Torque Converter Seated?

[Virg464]

Looking for some expert advise. I haven't done a torque converter install in many years, especially on a mopar 727. So, I have no idea if my new converter is fully seated or not. It feels like it is to me, it feels to be driving the pump after the last drop into place, and the fluid squirting out an open port on the side of the trans. I ran an inspection mirror down behind the converter and there's still about an 1" of the machined converter shaft visible above the trans seal? The converter mount pads for the flex-plate are flush with the mounting surface of the trans (see pics). Does this all sound normal, or am I missing something? Thanks in advance.

 

[Isaiah Estrada]

It should be seated farther into the trans. It takes some coercing and playing around but it will go in! You should hear 2 clicks.

 

[ruffcut]

Not in all the way yet. Probably never said that before! ruffcut

 

[zyzzyx]

So, use your straight-edge and take the same type of measurement from the face of the flex-plate to the bolting
face of the block. You should end up with 1/8" to 3/16".

 

[Gus chiggins]

Not in all the way yet. Probably never said that before! ruffcut

That's what she said....Micheal Scott.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Out of service manual.

 

[Virg464]

Thanks everyone, something was telling that it wasn't right. Glad I asked.

 

[khryslerkid]

With the weight of the converter on the pump like you have it, it may not let it drop in. You have to take a little weight off of it, turn it a little then let it drop down until the dogs line up.

 

[Dave6T4]

I use a small thin screw driver between the torque converter seal and reaction shaft to turn the pump drive lugs to 6:00 and 12:00. This way, the pump gears are centred in the eccentric housing, and the torque converter should engage easier. You should feel converter engage input shaft, reaction shaft, and pump drive. In my very early days, I once cracked a case by trying to bolt up a transmission without having the converter fully seated. Expensive lesson.

 

[khryslerkid]

And make yourself some sort of bracket to hold it in place until you get it close to bolting the trans up. They like to fall right back out if you're not careful.

 

[Outsider]

If it doesn't go in far enough, you may need to have the pump housing machined for clearance. Some race convertors need the pump cut on a lathe for clearance; my last convertor needed this clearance, and my old friend Pat Blais took care of me. You can tell if you put the convertor in and rotate it around by hand a few times, pull it out and check for paint rubbing on the round part of the shell of the convertor. B&M and some old DC info have the details on where and how much to cut.

 

[Fran Blacker]

My 66 pump housing is machined to fit the stock hemi convertor.

 

[Gus chiggins]

I use a small thin screw driver between the torque converter seal and reaction shaft to turn the pump drive lugs to 6:00 and 12:00. This way, the pump gears are centred in the eccentric housing, and the torque converter should engage easier. You should feel converter engage input shaft, reaction shaft, and pump drive. In my very early days, I once cracked a case by trying to bolt up a transmission without having the converter fully seated. Expensive lesson.

Yep, Keith Long of 727 specialist advised me of the samething. The TQ dropped right in.

 

[66Satellite47]

Virg464, the pic shows a convertor that is not all the way in. Most times it takes numerous attempts to get the slots engaged in pump drive lugs. I pull the convertor back slightly, rotate it a bit and push again, it may take many tries.

 

[LowBikeMike]

Hold the convertor by the snout with one hand, centering in the bell housing, use the other hand to turn convertor back and forth and it'll slide right in.

 

[66Satellite47]

If you start with the convertor lugs either vertical or horizontal, it makes it a lot easier. Then you can put the convertor slots in nearly the right location.

 

[Virg464]

I use a small thin screw driver between the torque converter seal and reaction shaft to turn the pump drive lugs to 6:00 and 12:00. This way, the pump gears are centred in the eccentric housing, and the torque converter should engage easier. You should feel converter engage input shaft, reaction shaft, and pump drive. In my very early days, I once cracked a case by trying to bolt up a transmission without having the converter fully seated. Expensive lesson.

I will try to line up the pump drive lugs like you say, sounds like a good idea since you know where they are located once you do that.

 

[Virg464]

And make yourself some sort of bracket to hold it in place until you get it close to bolting the trans up. They like to fall right back out if you're not careful.
View attachment 1347340

Will do. Thx.

 

[Virg464]

OK, I've tried everything and it just won't set down the last 3/4"(apprx). So, I'm wondering if there were two different sizes (dia) for the 24 spline input shaft, maybe a heavy duty 6pak or hemi part? Going to contact FTI and ask them about the converter as well, frustrating to have a $800 converter and it just don't want to cooperate

 

[RemCharger]

Do you have an old one to put it beside?
The 66 and down have a different spline.
What year is the Trans?
Count the splines on the input shaft.