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Stock vs Aftermarket Disc Brake Conversion

vektro69

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Been looking at a front disc conversion, probably keep drums in the rear. Getting a bit confused. Wilwood and other 4 piston calipers look cool, but, seem to have thinner, lighter rotors and calipers. May be great for weight savings, but, my car is a driver, cruiser, not a race car. I just want better stopping. Car already has some mods, so staying with stock look is not important. Either way will work.
Talked to Dr. Diff, and others who tell me a single 2.75 piston will stop as well, if not a tad better, than the 4 piston Wilwood, Baer...More clamping than 4 1.75 pistons. Not to mention 1 inch thick 11.75 inch rotors, compared to 3/4 inch, 10.50 rotors on the Wilwoods.
And of course, a pretty good price difference!! I'm running 15 inch Weld Prostars, so no big rotors. Is the 4 piston worth the extra money? Like all of us, there are a lot of other things I can spend money on for this car. Any advice? biomedtechguy, I think you went with the Dr?
 
If you're not racing the car and you're not putting huge power numbers to the ground, then the stock conversion is plenty adequate. Not to mention the huge saving versus an aftermarket setup. You can probably source most of the necessary parts right here on this forum.
 
I went from stock discs to Wilwood four piston with vented rotors in my 10 sec. 130 mph drag Dart. The stock brakes actually stopped faster!
The Wilwoods were much lighter and prettier, however
 
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I believe stock would be the way to go.
My 1968 GTX has the stock Bendix 4 piston calipers and factory power booster and it stops real good.
I also have a 1971 Challenger with the Kelsey Hayes single piston pin style calipers and a Hemi brake booster and it stops really well also.
The stock stuff is rebuild-able and works as good as most folk would need.
 
I have factory discs upfront drums on back and no booster. Car stops no problem.
 
Years ago I did an SSBC 4 piston setup on my E. Small enuff rotors to keep my 15" tires. Stops just fine (and this is a manual setup) and been there over 10 years without ay issues
 
My car has a bit over 500hp, but will not be drag raced, or auto crossed. (Ok, maybe a drag race or two). Mostly just a cool old car I can cruise around in. I can spend more $$ if needed to get a good braking set-up. Wilwood would have been my first choice, as they are very popular, and look cool. I thought it would be an upgrade over stock system. Just starting to think that while the Wilwoods and others may be great for racing, is it really what I need for my car?
Super bee side.jpg
 
My car has a bit over 500hp, but will not be drag raced, or auto crossed. (Ok, maybe a drag race or two). Mostly just a cool old car I can cruise around in. I can spend more $$ if needed to get a good braking set-up. Wilwood would have been my first choice, as they are very popular, and look cool. I thought it would be an upgrade over stock system. Just starting to think that while the Wilwoods and others may be great for racing, is it really what I need for my car?View attachment 882135
That is a bad *** Bee!!!
 
I've got the basic Dr Diff manual kit. No complaints in the stopping and so far, it has been a reliable conversion.
 
Leaning towards Dr. Diff. If you talk to him, he just makes sense. No need to over pay for something that won't be any better
 
Just like you can't have enough power,,,,you can't have too much brakes. Yes,it's more money but you will only do it one time!! That looks like it could go into the 9's!
I also have the SSBC manual setup and it works GREAT!
 
I've got a basic drum to disc kit from PST (Leed brakes) and they work great. Way cheaper than the Wilwood stuff and you can't see them anyway behind the Magnum 500s. You only need Wilwood if you have fancy open spoke rims or are a serious racer.
 
Would rather use brembo then wildwood
If I'm dropping that kind of coin

Stock works just fine and is the
Best budget way to go
And I can still use my 14 inch rims
If need be
Dr diff if you gotta get a kit
 
Been thinking, I like the 11.75 rotor set up from Dr. Diff, but maybe use a Wilwood master cylinder. Some hav had leak issues with the Dr.'s master. Still less than an 11 inch Wilwood system
 
Talked to Dr. Diff, and others who tell me a single 2.75 piston will stop as well, if not a tad better, than the 4 piston Wilwood, Baer...More clamping than 4 1.75 pistons.

This is correct information... only two pistons are used in a 4 piston caliper calculation, since the other two are simply the opposing force.
 
I have cars with 3 different versions of disc brakes:

1968 Hemi GTX - Wilwood 4 piston front, Wilwood 11" vented rotors, 10" rear drums, braided steel lines, no power, stock disc brake prop valve. Stops good with a strong foot.
1972 Road Runner - Stock front slider type single piston calipers, stock 11" rotors, 10" rear drums, rubber lines, no power, stock disc brake prop valve. Comparable stopping to the GTX.
1971 Roadrunner - Stock pin type single piston calipers, 11 3/4" slotted rotors, 11" rear drums, braided steel lines, power brakes, adjustable prop valve. Stops amazing well, for the money this is my recommendation.

All 3 of these have carbon metallic pads.
 
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