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Stock stroke 440 - Scrounging for power

Yeahrightgreer

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Back to the basics. The age old question of power.

My motor is out of my 67 Satellite and checking the condition of the internals.
While it’s on a stand I thought about building a bit. For the past few months I had the idea of stroking to a 512”. While I have just enough $$$ to go through the parts, stroke kit, machine costs etc, I wouldn’t have enough to properly do all the other upgrades that come with much higher numbers. Dana 60, suspension, frame stiffening, trans etc etc. I then thought about a 6-71 blower on top of stock internals and running a very conservative amount of boost until I build the rest of the car but I’m not sure about the long term sustainability of a charger on stock internals. I am aiming for a strip/street car that will get a good amount of pounding on the streets. I don’t want to constantly be pulling the motor out in my barracks parking lot after blowing pistons because I didn’t properly regulate my boost.

Motor as it sits has 906 heads, M1 single plane Intake, 509 purple cam, 750 DP Holley, I believe it’s bored .030” over (I’ll measure the bore soon), 3 inch headers, 727, 4.10 gears. Id like good low end torque numbers and not so much high HP numbers for bragging rights. I’d be happy by getting towards an 11 second car, and with a ton of glass/lightweight parts and weight savings, capable of being 10 seconds.

Does anyone have any experience with a supercharger on a 440 on a street car? Better yet a stock one. I always hear rumors that “A guy told me that he met a guy once who’s cousin slapped a blower on his cast crank stock 440 and ran 9psi of boost for 20 years perfectly fine.” but have never actually heard any real world experience.
What type of combo set ups are a lot of you running? Where can I scrounge for power on a stoke stroke? Ditch the 906s and go for high flow Indy or Stealth heads? Cam suggestions for low end torque that will match my 4.10 gearing? I’d also like to run a tunnel ram for vintage looks but am I loosing anything over a lot of the good performing intakes like the tarantula?

This is mainly me brainstorming and trying to borrow some of y’all’s knowledge and experience where I lack it. If anyone knows any threads of stock stroke RB engine builds already please feel free to point me that way.
 
Hmm...now, I have no experience here but will offer an opinion.
Forget about the 6-71. There are better and more compact blowers on the market. They just don't have the wow factor.
If you do supercharge ya better beef up the bottom end. And this is based on my brother's experience, don't use hypereutectic pistons. He has a blown LS engine in a Vette (he bought it that way) and his mechanic said not to pound on it too much or it will crap the bed due to the pistons. It did.
As your Satty sits now you need to tie the stubs together. In fact I would do this before putting it back together. Face it that is no spring chicken.
Imo a stout bottom end is money well spent. A decent set of heads a good streetable cam and an intake and carb will give you what you're looking for.
Keep us posted on what you decide and good luck.
 
Lot of us have went fast with a 3.75 stroke. Some combinations are not fun on the street. Head's and stall converter+traction are the key for et. With a 440 went 11.6 w unported 906s and a solid(.52) lift and on the same short block changing only the cam(.630 roller)and aluminum ported mp stage VI heads went 10.30. Drivetrain tire was all the same.
Even more head yet(ported original b1) in a b plus dominator and powerglide but the exact same cam as the 10.30e.t. car went 9.85.
All with 3.75 stroke in the same car.
Good tuned tunnel ram should ad some hp maybe 30-50hp, but M1 single plane is a good intake. 750 holley is 2 small probably now. Never had a roots supercharger. They are relatively inefficient unless you spend some money on them. But awesome all the same.
For starters buy a good converter like a 9 1/2 dynamic or 9" that is tight if you want to drive it. Tight converter that flash to 4k-5k will be a huge upgrade if you have tire 2 hold it.
Cams and going fast is a land of compromise...heads will make your biggest difference. Spend your money on the converter and heads first.
A cam that made tons of torque we ran was a cam motion 261/[email protected] roller on 109 .623 lift it had a very flat power curve. I'd have to look at the dyno sheet to quote anything but it had 557hp @6100 and ran a 10.75@122 in a 440 in 3650 lb cuda. Setting your car up with stock suspension requires some learning and studying. Lol... I am still learning.
 
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so bored over .030 or whatever what's your compression distance down from the deck, what pistons?
what's your cranking compression?
906 heads in a 67? any work done on the heads? sure they are not 915?
right now pistons, if cast stock replacement, and rod bolts are the weak links
how new is your timing chain?
do tie your subframe together
stick or auto, converter, gears?
that carb is ok with those heads, they are holding back each other
what's the primary tube dia on those headers
stock rockers?
your bottom end may not be ready for more head
did you build the motor? have receipts?
while you (we) are planning on how to spend your money..
did you degree in the cam if so where
and
have you done your ignition curve
actually a blower or turbo can be a cost effective upgrade if you are good at fab
 
so bored over .030 or whatever what's your compression distance down from the deck, what pistons?
what's your cranking compression?
906 heads in a 67? any work done on the heads? sure they are not 915?
right now pistons, if cast stock replacement, and rod bolts are the weak links
how new is your timing chain?
do tie your subframe together
stick or auto, converter, gears?
that carb is ok with those heads, they are holding back each other
what's the primary tube dia on those headers
stock rockers?
your bottom end may not be ready for more head
did you build the motor? have receipts?
while you (we) are planning on how to spend your money..
did you degree in the cam if so where
and
have you done your ignition curve
actually a blower or turbo can be a cost effective upgrade if you are good at fab

All good questions. I just picked this motor up that came with the car so a lot of that is unknown and will be figuring out over this week. PO did all the previous work. Has a steel crank but as far as everything else, I think it’s fair to just assume that the entire bottom end is stock. 906 heads, don’t look ported or anything. Stock valves, springs, lifters, arms, shafts.
 
The frame actually has connectors on it already. What are some of the common weak points that the motor, driveline and suspension have stock that I should be looking into?
Tracking on the bottom end like stated.

@Slap Stick What other blowers are you thinking of? I don’t necessarily need the wow factor, and I like the compactness of something like the Vortex blowers, But golly it’s a pretty penny.
 
One brand I can think of off the top of my balding head is Kennebell. Yes, they are spendy. I think money is better spent on the engine. Have you considered nitrous?
 
Something I found myself having to re-consider after I wanted a street/strip car was how much strip would it actually see. After evaluating I came up with maybe 2x a year...So I changed up my plans a little.
A more streetable cam, good flowing heads, a street friendly converter.
You said you want power/tq down low? Get rid of the single plane intake and get a RPM. Look at the Trickflow 240s.
It was mentioned about driving 20 years with a huffer without issue, well that's subjective; how many miles, how many at a time? Element conditions? Driving habits? Ect, ect....
Have a friend here that has driven his blown Hemi a fair amount to shows with out my issues. @HEMI-ITIS would be good resource to talk to about blower motors at the strip and on the street.
 
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I'd get a set of trick flow 240 heads a roller cam hyd or solid with about 600 lift a custom ground cam use your existing intake and you should be able to run high mid 11s no problem.
I used the above with a 6 bbl and got almost 600 hp below 6k
Tim%20Borrall%20440%20078.jpg
 
Boost is a wonderfull thing!! 9.6 on pump gas @ 135+ MPH.Stock front suspension and Cak traks out back. Fair weather toy that gets around 1000 per year.
This is 6 years ago,a friend found it on you tube as I don't know the vid taker! AND,,,,,,,I was shooting ducks going down the track:lol:

 
I'd get a pair of Trick Flow 240s
a hyd or solid roller custom cam with a wider LSA
keep your intake and get a better carb
This combo should make 550-600 hp and get you in the 11s
Look for my build, Trick Flows on the 440....
 
Boost is a wonderfull thing!! 9.6 on pump gas @ 135+ MPH.Stock front suspension and Cak traks out back. Fair weather toy that gets around 1000 per year.
This is 6 years ago,a friend found it on you tube as I don't know the vid taker! AND,,,,,,,I was shooting ducks going down the track:lol:


That poor guy probably is still having nightmares about that!!!!!:wetting:
 
My buddy's GTX, pure 3000 lb racecar. 440 with TRW flat top, stock rod and crank, .557 mopar purple, a set of butchered 915 heads. 6-71 blower with 2 alcohol carbs. Shifted it at 5000 rpm. Went 5.90s in the 1/8. Next motor ported iron stage 4, blower cam, fresh 8-71, same carbs, 5.65 in the 1/8. I've had a 340 blower car for years. Ported iron head. .550 solid, 6v-71 worn out blower. 11.0@3875lbs in street trim.
Doug
 
.... What are some of the common weak points that the motor, driveline and suspension have stock that I should be looking into?

As far as stock type(weak) parts that need upgrading. You need a bolt in sprag in the transmission. It's not worth the risk of having the transmission drum explode and come through the floor if you are making power. Stock Ly rods with arp bolts need a aftermarket upgrade when you get past 550-600hp.

Occasionally affordable prochargers will come up for sale. There was a new procharger good for 900hp that was for sale for 1600 bucks(1/2 price)....just needed some time and some $ strapping it on your BB..But that particular one I doubt is available....was for sale about a month ago on the pontiac py forum.
 
Not a criticism...... but the first post is kind of all over the map.

Figure out what you really “want”, then see what that would cost..... and if it’s realistically in your budget.

A blower on a cast piston bottom end is not a good plan imo.

If what you really want isn’t in your budget, then it’s decision time.
Put something mild together and drive the car and save your money until you can afford “plan A”...... or come up with a less expensive “plan B” you can live with for a while.

Going 11’s with a 440 in a B body isn’t really hard, you just need a well thought out plan....... and then stick to it.
 
Your set up with a 100 shot of NOS should put you in the 11s. I ran a similar set up with less gear, 355s, and the purple shaft 557 solid cam and ran 12.26 and 11.70s with 100 shot. The stock forged bottom end is enough to get where you want to go.
 
Something I found myself having to re-consider after I wanted a street/strip car was how much strip would it actually see. After evaluating I came up with maybe 2x a year...So I changed up my plans a little.

That’s a great point. I say street/strip but realistically I would maybe find myself at the strip 3x a year. It would end up being more a glorified street car with maybe upwards of 3-5,000 miles a year
 
That’s a great point. I say street/strip but realistically I would maybe find myself at the strip 3x a year. It would end up being more a glorified street car with maybe upwards of 3-5,000 miles a year

Ya I started out wanting a 10 second street car but found it to cost prohibitive and keep it streetable. I can't afford a $10-15k+ motor, plus $5-7k trans. I think Ill be all in my motor for about $5-6k when its all said and done. Which should still be fun on the street and relatively reliable...and thats where Ill be spending most of my time...
 
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