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Torque Spec for Tapered Axle ???

clode85ca

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Hello, I can't find anywhere the torque spec for tapered axle (flange and castle nut) for my 1964 Belvedere

The only spec I have find is 35 for flange nuts and 45 for Castle nut... ?

Thank You
 
Are you talking about adjusting the nut on a tapered bearing? If so, no torque spec. Tighten the nut until the bearing just begins to bind (seats the bearing), then back off about a quarter turn. Voila, adjusted. Be sure you pack the bearing well before doing this.
 
this is out of a '64 manual.

TORQUE REFERENCE
(Foot-Pound)
Axle Shaft Nuts 145 (min.)
Brake Support Plate to Housing Mounting Bolts Nuts 30 to 35
Differential Bearing Cap Bolts. . . . . . .
, ... 90
Differential Carrier to Axle Housing Bolt Nuts. 45
Rear Axle Drive Gear to Case Bolts 60
Rear Axle Drive Pinion Companion Flange Nut 240 (min.)
Spring Clip (U-Bolts) Nuts 50
 
If you are referring to the castle nut on the end of the axle that holds the hub on, make sure that you torque it to at least 145 ft lbs like the manual says, especially if you are going to be running it hard. The torque creates an interference fit so that the hub can't spin on the axle and break the key or the keyway in the axle or hub. I've seen articles suggesting putting anti-seize or some lube on the axles where the hub mounts to make them easier to remove next time. I personally don't think that this is a good idea as it kind of defeats the purpose of the interference fit JMHO.
 
Thank you Moparsmitty and Glenwood......
I believe that is what clode85ca is referring to.

Yup. 145 Lb ft

See my pic below...


The Tapered axle bolt
 

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I sure hope a total teardown is in the plans for this rear assembly..it appears that sandblasting of the housing took place without the vent being sealed much less any other points of interest..
 
I sure hope a total teardown is in the plans for this rear assembly..it appears that sandblasting of the housing took place without the vent being sealed much less any other points of interest..

Total tear down regardless if it was open, media blasting will push sand right past seals (nasty stuff for bearings).
 
yes, why I said beside any other points of interest..

many of us know folks that have blasted without regard to ultimate teardown and clean up...and the eventful results of that lack of attention
 
Thank You, i'm talking about the Big castle nut that push the hub on the axle, so 145 lb ft is the way to go ?


nut.jpg
 
I sure hope a total teardown is in the plans for this rear assembly..it appears that sandblasting of the housing took place without the vent being sealed much less any other points of interest..

you mean the rearend he stuck back in already?
ps,to the op,the lubrication qualities of blasting sand have been over rated...
you didnt really put that back in without cleaning it inside did you?
 
If you are referring to the castle nut on the end of the axle that holds the hub on, make sure that you torque it to at least 145 ft lbs like the manual says, especially if you are going to be running it hard. The torque creates an interference fit so that the hub can't spin on the axle and break the key or the keyway in the axle or hub. I've seen articles suggesting putting anti-seize or some lube on the axles where the hub mounts to make them easier to remove next time. I personally don't think that this is a good idea as it kind of defeats the purpose of the interference fit JMHO.

A little anti-seize just keeps both pieces from rusting together and making it a royal PITA trying to get it off the next time. This is why many tapered axle rears go so long without proper brake maintenance... the hub is too damn hard to get off because it rusts to the axle. Also converting to later slip on brake drums solves most of that problem.
 
you mean the rearend he stuck back in already?
ps,to the op,the lubrication qualities of blasting sand have been over rated...
you didnt really put that back in without cleaning it inside did you?


I have no personal knowledge of the final phase of the clean up of this axle, if or if not torn down and if or not stuck back under the car...just throwing out a caution as I have seen many people say yeah I wrapped the ends and such when blasting and forget to cover the vent and other such minor details...in this picture it seems to this viewer that the ends were not even wrapped for protection..as stated by others..that sand gets to places one would never suspect..
 
Total tear down regardless if it was open, media blasting will push sand right past seals (nasty stuff for bearings).

yup
It is being 100 percent restored
Going on my 63 Max Wedge Polara Clone
It is a 3:91 from a real 63 Maxie

Yup, being restored....
Thanks for the support.
"super-bee_ski"
 
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