Torque spec for Disc brake spindle?

[Rck68]

guys, do you know the torque spec for the front axle nut? I just converted to disc brakes on my 68 charger.

Thanks so much for the help!

 

[Demonic]

For the original Bendix discs, the FSM says 90 inch/pounds, then back off one slot to line up the Kotter pin. End play between zero and .003". You didn't say what sort of discs.

 

[Don Frelier]

I don't think the brake matters he's setting the bearing to race space.

 

[Demonic]

I don't have a 73 and up book , I thought the spec might be different for the other spindles.

 

[Rck68]

They are power disc brakes slotted rotors w the internal and external bearings. Got the system from pirate jacks. Got the spacer and the nut on, but only at finger strength rn. Should I torque to 90 or higher even?

 

[Demonic]

I wouldn't go higher than 90 inch/pounds. The smaller A body spec is 70 in/lbs. Similar procedure for all cars, tighten to spec and back off slightly.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1969_Charger_Coronet_Dart_Service_Manual.zip

 

[Rck68]

I wouldn't go higher than 90 inch/pounds. The smaller A body spec is 70 in/lbs. Similar procedure for all cars, tighten to spec and back off slightly.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1969_Charger_Coronet_Dart_Service_Manual.zip

Ok thank you so much, I’ve been seeing upwards of 160 to even 190 for certain cars. But couldn’t find anything on b bodies. This is again for a 68 charger. Want to get it right first time

 

[gkent]

The spec would differ based on the size of the bearings - the bigger the bearings the more torque to seat them. Likewise tape wil also factor in. That said, I have NEVER seen a shop mechanic use a torque wrench on those. They basically tighten till there's no slop then back off a notch.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Ok thank you so much, I’ve been seeing upwards of 160 to even 190 for certain cars. But couldn’t find anything on b bodies. This is again for a 68 charger. Want to get it right first time

View attachment 929563

Just to make sure 90 inch pounds is 7.5 foot pounds... your 160 or even 190 is likely a modern vehicle an is foot pounds... Because the bearings are a completely different design... On a modern car all your doing is clamping a fixed bearing cartridge to the spindle... On vintage stuff you are actually adjusting the bearing... Don't crank down on it or you'll destroy the bearings...

 

[themechanic]

 

[Rck68]

Just to make sure 90 inch pounds is 7.5 foot pounds... your 160 or even 190 is likely a modern vehicle an is foot pounds... Because the bearings are a completely different design... On a modern car all your doing is clamping a fixed bearing cartridge to the spindle... On vintage stuff you are actually adjusting the bearing... Don't crank down on it or you'll destroy the bearings...

Yes thank you I set it at 7.5 foot lbs, just snug!

 

[YY1]

Search for our other threads on front wheel bearing adjustment.

This is more art than science.

Too tight will destroy.

Too loose will also destroy.

Setting to "book spec" or any specific torque is no guarantee.

 

[Rck68]

Yep got it thank you!

 

[khryslerkid]

This is a "rolling" torque. You turn the rotor/hub while you apply the 90 inch lbs. of torque. Doing this sets the rollers where they need to be in the races and sets the preload.

If you torque a taypered roller bearing without rotating them it could result in not having the correct preload and or cause damage to the bearing and race.

This is a video I made doing front wheel bearings and I did a little experiment on torqueing the bearings. Skip to the 7:20 mark...

 

[Rck68]

This is a "rolling" torque. You turn the rotor/hub while you apply the 90 inch lbs. of torque. Doing this sets the rollers where they need to be in the races and sets the preload.

If you torque a taypered roller bearing without rotating them it could result in not having the correct preload and or cause damage to the bearing and race.

This is a video I made doing front wheel bearings and I did a little experiment on torqueing the bearings. Skip to the 7:20 mark...

Excellent vid thank you!

 

[Kern Dog]

Just to make sure 90 inch pounds is 7.5 foot pounds... your 160 or even 190 is likely a modern vehicle an is foot pounds... Because the bearings are a completely different design... On a modern car all your doing is clamping a fixed bearing cartridge to the spindle... On vintage stuff you are actually adjusting the bearing... Don't crank down on it or you'll destroy the bearings...

Funny thing you reminded me of...
I never use a torque wrench on front wheel bearings. I've always tightened them until they feel right, spin the rotor...tighten a bit or loosen, etc. I have never had one fail. It isn't scientific but it works for me.
A buddy of mine though....
He went through TWO sets of wheel bearings, blaming their failure on Chinese parts he got from Magnum Farce suspension.
I'd never set out to defend those idiots but this buddy of mine was complaining about how he followed the instructions and torqued them to spec.
Me: " You actually torqued them? To what spec ?"
Him: "90 ft/lbs"
Me: "WTF ??? That is not right, man...."
I got my 1970 Charger manual and showed him that it was INCH lbs.
The look on his face was funny as heck.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Funny thing you reminded me of...
I never use a torque wrench on front wheel bearings. I've always tightened them until they feel right, spin the rotor...tighten a bit or loosen, etc. I have never had one fail. It isn't scientific but it works for me.
A buddy of mine though....
He went through TWO sets of wheel bearings, blaming their failure on Chinese parts he got from Magnum Farce suspension.
I'd never set out to defend those idiots but this buddy of mine was complaining about how he followed the instructions and torqued them to spec.
Me: " You actually torqued them? To what spec ?"
Him: "90 ft/lbs"
Me: "WTF ??? That is not right, man...."
I got my 1970 Charger manual and showed him that it was INCH lbs.
The look on his face was funny as heck.

I never use a torque wrench either, I use channel locks... Been doing it that way for over forty years & never had a failure.. Must be doing something right..

 

[Rck68]

Funny thing you reminded me of...
I never use a torque wrench on front wheel bearings. I've always tightened them until they feel right, spin the rotor...tighten a bit or loosen, etc. I have never had one fail. It isn't scientific but it works for me.
A buddy of mine though....
He went through TWO sets of wheel bearings, blaming their failure on Chinese parts he got from Magnum Farce suspension.
I'd never set out to defend those idiots but this buddy of mine was complaining about how he followed the instructions and torqued them to spec.
Me: " You actually torqued them? To what spec ?"
Him: "90 ft/lbs"
Me: "WTF ??? That is not right, man...."
I got my 1970 Charger manual and showed him that it was INCH lbs.
The look on his face was funny as heck.

Lol yea as soon as you said the spec, I immediately converted to inch pounds. I’m like yea 7.5 foot pounds makes more sense

 

[toolmanmike]

I'm with the rest if you guys, never used a torque wrench for the spindle nuts. Spin the rotor and torque the nut untll you have a slight drag. Back the nut off a flat and pull in and out on the rotor or hub. If it's loose, tighten it up a flat and try again. There should be a slight preload, not loose, not tight.

 

[themechanic]

I'm with the rest if you guys, never used a torque wrench for the spindle nuts. Spin the rotor and torque the nut tull you have a slight drag. Back the nut off a flat and pull in and out on the rotor or hub. If it's loose, tighten it up a flat and try again. There should be a slight preload, not loose, not tight.

The Goldilocks Zone.