 but often could not clean up at that height
so when you get you head's cc'd to the smallest chamber get your trusty compression calculator out and do some "what ifs"
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Rusty34
Question About 440 Piston Choices
2
Replies
34
Views
2K
lewtot184
lewtot184
John Hogan
340 stock cam question
2
Replies
25
Views
4K
Krooser
K
Thunderdan
Hagerty Redline Rebuild - 440 Chrysler rebuild and performance mods
Replies
6
Views
1K
RemCharger
RemCharger
Gary Stavely
67 A727-B transmission question
Replies
8
Views
1K
Gary Stavely
Gary Stavely
Charlie Brown
Understanding Cam Specs
Replies
19
Views
902
Charlie Brown
Charlie Brown
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top