Timing question

[Moose440]

I know this has been all said lol. But any advice will help. I have a 440 .040 over with forged pistons 440 source heads 2.14 intake 1.810 exhaust. My cam is a comp 564int/564exh duration 295in/307ex 110 lobe sep. it has matching springs and all that in the heads. And my compression is 10.5.1. Mallory distributor and msd ignition long tube headers and dual eddy 4 barrels 600cfm also running a wide and if you. An let me know where u think that should be. Thanks. Right now I have it at 10 degrees initial and I think it’s 35 all in I run 93 it’s running a bit rough and was thinking it needs more timing any help guys.

 

[Don Frelier]

You likely need to limit the mechanical advance try 20 degrees initial.
You can try changing it as a test after it's warm set it with a light.
Try shutting it off and starting it and possibly adjusting the mixture but you shouldn't drive it like that until you can cut down the maximum advance or it will likely ping.

 

[Moose440]

You likely need to limit the mechanical advance try 20 degrees initial.
You can try changing it as a test after it's warm set it with a light.
Try shutting it off and starting it and possibly adjusting the mixture but you shouldn't drive it like that until you can cut down the maximum advance or it will likely ping.

I read that 12 initially and 38-40 all in is where it should be 20 sounds a bit drastic.

 

[dla4567]

Common settings for big block Mopar is 18-20 initial, 34-36 all in 2500-3500.

Mine is 22 initial (max I can set it at and still start when hot), total of 38, all in around 2200.

 

[68Dart470]

38-40 is probably too much on today's fuel. 14-16 Initial & 32-34 total by 2,500 would be where I want to start on my motor. Everyone's is a little different though.

 

[Moose440]

Common settings for big block Mopar is 18-20 initial, 34-36 all in 2500-3500.

Mine is 22 initial (max I get set it at and still start when hot), total of 38, all in around 2200.

This may be a stupid question but when I adjust my initial it changes my all in so right now is 10 and 35 all in. Your saying to bump it to 18 but wouldn’t that bring my all in to 42????

 

[Master Gunner]

Yup, that's why you have to adjust the dizzy. If you put in more initial, you need to take out the same amount from your total to keep it around 34-36*. I run 16* initial, with 20* mechanical in the dizzy for a total of 36*. If you don't have a adjustable dizzy this can be kind of tough.

Mark

 

[68Dart470]

Stock style distributor requires taking the plate out and welding up the end of the slot. Putting back in and seeing what you have for advance, pulling, filing, etc. I did one with JB Weld years ago and never had a problem with it.

 

[Nate S]

I'd keep the all-in between 36-38. If you go less because of fuel you're giving up more HP to timing than you gained with compression. I wouldn't go over 38 though, no extra HP out there, just knock. After that, like the other guys said, 12-18 initial should get you pretty close, all in by 2500.

 

[Don Frelier]

12-18 initial should get you pretty close

Sorry Nate but I don't think 12 degrees initial is going to do much with his engine setup.
I think 20 would be minimum it may even benefit from a fully locked out distributor.

 

[Nate S]

Sorry Nate but I don't think 12 degrees initial is going to do much with his engine setup.
I think 20 would be minimum it may even benefit from a fully locked out distributor.

Can't disagree on the 12 after re-looking at his cam. Fully locked and he'll likely never start it. If it really had to go that way I'd go with the super slinky Mopar Performance springs that are all in at 1000-1200. If he did that, without welding he could crank at 13 and run at 38 as soon as it fired.

 

[747mopar]

I agree with these guys, 10 isn't enough. Even at 12 degrees mine was a complete dog leaving the line, at 20 degrees it felt like a completely different motor.

 

[493 Mike]

I know this has been all said lol. But any advice will help. I have a 440 .040 over with forged pistons 440 source heads 2.14 intake 1.810 exhaust. My cam is a comp 564int/564exh duration 295in/307ex 110 lobe sep. it has matching springs and all that in the heads. And my compression is 10.5.1. Mallory distributor and msd ignition long tube headers and dual eddy 4 barrels 600cfm also running a wide and if you. An let me know where u think that should be. Thanks. Right now I have it at 10 degrees initial and I think it’s 35 all in I run 93 it’s running a bit rough and was thinking it needs more timing any help guys.

What? A quick editing read will help many with better answers to their queries.
Mike

 

[Don Frelier]

Maybe a wideband O2 sensor that's what I thought?
So he might be asking what his AFR should be at idle?
If so I would say maybe 13.8

 

[dla4567]

This may be a stupid question but when I adjust my initial it changes my all in so right now is 10 and 35 all in. Your saying to bump it to 18 but wouldn’t that bring my all in to 42????

I used one of these to limit the amount of advance. I’m not familiar with the Mallory distributor.

 

[moes]

you can use a FBO plate to limit the amount of degrees in the distributor

 

[moes]

if you have a Mallory built MP distributor and its YH adjustable mechanical advance you can set it at what ever you want by just loosening the two screw and adjusting the air gap. If you do not have the adjusting tools PM me and I will measure them and you can use the closest drill bit to set the degrees needed.

https://documents.holley.com/mallory_instructions_yh_series_mechanical_advance_kit_29014.pdf

here is the adjusters needed I talked about

 

[68Dart470]

you can use a FBO plate to limit the amount of degrees in the distributor

View attachment 1103967

That's pretty cool. Never knew about that when I was running stock stuff.

 

[Moose440]

I have no idea how to adjust my vac advance Mallory on the inside of it. And yes I was also asking what air fuel I should be looking for

 

[Moose440]

if you have a Mallory built MP distributor and its YH adjustable mechanical advance you can set it at what ever you want by just loosening the two screw and adjusting the air gap. If you do not have the adjusting tools PM me and I will measure them and you can use the closest drill bit to set the degrees needed.

https://documents.holley.com/mallory_instructions_yh_series_mechanical_advance_kit_29014.pdf

here is the adjusters needed I talked about

View attachment 1104005

Yes if you could maybe walk me through it to tune that distributor it’s a unilite thanks so much.