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Tie rod end separator... not “pickle fork”

440 PHIXX

The Island of Misfit Mopars
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I took my front brake backing plates off for easier access to the wheel cylinder bolts. I noticed the rubber seal broken on the lower ball joint and am going to replace those and the outer tie rod ends as well. I think with it being loose, I might have an issue getting the tie rod off with the pickle fork. I need the one that is like a gear puller that the FSM shows. Does anyone have a recommendation on what tool they use? Thanks!
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Maybe a gear puller rented/borrowed from the parts store like A-Zone or O'Reilly's that you can get them from?? Good Luck
 
Maybe a gear puller rented/borrowed from the parts store like A-Zone or O'Reilly's that you can get them from?? Good Luck
Thanks for the reply! A small gear puller may work. I was just wondering if there was a specialized tool for that job. I think the FSM had a Utica PN tool. It was probably hard to find by the late 90’s. Anyone else.
 
loosen the bolt and whack it with a big hammer right here............. works every time....... it may take a couple shots, the "shock" will pop it loose.......works for ball joints too. I never used this method on the pitman arm in fear of damage to the steering box

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loosen the bolt and whack it with a big hammer right here............. works every time....... it may take a couple shots, the "shock" will pop it loose

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It’s loose, and flopping around. I’ll give it a shot. It would probably work much better if it was still bolted up! I didn’t really get a good look at it until I cleaned everything off. I should have popped it first. Thanks!
 
It’s loose, and flopping around. I’ll give it a shot. It would probably work much better if it was still bolted up! I didn’t really get a good look at it until I cleaned everything off. I should have popped it first. Thanks!

it'll work........ all bad tie rod ends are "loose" lol

we are talking about separating the taper fit, correct? you are not hitting the tie rod end, you are hitting the ouside of the seat......... hit it hard, with a big hammer........ like it stole your lunch money

been doing it this way for almost 40 years, never had it not work.......usually with less than 5 swings,
 
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I see Eastwood has a kit from Powerbuilt. Most are asking over $100 to $150. Direct from them with shipping and 6% Pa. tax is about $84. I’ll probably go with that as I want to use the kit on a ‘Cuda I’m going to do the front end on. Thanks for all help! You guys are great!:thumbsup:
 
I take 2 hammers and hit outside at the same time. Like clapping with 2 hammers.
 

eldubb440 has given you the best advise your gonna get... Do yourself a favor & take it... Pay attention to where his red arrow is pointing..​

 
it will take less than a minute, and won't cost anything

unfortunately , I do this crap for a living......... never bought a special tool for it
 

eldubb440 has given you the best advise your gonna get... Do yourself a favor & take it... Pay attention to where his red arrow is pointing..​


I was just concerned about the inner tie rod end, and damaging it. I didn’t plan on replacing the ball joints or the tie rod ends until I figured I already had the ball joint bolts out, and the ballon seal was damaged. I also believe all the front end suspension parts are factory. I bought the car from a 96 YO woman who only drove the car around her local town. Hitting it with a hammer would have been better if I didn’t already have everything loose. Good info for anyone else doing the job! :thumbsup:
 
it will take less than a minute, and won't cost anything

unfortunately , I do this crap for a living......... never bought a special tool for it
In my shop, it’s funny... it seems like if you do the same job enough, you’ll find a better way that works. In my case, I wish I had found it sooner a lot of times! :D Thanks!
 
I was just concerned about the inner tie rod end, and damaging it. I didn’t plan on replacing the ball joints or the tie rod ends until I figured I already had the ball joint bolts out, and the ballon seal was damaged. I also believe all the front end suspension parts are factory. I bought the car from a 96 YO woman who only drove the car around her local town. Hitting it with a hammer would have been better if I didn’t already have everything loose. Good info for anyone else doing the job! :thumbsup:

what are you working on anyway? you won't hurt the inner rod...... wont hurt a steering rack either as the force is directed 90 degees from the rack and not "into" it
 
I was just concerned about the inner tie rod end, and damaging it. I didn’t plan on replacing the ball joints or the tie rod ends until I figured I already had the ball joint bolts out, and the ballon seal was damaged. I also believe all the front end suspension parts are factory. I bought the car from a 96 YO woman who only drove the car around her local town. Hitting it with a hammer would have been better if I didn’t already have everything loose. Good info for anyone else doing the job! :thumbsup:
I've used this method when holding the upper control arm that was still attached to the spindle which was still attached to the lower control arm & the tie rod was still attached too.... I was able to separate all the components without any trouble... Didn't damage anything... Try it, you'll never use a pickle fork again...
 
what are you working on anyway? you won't hurt the inner rod...... wont hurt a steering rack either as the force is directed 90 degees from the rack and not "into" it
My ‘68 Satellite 383 four door daily driver. I should replace everything really, as it’s all 54 years old. But I just planned on doing the front drum brakes. I waited too long and trashed the drums, so I’m replacing those as well. It drives nice with no front end noise so I wasn’t planning on ball joints. But I remember an old time mechanic telling me years ago that the lower ball joints are the first to wear out in Mopars, and most that came in were sloppy.
 
I've used this method when holding the upper control arm that was still attached to the spindle which was still attached to the lower control arm & the tie rod was still attached too.... I was able to separate all the components without any trouble... Didn't damage anything... Try it, you'll never use a pickle fork again...
Yeah... I never was a fan of pickle forks. They do work but, seem kinda primitive!
 
Otc7503 is my favorite tool for that job, most times threads are still good afterwards.
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