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Track Attack 69 Coronet | Pro Touring?

kiltedrunner

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Local time
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Joined
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Location
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Hi guys,
Just got back from a driving school that I took part in over the weekend. While there were some super nice current cars at the track like Porsche's, Corvette's, ZL1 Camaro's, Vipers, BMW's, Audi's and civics - my 69 Dodge did pretty well. My car has some simple parts to make it go around corners, but nothing terribly special. The 1980 Chrysler disk brakes with 11" rotors are certainly a limiting factor for stopping from high speed and the rims and tires are a bit limiting. But overall, I was impressed and the rest of the guys were very intrigued by the old mopar.

I'm considering upgrading the brakes and wheels to something more substantial and after doing a little handywork on photoshop, I think I found what I like.

What do you guys think?

Coronet in the fall (Big HRE Wheels).jpg
Coronet wheels gold (side profile).jpg

As for the current build, here's a quick breakdown on the car specs:
451ci engine (400 stroked with 440 crank)
FAST EFI EZ 2.0 Sportsman
Single Plane Indy intake
Indy CNC ported aluminum heads
Hydraulic camshaft and Indy 1.5 roller rockers
TTI stainless steel headers and dual 3" exhaust / Dynomax mufflers
Electric Waterpump
Custom brackets for alternator and power steering pump
BeCool Radiator and electric fans
727 Automatic Trans
B&M trans cooler with fan
3000 stall converter
Gear Vendors Overdrive
8.75 rear end
4.30:1 gears
Hydraboost brake booster (because of a lack of vacuum)
Hotchkis front and rear swaybars
Dynamat sound deadening

Car weighs in at 3700lbs with fuel (no driver)

After going around the track a few times I can see that I need to make a few changes:
1. Oil catch can - required to prevent the mosquito fogging after a few hard turns
2. Brakes - I need some more substantial brakes to scrub the speed off
3. Rims & Tires - to make room for the brakes and wider tires for grip
4. Rear Gears - way too steep for road racing. I run out of RPM half way down the straightaway (with overdrive shut off). I'll probably go to 3.73:1 in the future
5. Steering pump upgrade - my old pump just won't handle the constant steering
6. Double Adjustable shocks would be helpful - but not necessary
7. Shoulder belts - this is a must. I can hardly stay in the seat around the corners - LOL
 
I would suggest the following:

2. I prefer the Wilwood 14" inch brake kit for the money. Keep in mind that any fixed caliper big brake kit can induce brake pad knock-back. As you may already be aware the formulation of the pad and brake fluid are the most important here. I use Performance Friction Z pads for track days with ATE TYP 200 fluid.
3. Most road racers never go over 18" wheels if they can help it. 14" rotors fit well in an 18" wheel.
4. I believe 3.73 is the best compromise.
5. I can't help you with the best pump but I highly recommend a cooler if you don't have one already.
6. I believe the Viking Warrior is the best DA damper for the money right now. But any quality damper like Bilstein should work.
7. Obviously 5 point shoulder belts are optimal. Scan craigslist, etc for expired SFI and FIA belts....an excellent deal for your needs. If you can't make multi-point belts work with your seat, an SFI rated bolt in lap belt will keep you planted in the corners.
 
I would suggest the following:

2. I prefer the Wilwood 14" inch brake kit for the money. Keep in mind that any fixed caliper big brake kit can induce brake pad knock-back. As you may already be aware the formulation of the pad and brake fluid are the most important here. I use Performance Friction Z pads for track days with ATE TYP 200 fluid.
3. Most road racers never go over 18" wheels if they can help it. 14" rotors fit well in an 18" wheel.
4. I believe 3.73 is the best compromise.
5. I can't help you with the best pump but I highly recommend a cooler if you don't have one already.
6. I believe the Viking Warrior is the best DA damper for the money right now. But any quality damper like Bilstein should work.
7. Obviously 5 point shoulder belts are optimal. Scan craigslist, etc for expired SFI and FIA belts....an excellent deal for your needs. If you can't make multi-point belts work with your seat, an SFI rated bolt in lap belt will keep you planted in the corners.

Thank you for your detailed reply! I'll take your information and use it wisely.
 
I’ve never done any auto cross with mine but the 14 inch wilwoods on my car stop on a dime! Did you ever do your upgrade?

70E03CE2-B076-44C2-9C60-A00A861B08CD.jpeg
 
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