This sanding is killing me

Exterior Body, Paint, Trim, Chrome

  1. Dibbons

    Dibbons Well-Known Member

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    Trying to remove the rust I found on the ceiling after removing the headliner (72 Satellite Sebring Plus). Used 80 grit for a couple of hours the first two days, which made a loud scraping sound but never got down to bare metal. Switched to 60 grit which was even louder and got down to bare metal in a small spot I concentrated on for a long time. Now I'm beat. At the same time, used some type of orange stringy/spaghetti/nylon type product on my portable drill, which seemed to polish the rust surface more that knock it off. Trying to be careful so I don't damage/affect the newly painted vehicle by heat or too by applying too much pressure.

    Now i am willing to try anything that will not heat up the metal and damage the fresh paint. Anyone tried those open mesh silicon carbide discs or the poly carbide ones? I guess I would need to find the portable angle grinder for those. Wish I could use my Dremel tool, but this is turning out to be a BIG job. Don't know how I will get all the nooks and crannies clean either. What a mess. The foto does not show the rust I found after removing the insulation. Should of done this first, before completing all the exterior bodywork and paint.
     

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  2. Brewzer67

    Brewzer67 Well-Known Member

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    What is the goal with removing the rust, just to prevent it from continuing to progress? If so, I would just knock down the bigger stuff and paint the entire "ceiling" with Rust Bullet (or a similar POR15 product). I am biased towards the Rust Bullet product as I have used it dozens of times and it has been flawless each time with no re-rust ever. The stuff dries to to hard as iron!
     
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    • Dibbons

      Dibbons Well-Known Member

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      I want to make an extremely smooth surface to attach the new insulation, don't want it falling off in the future. I guess I'm just in the mood to see the transformation from a neglected mess to a clean, shiny metal.
       
    • Brewzer67

      Brewzer67 Well-Known Member

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      If that is the goal the Rust Bullet should work really well for you. It has excellent self leveling properties. And as I said before it is super tough stuff. One project I used it for was to paint the inside of an old cement double laundry tub that I use for cleaning car parts in. It held up for 10 years and was still none the worse for wear. Unfortunately I moved and had to leave it behind.
       
    • eric383

      eric383 Well-Known Member

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      X2 on using rust encapsulator like Rust Bullet or POR15. This will seal the rust and provide a good surface before attaching the headliner. Just follow the directions.
       
    • moparmarks

      moparmarks FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      I too would use POR15 or Rust Bullet. Great stuff.
       
    • Homstead

      Homstead Well-Known Member

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      Yup,, used por15 lots and seems to work very well! Rust bullet sounds like good stuff to but have never used it so cant really say....
       
    • Randra

      Randra Well-Known Member

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      Very stupid question. But are you sure it's rust. With all of that sanding it should be gone. I wonder if it's glue you're trying to sand off. It's almost impossible to sand that junk off.
       
    • Dibbons

      Dibbons Well-Known Member

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      That's a good question re: the glue. It sure behaves like glue. However, the water is obviously red/rust colored and the stuff that remains is in pitted areas of the metal. I believe glue would be over and above the metal surface itself. Making better progress today with one of those sponge looking porous paint/rust discs on the drill.
       
    • 1967coronet

      1967coronet FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      To help cut down heat transfer through your roof to the new paint , wet a old bath towel and lay on the roof in the area your working on.
       
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      • texas69bee

        texas69bee Well-Known Member

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