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Torsion bar cross member replacement

reds coronet

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What is neccesary to replace a torsionbar cross member?Do I have to support the body in some way so the body doesn't twist?I also have to replace front floor pans . Thanks for any help.
 
If you need to replace your floorpan up front, now would be the time to do it. I'm sure it's not impossible to replace the crossmember from under the car but I wouldn't want to do it! On my `68 there are 2 tabs on both sides that are spot welded to the top of the rocker assembly under the floorpan. either way the vehicle should be fully supported during the process.
 
Nice job Detmatt1....... with your explanation of torsion bar crossmember remove and replace!! I could'nt have said it any better! Good Job!
 
Last edited:
Update !!

This is what I have to deal with. Can I support from rocker panels (Below doors?) and rear frame rails?
 

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i'm getting ready to do mine also,(first time) but i would say that since you have the motor still in the car and the tires on i would also add some support on the frame rails under the firewall.if your rocker panels aren't rusted bad and still have there strength you can put a 2x4 under each one.and as another member told me was before you cut the crossmember out,take measurements from frame to floor at different spots,then measure again to double check the first ones.
 
Well said roadrunnerman. If it were me I would go overboard on the support from the ground. With all 4 tires on the ground and all your body panel gaps as they should be measure from the bottom of each frame rail front and back and same for your rockers. Write down all measurements on a diagram then lift and support the car equally in 4 spots, for the rear put a jackstand under each forward leafspring perch and in the front adjascent to the engine crossmember. Make sure that each of the 4 points are raised equal distances, let's say 8", now take the dimensions that you wrote down when on all 4 tires and add 8" to all 12 dimensions and build up stacks of material be it wood, metal, cinder blocks or more jackstands and place in those same spots. A nice flat level concrete floor would be ideal but if you don't have that just make sure you don't move the car from the spot you took the initial measurements. You should be good to go.
 
Ugh...RUST! I hate RUST! Note: Those spotwelds are very stout welds that hold that Xmember in. Car's gotta come off the floor, unwind the torsion bars, remove 'em, good luck, and I'll be interested in seeing more pics. Kind of reminds me being under my Dodge Daytona in the winter under the engine with the head on trying to remove the Turbocharger; I did it, but, it took ALL DAY!
 
I am about to do the same thing on a 1969 Sport Satellite Convertible. I pulled the engine and trans to make life easier. The 383 and auto trans waigh a ton and with that extra waight out of the car it should be easier to support things while in that weakend state. I think it may also be easier to cut the floor pan from above it and replace it when I am done rather than working from underneith.
 
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