Thoughts on: POR-15 epoxy, USC instead of lead(all metal) Alvin lab metal....

[Bad B-rad]

I am not a professional body/ paint guy. But I have been welding for employment and for hobby/fun for 25+ years and I have used the USC: Instead of lead, aluminum filled body filler, years ago,that being said, I do have a question, about use of some of the other products that are similar, lets say the
USC: ALL METAL/Instead of Lead, aluminum filler,
POR-15 EPOXY,(putty)
ALVIN: Lab Metal, and any other that can be suggested.

If you come across a small spot that is thin and has one or a few pin holes, total size less then a nickel, and if you were going to cut it out and weld in a new piece, the repair would end up being the size of a golf ball or larger, by the time you got into nice rust free metal to weld to.
Is there a product I can use to just fill it?
I have knocked off the rust, used POR-15 "metal prep", then used POR-15 "brush on black rust blocker" on the area, to stop it from rusting in the future.
Is there a product that works well for this situation?

I have a small spot by the rear window channel on my car I was hoping to find something to use. It will be covered by the window gasket, vinyl top, and window trim.
I would not want to use some thing trying to save a few hrs, on a thin area, only to have it cause issues very quickly, down the road.
If I knew how to do lead, I think that would be the ticket. I have tried and have not been able to master it. I would love to get the eastwood learn to lead kit for beginners, but cost and time wise, not right now.

When wife gets home I will take a few photos, and show what I am taking about.

 

[T2R9]

I have had great luck with USC All Metal for seams. For Epoxy I like SPI over POR 15, but I am sure theirs is OK, I kinda got soured on POR-15 back in the 90's. Never used the Alvin product.

If its thin there is rust behind it. Without replacing it with new metal will be problematic down the road.

 

[Bad B-rad]

I can get to both sides of it, and chemically stop the rust.
I may just bite the bullet and get the lead kit, would be a skill I would love to have.
And lead never seams to have issues, except sometimes painting it,
I am having a hard time finding the SPI epoxy.
IDK, yet

 

[slimt]

add 10 to 15% reducer. Works very well too.
Just like por 15 except you can sand this , filler after being sanded , prime over top. Just do not add any etches under neath this product.

 

[Bad B-rad]

Thanks!!

The por15 I am referring to is the epoxy putty, its a stick you cut what you need and mix, then spread into shape.

 

[slimt]

Thanks!!

The por15 is an epoxy putty, its a stick you cut what you need and mix, then spread into shape.

por 15 is a sprayable product. It has to be reduced as well. Its not a putty. Its pretty much the same as what I pictured. It dries hard

 

[Photon440]

por 15 is a sprayable product. It has to be reduced as well. Its not a putty. Its pretty much the same as what I pictured. It dries hard

It is neither. POR15 is a brand name, they make several products.

 

[T2R9]

To get SPI products just call them directly and they ship to you.
https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

 

[Bad B-rad]

por 15 is a sprayable product. It has to be reduced as well. Its not a putty. Its pretty much the same as what I pictured. It dries hard

This is what I am talking about the por -15 epoxy
https://www.jbtools.com/por-15-4903...H7J1P0MvChilpr-X35wj8h4eOx37-urQaAilDEALw_wcB

 

[snakeoil24]

Lead is still the only way to go for seams all the plastic junkies will attack me but so what! lead is pliable and when cleaned, tinned properly can not be beat by dough boy. Por 15 stay away gimmick period.

 

[70BeepBeep]

To get SPI products just call them directly and they ship to you.
https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

I love SPI Epoxy for the seams also.. There is are great posts about it over on the SPI forums.

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?forums/metalworking.14/

 

[slimt]

This is what I am talking about the por -15 epoxy
https://www.jbtools.com/por-15-4903...H7J1P0MvChilpr-X35wj8h4eOx37-urQaAilDEALw_wcB

Never used that stuff. Not sure what the end results would be like as well.

 

[Bad B-rad]

I have used POR-15 for YEARS, always works great for me.
I have used on my Challenger 20 years ago, and on my truck, on the frame, the bed, and on the rad/headlight panel, still holding up great.

I have already knocked off the rust with wire wheel on my grinder(just light stuff), and used the POR-15 "metal prep" and then the Por-15 gloss black rust preventative.
That is already done, I was just wondering about the epoxy putty MFG, by Por-15 if that was any good.

 

[70BeepBeep]

Lead is still the only way to go for seams all the plastic junkies will attack me but so what! lead is pliable and when cleaned, tinned properly can not be beat by dough boy. Por 15 stay away gimmick period.

I agree, if you are unable to patch it - or work it to very small low spots - Lead solder is the only way to go. All these aluminum fillers shrink/contract, not to mention that aluminum and steel aren't exactly compatible metals - they create galvanic corrosion. Most are just powdered aluminum mixed into a resin. All garbage. Lead solder will not crack or shrink and is permanent. Just make sure you use all the required PPE while using it and you will be good to go.

 

[Bad B-rad]

Snakeoil24, what makes you dislike the POR-15 product?
Your from NJ, I am in NY, we both have snow, and that salt/calcium chloride/ brine on our roads, that eats cars up.
I have had great results with the stuff, I find it works MUCH better when used with their "metal prep" wash first.

 

[69L48Z27]

If you have pin holes in window frames that doesn’t need full metal repair, I like to use panel bond. Use something to back the pin holes and let it flow into the low spots and then it self levels. Hard as a rock and it’s not going to pull out or lift if you get rid of the rust first.

 

[Builderguy]

Do you not want to weld it so you don't have to repaint a try to color match the repair? If you can get to both sides why not fix it with either a patch, or just build weld to fill the holes and thin spots. I agree that if the metal is aluminum foil thin then no mater power you use, you will burn thru. Using a copper backing plate will greatly help in building weld and making a repair you can grind into just about any shape. New metal using a patch, or fill the void with weld, is a permanent repair that will last. You can build weld on some very thin material, and several rounds of weld and grind, weld and grind can get you back to 18 or 16 gauge thickness. Just like this:

But you will have to prime and paint match the area of the repair and sometimes that can be more work than the repair itself. There are some unique ways to keep metal cool while working on it, but those can be hit or miss. You sound like you have the skill to weld the repair, but the body/paint work might be an issue.

To answer your question, I have tried the actual LAB METAL on several things. What I found is that it works fairly well if the repair (fill) is pretty thick, like a 1/2" or so, but when you sand it down to sheet metal thickness, it gets very brittle and cracks.

You may want to look into the various seam seals out there, some harden like a rock. Good luck

 

[Bad B-rad]

OK so here is the small hole I was thinking of trying to plug/fill with lead/ or epoxy.
Mainly because its in the coroner of rear window channel, and will be covered with gasket/vinyl top, and because I am being lazy.

 

[Bad B-rad]

The hole is in the lower pass side of rear window channel.
I can weld it, if I had to, as rear window is removed because I am replacing the 1/4 and a small part of trunk floor.
But because in my mind it will never be seen, AND its not structural , if I stop the rust it should be ok, I am just being lazy. The hole is on the side of the car with the good 1/4, so I would rather not open that can of worms unless I have to, I bet I could fill it with seam sealer, or the window sealer, but I know that would be wrong, LOL.


The panel bond idea sounds like just what I would need!!

 

[snakeoil24]

Snakeoil24, what makes you dislike the POR-15 product?
Your from NJ, I am in NY, we both have snow, and that salt/calcium chloride/ brine on our roads, that eats cars up.
I have had great results with the stuff, I find it works MUCH better when used with their "metal prep" wash first.

I will give you first hand experience i tried por 15 years ago and then met one of the original developer of the product. This guy went on his own and started a company called master coat and the product was called master series coat. He priced it at 1/2 of the price of por 15. But the real thing i fould was sherwin Williams makes a metal paint for bridges that is 2 part. Also Urethane but much higher solids. You still have to deactivate the rust. Convert to iron oxide. Urethane paints will seal out moisture and oxygen but these paints still will flake off from being applied over Rust. Sure you can grind some off but a lot is still left micro sized. Get some phosphoric acid and coat the bare metal, then paint with etch primer and over lay with the sherwin product or Imron and your good to go.