Torsion Bar Markings

[Coronutcase]

Does anyone know what these numbers mean? 1st picture is the left and is stamped: 777 ULT... 2nd pic is the right and is stamped: 776 CBW. I'm guessing 777 for left and 776 for right (odd left, even right), but have no clue what the letters mean.

I like my suspension on my 67 Coronet raised and to get it where I liked the look, one bar was cranked nearly all the way in, the other bar, maybe a little over half. I'm wondering if these are the original T Bars or replacements. I also wonder why so much difference in adjustment to get the front the same on both sides. Is one bar more worn than the other? Did someone install two different bars with different thicknesses? Not sure what's going on, maybe these numbers will help if someone knows what they mean.

Also, since I like a little more front ride height, I'd be willing to replace them with new ones. What would some of you recommend for my situation? I'm currently in the process of rebuilding the entire front end and installing QA-1 Upper and Lower control arms. I was going to use the old Torsion Bars, but now having second thoughts while it's all still apart.

Thanks for all your help in advance. BTW, I was considering Mopar Performance .960 Bars from Mancini Racing.

 

[PRND21]

The numbers are the last 3 digits of the part number. I’m using .960 bars from Mopar Performance on my 65. Got the ride height I wanted, the ride is fairly decent.

 

[Coronutcase]

Thanks for the reply PRND2L.

Were you able to get your height without cranking them way in?

Great looking Belvedere! Perfect stance!

 

[PRND21]

If I remember right the jack screws are about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way in. B engine with aluminum heads, manifold and water pump and housing.

 

[monaco66coupe]

If I remember right the jack screws are about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way in. B engine with aluminum heads, manifold and water pump and housing.

Does anyone know what these numbers mean? 1st picture is the left and is stamped: 777 ULT... 2nd pic is the right and is stamped: 776 CBW. I'm guessing 777 for left and 776 for right (odd left, even right), but have no clue what the letters mean.

I like my suspension on my 67 Coronet raised and to get it where I liked the look, one bar was cranked nearly all the way in, the other bar, maybe a little over half. I'm wondering if these are the original T Bars or replacements. I also wonder why so much difference in adjustment to get the front the same on both sides. Is one bar more worn than the other? Did someone install two different bars with different thicknesses? Not sure what's going on, maybe these numbers will help if someone knows what they mean.

Also, since I like a little more front ride height, I'd be willing to replace them with new ones. What would some of you recommend for my situation? I'm currently in the process of rebuilding the entire front end and installing QA-1 Upper and Lower control arms. I was going to use the old Torsion Bars, but now having second thoughts while it's all still apart.

Thanks for all your help in advance. BTW, I was considering Mopar Performance .960 Bars from Mancini Racing.

View attachment 639894 View attachment 639895

777 left and 776 right should be 383 two barrel engine, unless factory A/C, then the next step up as below was used.
779 left and 778 right should be 383 four barrel, which is the standard bars for a 68-69 road
runner, A/C or not A/C.
440 HP and hemi was 781 left, 780 right. period.

 

[Coronutcase]

777 left and 776 right should be 383 two barrel engine, unless factory A/C, then the next step up as below was used.
779 left and 778 right should be 383 four barrel

Hmmmnn, that's odd. According to my fender tag and Vin, my car is a factory 4 bbl 383 car without air.

So since one is nearly cranked all the way in and the other about half to get the front even, I'm thinking the one is just really tired and worn out. Maybe I will try the Mopar Performance .960 bars.

Thanks for the explanation.

 

[monaco66coupe]

Hmmmnn, that's odd. According to my fender tag and Vin, my car is a factory 4 bbl 383 car without air.

So since one is nearly cranked all the way in and the other about half to get the front even, I'm thinking the one is just really tired and worn out. Maybe I will try the Mopar Performance .960 bars.

Thanks for the explanation.

the blue mopar parts book spells out the application regarding the numbers. my 66' coronet 318 car has 777 left and 776 rights.But that old poly weighs as much as any 383.my 67 Plymouth 383 has the 779 left and 778 right.

 

[monaco66coupe]

the blue mopar parts book spells out the application regarding the numbers. my 66' coronet 318 car has 777 left and 776 rights.But that old poly weighs as much as any 383.my 67 Plymouth 383 has the 779 left and 778 right.

It sounds like your bushings are worn out, but bars also collapse over time. I don't like .096 bars myself. Hemi bars were .092 original equipment, and that is pretty stiff. I drive mine, and I like a stock ride. The thicker the bar, the stiffer the ride, and has nothing to do with ride height.

 

[Coronutcase]

It sounds like your bushings are worn out.

That makes sense. The rubber in the left bushing was completely gone. When I removed the lower control arm, a small chunk of rubber fell to the floor, so it was basically metal to metal. I'm pretty sure that's the side that was cranked in all the way. the right bushing wasn't so bad. Maybe my bars are ok after all. Hopefully these new control arms will take care of some of my problems.

Thanks.

 

[monaco66coupe]

That makes sense. The rubber in the left bushing was completely gone. When I removed the lower control arm, a small chunk of rubber fell to the floor, so it was basically metal to metal. I'm pretty sure that's the side that was cranked in all the way. the right bushing wasn't so bad. Maybe my bars are ok after all. Hopefully these new control arms will take care of some of my problems.

Thanks.

the left side takes the abuse, as the driver is sitting in the car all the time.During alignment the driver side is always cranked up a bit to compensate.
to better explain,the bar controls the rate of roll only, a lighter bar will raise the same, but the spring rate Increases based on the resistance to moving.

 

[Coronutcase]

I know it's been awhile (I've been on the road alot).

I just finished the front suspension on my '67... New QA-1 upper and lower control arms, all new ball joints and all new tie rod ends. After all this , I have exactly the same problem... The left Torsion bar is cranked all the way in, the right is about half and the left side is still lower. I was hoping the new bushings would help this but it did not. I think I'm going to try new torsion bars before I waste getting an alignment, I think my left one is just too tired.

What do you all recommend? I like my front raised up a bit, maybe 1 1/2" higher than stock. It's a factory 383 car so should I go with the Mopar .960 or will the .920 do? Or is there something better, like PST or Hotchkiss? I don't want it to ride like a log wagon, but I also want to acheive the height I'm looking for. I know cranking up the bars will create a rougher ride, but will I be able to crank less on the thicker bar or will that matter.

Thanks monaco66coupe and prnd21 for all your help in this, I just want to be sure I get the right ones.

 

[monaco66coupe]

I know it's been awhile (I've been on the road alot).

I just finished the front suspension on my '67... New QA-1 upper and lower control arms, all new ball joints and all new tie rod ends. After all this , I have exactly the same problem... The left Torsion bar is cranked all the way in, the right is about half and the left side is still lower. I was hoping the new bushings would help this but it did not. I think I'm going to try new torsion bars before I waste getting an alignment, I think my left one is just too tired.

What do you all recommend? I like my front raised up a bit, maybe 1 1/2" higher than stock. It's a factory 383 car so should I go with the Mopar .960 or will the .920 do? Or is there something better, like PST or Hotchkiss? I don't want it to ride like a log wagon, but I also want to acheive the height I'm looking for. I know cranking up the bars will create a rougher ride, but will I be able to crank less on the thicker bar or will that matter.

Thanks monaco66coupe and prnd21 for all your help in this, I just want to be sure I get the right ones.

the thicker bar simply resists movement. you can crank up a weaker bar, and the car will go up, but it will also bounce all over as you go because of the weight. The thicker the bar, the less comfort the ride.

 

[Coronutcase]

Thanks again, I think I'll call around Tuesday and get some info and prices. I don't think I want to keep what I have with the left being cranked all the way in.

 

[monaco66coupe]

Thanks again, I think I'll call around Tuesday and get some info and prices. I don't think I want to keep what I have with the left being cranked all the way in.

That is likely because the bushing is worn out, and your bars are tired. I would stick with .092, any stiffer and the car won't move much, hence the ride will be more abrupt.

 

[monaco66coupe]

That is likely because the bushing is worn out, and your bars are tired. I would stick with .092, any stiffer and the car won't move much, hence the ride will be more abrupt.

I finished my 67' back in 2004, and was lucky to aquire an original OEM set(.092) from Chrysler, one of the last in the warehouse.

 

[Coronutcase]

That is likely because the bushing is worn out, and your bars are tired.

Can't be the bushing, I just replaced all the control arms, I'd say the bar is just worn out.

Nice GTX! It's good to see the pre '68 cars getting some glory!

Thanks.

 

[monaco66coupe]

Can't be the bushing, I just replaced all the control arms, I'd say the bar is just worn out.

Nice GTX! It's good to see the pre '68 cars getting some glory!

Thanks.

thank you! if you have new bushings, then the bar is toast!
Nice coronet, post better pictures. I have a nice 66' Sedan as well, and Their style is definitely
attractive.

 

[andyf]

The bigger bars ride okay in a street car IF you have good shocks. By good shocks I mean good shocks like Koni or Bilstein. The cheap shocks will ride like a dump truck with big bars. I have 0.960 bars in my Coronet with Koni shocks and it rides great. Before the Koni shocks I had some department store gas shocks in there and the ride was horrible. I was going to swap out the bars but decided to try better shocks and that was the solution.

 

[Ghostrider 67]

Any trick to getting new torsion bar boots onto the bars?