I have used most of the various manufacturers products, Norton, 3M, Lord/Fusor, Kent, Duramix (now owned by 3M) etc. If you are not looking for an oe restoration it is the way to go for several reasons, corrosion protection being number one. Lap shear tests that I have performed show that the adhesive out does STRSW and plug welding for strength however peel tests are a different story. Most adhesive manufacturers recommend using the adhesive in longitudinal joints and not in vertical joints, the reason being the lap shear strength is better than conventional welding/compression welding but the peel strength doesn't measure up. Most of this is based on crash testing and has shown that the longitudinal seams (bottom of rear 1/4 panel, wheelhouse, front 1/4 to rocker) stand up but the vertical seams (end panel to 1/4 and vertical 1/4 panel pinchweld seam to B/C pillar) would/could separate.
My 2 cents...we can never reproduce what Ma Mopar did in the factory unless you have a STRSW welder and new OEM panels. Plug welding to replace factory spot welds is fine, but far far from OE as it is very difficult to restore corrosion protection in a pinchweld seam. We always body fill over our dressed plug welds to hide them in a visible seam as well. SO, in some instances such as replacing a 1/4 panel you would be doing yourself and the vehicle justice to use new technology to restore your car, but use it wisely. Improperly prepared seams will not receive the adhesive and will fail...seen it before and it is a disaster. You MUST read and follow the Adhesive Manufacturers directions to a T, no exceptions or shortcuts apply here. And from my experience, even though manufacturers say it can be done, never use it under an exposed seam which will have body filler applied over it. (IE: sail panel) I have see the bonded seam reappear in the finish due to annual expansion contraction, welding is the only correct way to dress a sail panel. The bonded seam does not crack...but can appear as an outline of the seam. The same goes for bonding patches in high visibility areas (Sail panels) you may see the patch outline!
A bonded seam will ultimately outlast and out perform a welded one for two reasons...corrosion protection and strength if used correctly.
Another note is it should never be used solely to bond structural components such as frame rails!!! But could be used in conjunction with STRSW for ultimate strength and corrosion protection. The material is designed for cosmetic/light structural panels...
Cheers!
BTW, not to deflate Dantraps statement, but overclamping (to much clamping force, not too many clamps) is a mistake, you need a consistent amount of adhesive in the seam or it will peel!