Subframe connectors

[Flyboy1400]

I've been working to finish all metal and body work on my '66 Satellite, and i figured now might be a good time to look at this issue. I plan on putting a mildly built 440 into the car, and i've been considering installing subframe connecters due to the HP/TQ of the big block, so i have a couple of questions.

Do you guys have any recomendations, brands, places to get them, weld on/bolt on?

When installing them should the motor be in the car (im thinking about how the weight might effect the car) ?

During installation should the car be sitting on the ground, jacked up, on a lift, or does it matter?

Thanks!

 

[69 Runner]

What kind of HP and torque are we talking about?

 

[Flyboy1400]

I'm planning on roughly 500 HP and 550ish Torque, i haven't started on the motor yet so nothing is for sure as far as HP and Torque.

 

[69 Runner]

The bolt in's are probably the easiest to install and remove if you ever wanted to "put the car back". Otherwise you'd want to use the laser cut ones that follow the floor pan exactly. Keeps you from cutting the floors for the tube to stick up through.

 

[CtownChris]

I used chassisengineering.com
$99.50 for B body.
Very heavy solid weld in unit. No floor cutting.
Some trimming needed to match end angles.
Makes some other look kinda flimsy.

 

[696pack]

If you look at the pictures of the under side of my car here:
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=1130
you will see the U.S. Tool subframe connectors I used. These are laser cut to follow the floor pan so they look like they are factory and don't hang down below the car. Be aware that they are NOT weld-in ready. It was a 8 hour job on my car and there are inconsistences in nearly all factory floor pans, car to car, same model, same year. In my opinion they are the best connectors available and need to be welded full length both sides to the floor pan. It made my car super solid and I have next to no body flex and the car launches straight and hard. My car is a 2 door sedan and is stiffer to begin with than a hard top. So if yours IS a HT you difinately need them if you are planning to drive the car to the HP/TQ potential you are planning on. I have seen MANY Mopar B bodies with kinked "C" pillars from years of hard launches with good traction.

 

[Flyboy1400]

wow, those look really nice! When you say they are not weld-in ready, was it just a lot of trimming and fitting? or somthing else?

 

[Wagondoors]

Do you guys have any recomendations, brands, places to get them, weld on/bolt on?

Yes, go to your local steel supply company and buy some 2x3 and flat plate off the remnant rack and build your own (welded) a heck of a lot cheaper.
2x3 will require cutting the floor to fit them. Or you can use 2x2 and weld them flat to the bottom of the floor by only cutting the floor beads where they touch the tubing. Either tubing you can open the front of the rail and slide it in about 8".
I'm in the process of installing a pair on my '66 Belvedere wagon.

 

[696pack]

wow, those look really nice! When you say they are not weld-in ready, was it just a lot of trimming and fitting? or somthing else?

Yes.

 

[Wagondoors]

I think I have all of 15 bucks invested and they are ready to weld in.
I am going to drill some holes in the sides of the rail and plug weld them then add a flat plate.
Like I mentioned eariler, you can do this with 2x2 the same way but not cut the floor. I went with 2x3 to tie in a roll bar in case I add one later.
Hope this helps.

 

[vancamp]

I have the us cartool connectors on my 66 satellite im building, they required quite a bit of trimming and fitting but once done look really good.

 

[Wagondoors]

You sure that is 2X3? sure looks like 2X4

2x3 / .093

 

[Flyboy1400]

im not a huge fan of the idea of cutting the floor, and im not planning on racing the car enough to require a cage. those us car tool ones are real pretty, but are they strong enough to support a jack under them without damaging the floor?

I had my car on a frame rack platform, when it was done, to get it laser straight.

Thats not a bad idea, i can probably use the one in the body shop at school to for most of this.

 

[696pack]

im not a huge fan of the idea of cutting the floor, and im not planning on racing the car enough to require a cage. those us car tool ones are real pretty, but are they strong enough to support a jack under them without damaging the floor?


Thats not a bad idea, i can probably use the one in the body shop at school to for most of this.

Mine are, but they are welded full length down both sides to the floor pan. They are probably stronger than the original unibody frame rails.

 

[69 Runner]

If it's still in there, don't forget to pull the carpet before you start welding on the floor pan

 

[Flyboy1400]

If it's still in there, don't forget to pull the carpet before you start welding on the floor pan

good advice, but the onlything flamable on my floors are leaves and maybe that paint :grin:

 

[Wagondoors]

im not a huge fan of the idea of cutting the floor, and im not planning on racing the car enough to require a cage.

So use 2x2 and you won't need to cut the floor.

$10-$15 worth of tubing and some flat stock vs. $169 :confused:

 

[Gary67]

I have the us cartool connectors on my 66 satellite im building, they required quite a bit of trimming and fitting but once done look really good.

Same here, those US car tool ones weren't out when I did mine or I probably would have got them.

 

[CtownChris]

I still say go to www.chassisenginering.com
look up frames
subframe connectors are pre cut for your car B body etc.
$99.50
Big bar stock connectors no floor cutting.
Less labor then fabbin up your own.

 

[440brew]

I purchased Mopar Performance set from Summit. They cost $150 and are an easy install just mark the hole drill and bolt on. No floor cutting or trimming. Or you could weld them instead. Easy!