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tapered axle drums

No, they are different. I replaced early tapered-axle rearends in both my '64's with '68-'70 rearends. Easier to work on brakes, axle seals, and set axle end play. Straight bolt in.
 
No, they are different. I replaced early tapered-axle rearends in both my '64's with '68-'70 rear ends. Easier to work on brakes, axle seals, and set axle end play. Straight bolt in.
Yes that is what I have done with the pre 66 B bodies years back. I have 0ne 66 8 3/4 and 3 pre 66 cars, I plan to sell off 1 or 2 and keep that later 8 3/4 for what I keep. But meanwhile...
I am thinking the rear drum for the tapered axle the lug hole are made to be swedged to the hub and the later drums have a little larger lug hole??
 
Yes that is what I have done with the pre 66 B bodies years back. I have 0ne 66 8 3/4 and 3 pre 66 cars, I plan to sell off 1 or 2 and keep that later 8 3/4 for what I keep. But meanwhile...
I am thinking the rear drum for the tapered axle the lug hole are made to be swedged to the hub and the later drums have a little larger lug hole??

Tapered axles were 1964 and earlier.

The swedged stud holes, after removing the studs are not real uniform in shape (Not round) but could be used after separating, just like the first link I posted.

Also if you're talking about your 1962, they have the narrowest axle housing of all the B bodies. Any newer rear will be wider and the right backspace wheels might be needed.

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle/16.html

This is the link to when I removed the original drums from the front hubs. Same procedure for the rear. You can see the stud holes in the drums after removing the swedged studs.

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...p-new-residence.114133/page-12#post-910743068
 
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Car I am working on is 64 Savoy. I have yet to tackle any brake stuff on the 62 its just a roller right now.
I do have a 64 more door that the PO did that drum/hub deal and its drum just comes right off like REAL car!!!!
I have the puller on the drum and the heavy wood splitting maul, it might kill this old man yet!!! Wife said buying a 65 up 8 3/4 and some new U bolts is way cheaper than a funeral. I told her to just the neighbor over is his backhoe??
 
'62's had a little narrower rear end than a '64. '66-'67 rear end might work better there, as they are narrower than '68-'70.
 
I got one side to seem to break loose, it made a smallish POP, but it is still hating to come off! It has bought wiped me. 98 degrees and heat index of 115. But it is in the shade!
If my torch was usable I would try heating the booger. Torch just needs rebuild, leaking hose, and both tanks empty!!!!! LOL
 
'62's had a little narrower rear end than a '64. '66-'67 rear end might work better there, as they are narrower than '68-'70.

I had a '64 Polara 500, found a Dana out of a '70 and I had the same tire clearance (wide tires and rims) as with the 8 3/4, maybe a bit better. It was a 456 gear and it really woke up that 383!
 
This might help. Part number of the drum used.

http://hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html

Following the simple procedures in the link above solves the brake problem for tapered axle differentials. And it's MUCH cheaper than an axle or complete rear end swap... especially given the prices of 8 3/4 and Dana axles these days. When it comes to strength, remember that Max Wedge cars had these rear ends so unless you're going to do some serious racing there's really no reason to spend the extra money to replace them.
 
The other side popped loose from the axle pretty quick BUT LIKE said earlier, the adjusters were rusted shut and soaking 2 weeks did them no good. Once loose at the axle, it still was a bitch to get the drums off the shoes. But got 'er done!!! This car sat outside since 85 and who knows how much water could have covered those drums/hubs here in Tx, It gets wet here ever once in a while!!!!!
I have done these old Mopars since about '85 and I am used to being back in my old home state of Mo. where I could find parts easy and cheap enough. Used to be jerking out that tapered axle was the receipe, have never messed with one before.
But all I need to do is get the old lugs out of the hub and I assume order drums for a 66 up B body.
 
Actually Napa has the drums (1965 and later drums, part # ND 4401129). Take care how you remove the lugs from the axle. They are swedged and need to be cut off flush and drilled before forcing them out. If done incorrectly you will ruin the hubs. Read the article I referenced in my previous post to see how this should be done. It's pretty simple.
 
Actually Napa has the drums (1965 and later drums, part # ND 4401129). Take care how you remove the lugs from the axle. They are swedged and need to be cut off flush and drilled before forcing them out. If done incorrectly you will ruin the hubs. Read the article I referenced in my previous post to see how this should be done. It's pretty simple.
Yes, I have done it before. Really need a drill press to drill in those hard lugs!! Th thread on one of the axles got somewhat boogered as the hub came off, key way probably was the cause. That side really did not want to give. Need a die to chase threads, an idea what the thread count is, 3/4 x ???.
 
Yes, I have done it before. Really need a drill press to drill in those hard lugs!!
In post #6 I left you the link to when I drilled mine out. No drill press required. The holes in the hub are a little inconsistent plus the knurling on the new studs can be a little out of shape. Not all of the new studs that I used were tight after pressing them in. Actually tack welded them on the back side for a little added insurance.

Need a die to chase threads, an idea what the thread count is, 3/4 x ???
I've seen the specs on these somewhere. Also seen the info on this site. You might even get ahold of a thread file to straighten them out.
 
I have found 2 slightly different dia. lug studs at parts store. I have had to take weld lugs in front hub made like this on early A bodies.
 
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