Tips for first engine fire and break in

[TexasRoadRunner68]

I am almost done piecing together my 512, just a few more odds and ends are needed.

I had considered buying or building a run stand to test fire it outside of the car in case I have any leaks or issues. But I was watching the total seal ring channels video and they recommend breaking in the motor under load to help seal the rings, and said running it too long without load in the cylinders can cause issues.

What works for you all? Should I just send it and put it in the car?

 

[toolmanmike]

I am almost done piecing together my 512, just a few more odds and ends are needed.

I had considered buying or building a run stand to test fire it outside of the car in case I have any leaks or issues. But I was watching the total seal ring channels video and they recommend breaking in the motor under load to help seal the rings, and said running it too long without load in the cylinders can cause issues.

What works for you all? Should I just send it and put it in the car?

Break in under load in a car or on the dyno. A run stand is ok for checking for leaks but it won't break the rings in.. No real difference than running it in the car for 20 min at 2000 rpm to break in the cam. Whatever!

 

[Kern Dog]

I’ve read that after the camshaft break in, it is a good idea to take the car out on the road for a drive but to avoid idling for very long. The cam and lifters get splash lubrication from oil that gets squirted out of the rod bearings. There isn’t much oil flying around at idle.
It used to be customary to be easy on a fresh build for some specific amount of miles. Over the years I have heard conflicting opinions on that, some even go so far as to advise that you do several full throttle blasts to help the rings seat.
If you want them to run hard, you have to break them in hard.
If you have a roller camshaft, you obviously can skip a camshaft break in procedure and just drive it.
New Hemi engines are spun at the factory by an external mechanism to effectively break them in before installation.
I’ve never had an engine fail as a result of how it was treated in the first few hundred miles.
I have had camshafts and lifters fail.
One died within a couple hundred miles, the replacement for it lasted a few months.
I had a cam fail a few months after switching to a different oil.
With flat tappet engines, oil is extremely critical. You cannot use regular oil in a classic engine with stiffer valve springs without putting yourself at risk. Some additives can protect you but who knows what additives are compatible with what oil? If anyone has done extensive studies on that, I’d love to know. A reader here uses GM Oil Supplement. He has had no failures so that is worth noting.
Otherwise, you’d be wise to use oil that is specifically made for flat tappet engines. It isn’t that much more money than the regular stuff.

 

[Don Frelier]

I would install it.
Fill with water.
Prime it and leave the plugs out.
Spin it with the starter and you can set the timing.
Double check everything and prime with fuel.
Get it outside and put a box fan in front of it
Have an extinguisher and garden hose at the ready.
An extra set of eyes and hands is a good idea.

 

[1967coronet]

Only other thing I will toss in is if your not useing a roller cam please use a oem style valve springs for the break in.

 

[Ron H]

Different opinions in my five-decades, but kept to old-schoolers breaking a motor in gradually the first 500 miles as the motor will run hot-hot and if you have headers, can heat-discolor them. One builder told me he says just run it like you stole it. Stuck with old-school. Right, wrong? Antiquated? Could be. The four motors I did, broke those in tenderly. Worked for me.

One night hanging with some car buds in our rides, a kid with his girlfriend drives up in a brand-spanking new gorgeous ’71 440-Challenger with a dealer plate and sticker in the window on it. He asks if anyone wants to run. Had my ’67 GTO then, but a buddy chimed in first with his ’68 GTO, sure! Rode shotgun, did three runs; actually about 2.5. Challenger bested him on the first run, but my buddy was shifting his 4-spd against the auto in the Dodge not so well. Dodge bested GTO 2nd time, just by feet. 3rd run, about 1/3 through, Dodge pulls off to the side of the road. We pull off. Look back and can barely see his headlights from the oozing blueish smoke. Walked back to him and he’s in near panic as the Challenger was rattling bad. I looked into the nifty rally dash and the mileage was under 100-miles. Ouch. Not sure, but this was a youngster maybe 17-18 in this ride. Was way late for the mopar dealership nearby to be open, guessed his sales guy dad maybe brought that Dodge home for the night and somehow his kid might have took it out while dad was sleeping. Couldn’t believe his dad would say, sure son, take out this brandy new mega-motor Challenger for some cruising, just be careful okay!

 

[khryslerkid]

After breaking in the cam on my mild 440 I did several heat cycles, letting the engine get up to operating temp then cool completely off overnight. I changed the oil and filter, tearing the can off the filter to check the element for metal. I also removed the valve covers and cranked the engine over, with the plugs out, to check lifter rotation. (You're probably using rollers)

I'd take the car out for a drive on a good hilly road. That way you can accelerate and let off the gas numerous times. This will help set in the rings.

Good luck!

 

[HawkRod]

The major suggestion I have relates to the cam.

If you have a flat tappet cam, for gosh sakes put some shitty, old, worn out springs in it to break it in. If your new springs have 300# pressure you will almost definitely wipe the cam. Spend the time to protect yourself from another tear down. Of course, this is null and void if you have a roller can - it will be fine.

Yes, rings seat better under load than on a run stand, but I prefer to break the cam in on a run stand (or in the car without it moving) for the first 30 minutes or so. A run stand makes it easier to check for oil leaks or other issues. Once that is done, then go break it in under load to really help the rings seat. By the way, this all assumes that your block was honed with modern day finish hones. If it was done "old school" style, then the bore finish will be rough and break in will take longer.

 

[6PKRTSE]

The major suggestion I have relates to the cam.

If you have a flat tappet cam, for gosh sakes put some shitty, old, worn out springs in it to break it in. If your new springs have 300# pressure you will almost definitely wipe the cam. Spend the time to protect yourself from another tear down. Of course, this is null and void if you have a roller can - it will be fine.

Yes, rings seat better under load than on a run stand, but I prefer to break the cam in on a run stand (or in the car without it moving) for the first 30 minutes or so. A run stand makes it easier to check for oil leaks or other issues. Once that is done, then go break it in under load to really help the rings seat. By the way, this all assumes that your block was honed with modern day finish hones. If it was done "old school" style, then the bore finish will be rough and break in will take longer.

I always break my hyd flat tappet engines in on the outer springs only. Prime prior to rolling over with starter. As mentioned previously, crank without plugs to get timing close, get fuel to carb, checking for fuel, oil, coolant leaks. Run at 2500 rpm for 20-30 mins. Let cool off. Remove outer springs and add inner/damper springs. Put back together and drive as normal.
Change oil after 500 miles. Cut filter open just to check to make sure everything is fine. I currently have over 65,000 miles on one of the last engines.

 

[R413]

If you assemble it right then put it in the car. Don't use oil additives, buy the right oil for the job. Break in oil with zinc already in it.

Break in the cam. Take it out for a drive while it's all warmed up. Make it work, put a load on it, but don't over rev it.

 

[451Mopar]

I am almost done piecing together my 512, just a few more odds and ends are needed.

I had considered buying or building a run stand to test fire it outside of the car in case I have any leaks or issues. But I was watching the total seal ring channels video and they recommend breaking in the motor under load to help seal the rings, and said running it too long without load in the cylinders can cause issues.

What works for you all? Should I just send it and put it in the car?

I wouldn't worry about it if your running 1/16" or thicker rings.
I though about making a run stand too. finding a leaking rear main seal with the engine in the car is not fun.