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Throttle Safety Spring?

moparnation74

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In all reality I have not given much thought to this but does make sense at relative minimal cost. Has or does anyone run a safety spring on the stock throttle linkage? It would be a smaller diameter spring around 3/8 or so...and run inside the original spring...

The main purpose is if and I say if your return spring broke at higher rpms unless your lucky you are coasting at that point with a potential failure or accident.....

If anyone does where or what spring did you use?

Sounds like very cheap insurance in my books even though highly unlikely to happen....However, I have no clue the quality of material etc. my repro factory spring is....

Thoughts?
 
I added one to mine a few months ago. I just found one that was the right diameter from my spare spring collection, cut it to length, keeping it at less tension than the main spring, but just enough to pull the throttle closed, and then bent a hook on the end.

Probably a good thing I did because last week I noticed my idle was a bit high. As I was readjusting it I noticed the main spring was off. I thought I knocked it loose during the adjustment, but now as I think about it, I suspect that was the reason for the higher idle speed.
 
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Didn't some of the newer mopars have dual springs? Maybe the trucks? Maybe use them for reference. I have a old 78 3/4 ton 400bb sitting, I'll check it the next time I'm around it.
 
I added one to mine a few months ago. I just found one that was the right diameter from my spare spring collection, cut it to length, keeping it at less tension than the main spring, but just enough to pull the throttle closed, and then bent a hook on the end.

Probably a good thing I did because last week I noticed my idle was a bit high. As I was readjusting it I noticed the main spring was off. I thought I knocked it loose during the adjustment, but now as I think about it, I suspect that was the reason for the higher idle speed. I think I may tighten the hook on the main spring.
I wish I had a spare spring collection.....I will have to check with a speed shop here...Thanks for your post because I thought others were doing this....
Didn't some of the newer mopars have dual springs? Maybe the trucks? Maybe use them for reference. I have a old 78 3/4 ton 400bb sitting, I'll check it the next time I'm around it.
You are correct I believe in the 70's they started doing this....
 
Dimensions of spring you need?
 
A hardware store should have what you need.
Good idea and thanks....we have a hardware shop that carries the stuff that the traditional stores do not...I will check it out..

Do you by chance have a ball park measure of the length for the one you have?

Thanks

Justin
 
You should also have a limiter or some kind of a stop on your driver side motor mount. If it breaks and the engine comes up enough, it will pull your throttle cable and open the throttle while at the same time pushing your pedal back at you. Ask me how I know this lol. The only options if that happens is to turn the key off or go for neutral....or push in your clutch pedal.
 
You should also have a limiter or some kind of a stop on your driver side motor mount. If it breaks and the engine comes up enough, it will pull your throttle cable and open the throttle while at the same time pushing your pedal back at you. Ask me how I know this lol. The only options if that happens is to turn the key off or go for neutral....or push in your clutch pedal.
Cranky

Do you have a picture of your fix in relation to the stop?
 
Depending on power, you can use a small cable from one of the block ears to the pad on the K frame. I've parted a couple of big Chryslers that came from the factory with them. If you're running plenty of power and have traction, use a bit larger cable. It's just a short cable with an eyelet at both ends and 1/8" diameter should be enough. You can also use a small diameter chain attached to a vacant threaded hole in the block.
 
It's about 1/2" in diameter and just shy of 2" long, coil to coil (not including the hooks).
 
stig eating popcorn.gif
 
Depending on power, you can use a small cable from one of the block ears to the pad on the K frame. I've parted a couple of big Chryslers that came from the factory with them. If you're running plenty of power and have traction, use a bit larger cable. It's just a short cable with an eyelet at both ends and 1/8" diameter should be enough. You can also use a small diameter chain attached to a vacant threaded hole in the block.
Got it...a safety strap....

thanks
 
I doubt Justin will do that as he's trying to keep it OEM. But I have heard of guys putting a bolt through the drivers side oem motor mount as a precaution, to prevent separation.
 
I doubt Justin will do that as he's trying to keep it OEM. But I have heard of guys putting a bolt through the drivers side oem motor mount as a precaution, to prevent separation.
Are we related, lol....you are correct my friend....
 
I doubt Justin will do that as he's trying to keep it OEM. But I have heard of guys putting a bolt through the drivers side oem motor mount as a precaution, to prevent separation.

Oh I know. I was just doin a little :poke:
 
Is there a outfit that specializes in carburetor springs. I've searched and found outfits that make factory correct springs for certain vehicle applications but I'm looking for a lenth and size of 9/16" x 9 to 10" with no luck. None of the universal spring kits go to that size.
 
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