Torque converter rubs

[Huicho417]

I finally got around to finish cleaning and resealing the 727 tf on my coronet. I bent the flexplate in the process of rebuilding the engine so I purchased a new one along with a torque converter. I installed it earlier today and it all went ok, mainly because I use a proper transmission jack. Right as I was putting my tools away I crept under the car to spin the torque converter and noticed it would rub the bell housing every now and then along the bottom. I followed the service manual when inserting the tc into the transmission and had the 1/2” gap from face off bell housing to tc lugs where the bolts go. From flexplate to torque converter I have a little under 1/4” gap, which means the tc will pull forward to mate with the flexplate. I
Have not bolted the tc to flexplate yet. When I do will that possibly eliminate the slight rubbing of tc along bottom of bell housing?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

It will... But are you aware the torque convertor only bolts to the flex plate one way..... One bolt hole is offset... If you get it wrong it's easy to cross thread a convertor bolt...

Hopefully your convertor has a drain plug... If it does the drain plug goes 180 degrees opposite the reference hole in the flex plate...

 

[66Satellite47]

Be sure line up the converter bolts ahead of time to account for the offset lug. When I have it correctly lined up I paint the converter an the flex plate so I can be be sure of the alignment in the future. If you haven't bolted the flex plate tight the converter can drop a bit, maybe enough to rub. Even when tightened there is very little clearance.

 

[Huicho417]

Great, thank you for the responses. Yes, my converter has a drain plug and I too saw the service manual shows an image to make sure the small hole in the plate is 180 to the tc drain plug. In anticipation of this when I torqued the flexplate I turned it to have the small hole at the bottom. Later today when I bolt them together I will make sure the tc drain plug is on top or 180 to it. Glad to hear I can finish the installation.

 

[69 GeeTeeX]

When converter is bolted to flex plate it usually raises the converter up just enough to clear bell housing.

It’s probably sitting lower because the input shaft won’t fully support the weight of the torque converter.

 

[Huicho417]

You are correct 69 GeeTeex, I finished bolting the tc to flexplate last week and have driven the car randomly. Absolutely no sound coming from that area anymore, and even better there is zero fluid leaking out from the transmission. Most of the day Saturday I drove it around the streets and it ran great. My next focus is on the steering system. I have a lot of play on the steering wheel and just ordered a sway bar. On Sunday I got brave and took it the highway, accelerated to about 65 without any issues. Although I know know what a three speed transmission with no overdrive feels like. Halfway back it felt like it would not shift to second so I drove carefully. I did not adjust the kickdown/throttle linkage after I reinstalled the transmission. I am hoping this will solve it.

 

[66Satellite47]

It's extremely important to get the kickdown/throttle linkage set correctly. Improper adjustment can result in a quick trans failure.

 

[Moms68]

It's extremely important to get the kickdown/throttle linkage set correctly. Improper adjustment can result in a quick trans failure.

I've watched several videos and read posts on the kickdown linkage adjustment, and from what I gathered the goal is to have the trans kickdown lever wide open along with the throttle. Is there more to it than that?

 

[AR67GTX]

More or less - just be sure the throttle is hard against its wide open stop with slight play in the kickdown lever so it doesn’t bottom first. After that it’s mostly a matter of having the correct kickdown rods, levers, etc for your car. Do you have a Mopar Carter carb?

 

[Huicho417]

I actually changed from the original 2 barrel to an Edelbrock 4 barrel. I did purchase the extension for the rod and carburetor bracket recommended for mopar linkage. Also when I first tried to install everything I found out i needed a new longer throttle cable with extended bracket from a 340/360 that mounts on the intake. My original one put my throttle cable about 1" short.

Last night I set up the linkage per the service manual by adjusting the lower rod and carb rod. It seemed like it was a little more responsive when i would push the linkage back. However if i push the linkage all the way back then push on the carb throttle the carb stud will not make contact with rear of the rod slot. Not sure if its because i may need a second person to press on the pedal. Rather than just me pushing the throttle back.

The only piece still original to the linkage that may be affecting this is the rod with the slot opening that slips over the carb stud. I have seen pictures of a different rod that actually angles out towards the driver side to be aligned with the edge of the carb stud. Very hard to find though.

 

[Kilrbee]

When converter is bolted to flex plate it usually raises the converter up just enough to clear bell housing.

It’s probably sitting lower because the input shaft won’t fully support the weight of the torque converter.

The input shaft should not be supporting the converter. The bushing in the pump is supposed to support the converter if it is fully seated in the pump.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

The input shaft should not be supporting the converter. The bushing in the pump is supposed to support the converter if it is fully seated in the pump.

No, the front bushing locates and holds alignment of the torque convertor... The flex plate and crankshaft support the convertor...

 

[Kilrbee]

Yes when installed, but the situation in question was with the components not installed.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Yes when installed, but the situation in question was with the components not installed.

Which is why the convertor rubbed because it wasn't supported.... We're on the same page, just a different paragraph...