Torker Manifold

blk/wht 69 RR

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Hey everybody...I'm pulling the 440 this weekend to do some cleaning up and painting. Have any of you ever pulled your motor using a carb plate on an aluminum intake?? I have the transmission off already, so it will only be the weight of the motor. I have always removed the intake first and hooked up to the heads. I just don't want to damage the intake.

Thanks in advance
Mike
 

#41

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Hey everybody...I'm pulling the 440 this weekend to do some cleaning up and painting. Have any of you ever pulled your motor using a carb plate on an aluminum intake?? I have the transmission off already, so it will only be the weight of the motor. I have always removed the intake first and hooked up to the heads. I just don't want to damage the intake.

Thanks in advance
Mike

Even though it's probably ok, I've never been comfortable with that given it is aluminum and small diameter bolts. It's not damaging the intake I worry about though... its dropping it on the fender or a person. I have used a carb plate many times just to pick and move fully dressed engines.... just not for an install where failure could be really costly. It's not that much more work to pick from the head bosses or the intake bolts into the heads. Worth the insurance.
 

furyus

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I don't trust them either. Plus, I use one of those engine lift levelers. They work great. I see car show guys struggling with getting the correct angle for lining things up, and i wonder why, when these levelers do a good job.
 

topside

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I've used a carb plate several times, but sometimes use one of those angle-adjustable thingies; mine attaches to the heads because of its length & crank handle.
I do get paranoid when installing in a nice car.
One of these days maybe I'll do one from the bottom.
 

blk/wht 69 RR

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Thank you for your responding. I think I will hook up to the heads. Nice to get conformation of what I was thinking.
 

beanhead

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Hey everybody...I'm pulling the 440 this weekend to do some cleaning up and painting. Have any of you ever pulled your motor using a carb plate on an aluminum intake?? I have the transmission off already, so it will only be the weight of the motor. I have always removed the intake first and hooked up to the heads. I just don't want to damage the intake.

Thanks in advance
Mike
If I'm being too lazy to remove the intake first I just use the two 3/8" holes (one on each head) where the engine-to-firewall strap and battery (-) bolt on and yank that sumbitch outta there. I never use the carb pad (especially with an aluminum manifold) since B/RB is one of the easiest intake removals known to gearheadkind...
 

69Bee

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I do it all of the time without worrying about it. Estimate a BB Mopar at 750lbs divided by 4 bolts means that each bolt supports 187.5lbs. A grade 8 5/16x18 bolt has a clamp load (75% of Proof Load) of 4725 lb/ft. A 1" bolt will support 4725 lb/12" is 393.75lbs. It ain't gonna break...
 
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beanhead

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I do it all of the time without worrying about it. Estimate a BB Mopar at 750lbs divided by 4 bolts means that each bolt supports 187.5lbs. A grade 8 5/16x18 bolt has a clamp load (75% of Proof Load) of 4725 lb/ft. It ain't gonna break...
Lifting from the pad is fine too, been done forever. I just personally prefer to use two big bolts instead of four smaller ones, for no other reason than speed...High-speed low-drag baby! Jerk that thing outta there! She gotta go!:D:D:D
 

pnora

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Thats all I ever use is a plate. As long as your studs or bolts are going deep enough it is never going to break. I have done it motor and transmission together for 50 years. Chains are a pain.
 

#41

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I do it all of the time without worrying about it. Estimate a BB Mopar at 750lbs divided by 4 bolts means that each bolt supports 187.5lbs. A grade 8 5/16x18 bolt has a clamp load (75% of Proof Load) of 4725 lb/ft. A 1" bolt will support 4725 lb/12" is 393.75lbs. It ain't gonna break...

It looks like you spent some time on this, but the threads in the aluminum or the aluminum itself will fail long, long before a grade 8 bolt. Also, typically, a person would want to apply a factor for the likelihood of uneven loading on the bolts. This depends on how daring of an engineer/mathematician you might be..... but engineer's who design bolted connections don't typically skimp on safety factors. Also, I'm not sure if you can count on 1 inch of thread engagement? It may depend somewhat on the manifold used I suppose.... I think carb stud kits are typically 3/4 inch long.

Of course, you can count on the threads in the intake begin pristine because the last guy didn't over-tighten the carb bolts ...... that never happens!

As simple as it is to lift and engine from larger diameter iron holes with long thread engagement, there is no reason not too...... but we all have our own tolerances for risk.
 

Kern Dog

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Even though it's probably ok, I've never been comfortable with that given it is aluminum and small diameter bolts.
1 doubt.jpg

I don't trust them either.
1 HHuh.jpg

Last Summer at the Kern Dog shop.....


383 106.JPG



383 107.JPG


No problem......

383 108.JPG
 

moparedtn

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If I'm being too lazy to remove the intake first I just use the two 3/8" holes (one on each head) where the engine-to-firewall strap and battery (-) bolt on and yank that sumbitch outta there. I never use the carb pad (especially with an aluminum manifold) since B/RB is one of the easiest intake removals known to gearheadkind...
Those are the exact two holes I've always used also.
I'm sure the intake would be fine, I'm just not comfortable with it - with my luck, I'd mess up a carb mount or something.
 

BSB67

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I love the internet.
 

WileERobby

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Rule of thumb is, use whatever hole is the easiest as long as it's clean. Insert your bolt as far as you can, make sure the hole is snug and tight. Consider using protection to prevent fluids from going on any unintended area. Once your engine is out, you'll have a smile on your face for a job well done !
 

beanhead

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Rule of thumb is, use whatever hole is the easiest as long as it's clean. Insert your bolt as far as you can, make sure the hole is snug and tight. Consider using protection to prevent fluids from going on any unintended area. Once your engine is out, you'll have a smile on your face for a job well done !
20425560-420983117.jpg
 

pnora

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Here is one for the anti-platers. I have more money hanging off this plate than what some peoples houses cost.

100_0381.JPG
 

Kern Dog

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Rule of thumb is, use whatever hole is the easiest as long as it's clean... Consider using protection.... you'll have a smile on your face for a job well done !
1 laugh.jpg
 

moparedtn

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The anti-platers are not going to like you.
I'm not "anti-" anything here. I don't care if anyone else uses them, I'm just not going to.
I freely admit to being overly-cautious here - on the other hand, I've never broken anything
doing in/outs even while using some seriously sketchy hoists in the past either.
 
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