To Weld or Not To Weld

[Ranger16]

I have a wheel stud that just spins in the hub flange. I was going to use my MIG to tack weld a spot on the stud head to keep it from spinning (shouldn't take much). After pulling and cleaning it, it appears to be cast with the wheel face machined. Being an amateur welder I seem to recall cast iron as not weldable, or at least not easily, so I drove each stud out just a bit and put a few drops of red (high strength) Permatex thread locker under the head and drove it back in. Hoping this will keep the stud from spinning, but in the event it fails, can I tack weld the stud head to the hub flange? I would do all 5 for balance purposes. Keep in mind all I need is to prevent the stud from spinning when I tighten the lugs. The alternative would be to replace the hubs.

 

[tnfastback]

I had a friend that used JB weld for the same problem and never had a problem.

 

[Cranky]

I weld mine. I assume this is on the front? If so, it's not cast and is easily welded. Welding all five is good but just doing one isn't going to affect balance unless you're see 200 mph!

 

[BeeKool]

The only way to weld cast is with specific rod. Nickel I believe, standard 6011, 6013, 0r 7018 won't do I'm not if there is any wire that can weld cast. I know my Argon shielded Lincoln won't do it.
Not sure if it can be brazed.
What you did with red loctite is probably sufficient

 

[Ranger16]

I weld mine. I assume this is on the front? If so, it's not cast and is easily welded. Welding all five is good but just doing one isn't going to affect balance unless you're see 200 mph!

Yes, it is the fronts Cranky. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
JB Weld was another consideration, but if weldable, I think I'll just tack 'em if the thread locker doesn't work. JB Weld may no longer be an option with the thread locker in there.

 

[brian6pac]

If you use threadloc or loctite use the red #277, they make red in a lot of #s
271 is the standard, up to 277 that is for 1" bolts and larger and is for larger gaps, that will hold it.

 

[Ranger16]

I used Item #27100.
"OEM specified. High strength threadlocker for heavy-duty applications 3/8 inch to 1 inch (10mm to 25mm). Especially well-suited for permanently locking studs and press fits. Adds 3,000 PSI holding power on slip and press fit assemblies. Replaces set screws and snap rings. Locks against vibration loosening. May require heat or special tools for removal. Conforms to ASTM D5363 AN0221 (Mil-S- 46163A, Type I, Grade K)." - See more at: https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/threadlockers/permatex-high-strength-threadlocker-red-2/#sthash.rmFuoYPP.dpuf

When I did it, the stud was loose enough to spin with my fingers. Not so anymore. Gonna let it set up till late tomorrow or Monday. Will advise.

 

[Homstead]

Could you drill them out and use another wheel stud with a larger diameter?

 

[brian6pac]

I would take it apart and clean it out, 27100 is the same as 271 the old # and it good for gaps but the 277 swells a lot more and holds tighter. The problem is not holding it so you can tighten it, it's down the road when you try to take the wheel off and the stud spins and you have to cut off the nut!

 

[khryslerkid]

Stack some washers on the stud and tighten it up with a nut. Then weld it on the back side, two or three stitches. The hub is cast steel, you'll be fine.

 

[Photon440]

After pulling and cleaning it, it appears to be cast with the wheel face machined. Being an amateur welder I seem to recall cast iron as not weldable

Cast iron, not so easy. But if it is cast steel, then it's perfectly weldable without worry.

 

[WP29440SE]

Weld it up and be done with it

 

[ws23jrt]

Could you drill them out and use another wheel stud with a larger diameter?

No need to drill them out if they already spin.
The deal here (as I see it) is to save what we have to get more life out of it. (the bores for the studs are messed up).
These studs are a press fit to begin with and that press fit works so one does not have to back up with a wrench to remove a wheel.
Going to an over size stud would work fine but there are conditions that need to be met for it to do the same thing as the locktite and/or tack welding as mentioned.--Same result.

 

[not so famous bob]

Stack some washers on the stud and tighten it up with a nut. Then weld it on the back side, two or three stitches. The hub is cast steel, you'll be fine.

---------------------------------------------this

 

[Cranky]

If I'm going to weld the studs, I like to do it this way. Take the hub off the car and mount a good steel wheel on the hub using all the lug nuts. This ensures that all the studs are straight and centered. Stuff a rag or use into the hub or use something else to prevent weld spatter from getting into it.

 

[dvw]

Many knurled sizes available. Take it down to a good auto parts and see what they have. I've welded them as well. Just a small tack is enough.
Doug

 

[747mopar]

Many knurled sizes available. Take it down to a good auto parts and see what they have. I've welded them as well. Just a small tack is enough.
Doug

Yeap, there's a wide variety of studs out there and I'd bet you could find one that would fit even if it took a slight clean up. I'd prefer this route personally but that's just me.

Cranky's instructions ^^^ is how I'd go about welding them if you go that route.

 

[Ranger16]

Well, the Permatex 27100 Threadlocker seems to have done the trick. I put it back together and was able to torque the wheels with no stud spin. Passengers side is setting up now, though it really wasn't needed on that side. If any fail in the future they'll get tack welded. Thanks for all the comments guys.

 

[ckessel]

If you are not comfortable with the welding, see if you can find a stud that has a larger diameter knurl area.

 

[moper]

You can stake the holes too. Drive them out, take a punch, and put punch marks all around the stud holes about .030" out from the edge of the hole. This pushes the iron out and tightens the bore near the head of the stud. Then coat them with red locktite and drive them back in.
Hubs are cast grey iron and welds may or may not hold depending on the heat used unless you use the right rod or filler material.