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Trans Cooling- Best Practice?

Mike67

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Have a question which way offers the best cooling for a trans....using a factory trans cooler in the radiator or a remote unit with a fan? Will the cooler in the radiator adversely affect the total cooling capacity of the radiator?
Also does anyone have an opinion on steel lines vs braided?
I have a remote cooler with a fan I can use just curious on what others have experienced.
Thanks
 
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I run steel lines from the trans to the rad trans cooler, out to a remote cooler, then back to the trans. Not really sure if its necessary as I don't have a temp gauge for the trans.
 
I run steel lines from the trans to the rad trans cooler, out to a remote cooler, then back to the trans. Not really sure if its necessary as I don't have a temp gauge for the trans.

This is exactly how I've done it on two vehicles. I bend my own steel lines too. Looks cleaner and they are bulletproof.
 
Do you feel you need a cooler ? Are you racing?
Don't really know yet, still putting the car together.... will probably be a 95/5 car , 3200tc w/ 3.55/3.73. I'm in the Houston area and our heat indexes can get close to 115-120 in the summer. Just trying to plan ahead.
 
I have a remote cooler with a fan I can use just curious on what others have experienced.
Hi Mike, I am running a fan-assisted external cooler unit - and running steel lines with rubber hose from the trans. Not in the same league as a Big Block, but I didn't want to get overheated in processions or slow traffic.

Another reason for adding an external cooler was hearing the horror stories of what could happen if trans fluid & water got mixed in the radiator 'bottom tank' cooler.

Seems to work for me, and adding a cooler can only be a benefit for my application. Here are some pics for you...because
:xscuseless:

upload_2020-1-8_8-0-40.png


upload_2020-1-8_8-1-28.png


upload_2020-1-8_8-1-41.png


Currently have the cooler fan switching directly via relay from the Holley Sniper output control.....but I am considering changing that control method. BTW....408 stroker & 727 shorty. :)
 
Hi Mike, I am running a fan-assisted external cooler unit - and running steel lines with rubber hose from the trans. Not in the same league as a Big Block, but I didn't want to get overheated in processions or slow traffic.

Another reason for adding an external cooler was hearing the horror stories of what could happen if trans fluid & water got mixed in the radiator 'bottom tank' cooler.

Seems to work for me, and adding a cooler can only be a benefit for my application. Here are some pics for you...because
:xscuseless:

View attachment 891763

View attachment 891764

View attachment 891765

Currently have the cooler fan switching directly via relay from the Holley Sniper output control.....but I am considering changing that control method. BTW....408 stroker & 727 shorty. :)
Thanks Rog! Is that your A100?
My cooler is about the same dimensions as yours...do you monitor your temp? Have you ever compared it to a factory set up?
I think one obstacle I'll have to overcome is where to mount the aux...
Thanks again!
 
Thanks Rog! Is that your A100?
My cooler is about the same dimensions as yours...do you monitor your temp? Have you ever compared it to a factory set up?
I think one obstacle I'll have to overcome is where to mount the aux...
Thanks again!
Yes, it is on the A100. :)

And NO, I haven't yet got 'on-road' temperature monitoring of the transmission....yet. That's another project, along with oil temp monitoring.

upload_2020-1-8_8-39-28.png


:)
 
No belly pan either Rog, or is it off? Your set up is tons cleaner then mine. Mine about half the size cooler w/out fan and is speed tied above the belly pan. Was that way when I got it and it's been fine. I don't have the smash and heat created that you do.
 
No belly pan either Rog, or is it off? Your set up is tons cleaner then mine. Mine about half the size cooler w/out fan and is speed tied above the belly pan. Was that way when I got it and it's been fine. I don't have the smash and heat created that you do.
I do have the original belly pan, but I had to remove it to make way for my horizontal mounted A/C condenser. The disadvantage is that I lose a small amount of directional flow for the incoming fresh air to the radiator. I am looking at making a small shield to direct the air up to the core.
The reason I have A/C (apart from the fact I enjoy it) is that the inside of the truck gets hot, and with our slow traffic, humidity & ambient temp outside...I prefer to drive with the windows shut. Window tints help to keep the outside glare down as well. :)
 
I do have the original belly pan, but I had to remove it to make way for my horizontal mounted A/C condenser. The disadvantage is that I lose a small amount of directional flow for the incoming fresh air to the radiator. I am looking at making a small shield to direct the air up to the core.
:)

This should work, have you tried this??:poke:
26804818_796605960532676_6944146528525671747_n.jpg
 
best practice determined by your climate Minnesota is different than texax
for texas if you have addequate cooling just put a 100 row plate and fin cooler in front of the radiator with half inch-( half inch is important due to bends and loss) oil proof hose
only around 60 lbs pressure so no need for anything exotic- route any hose or tube away from exhaust and anything sharp like suspension
If no space or cooling is marginal you can mount cooler with its own fan if you can find a spot
no need for radiator cooler- get the load out of your cooling system
now Minnesota use the radiator and a thermostat switch to route your atf- you are using the rad to warm the atf.
stop and go with a load is hardest on cooler
I put bigger fittings in the trans if doing a rebuid
best ATF is +4 unless you are doing snowplow in Minnesota or hauling heavy in texas hills then Citgo Quatrosyn is fully synthetic and has a much better low temp flow and high temp performance also much longer service life where long life is important
the half inch hose really reduces backpressure measured at the trans and increases flow- that's why Mopar went to half inch on the Diesels
s
 
best practice determined by your climate Minnesota is different than texax
for texas if you have addequate cooling just put a 100 row plate and fin cooler in front of the radiator with half inch-( half inch is important due to bends and loss) oil proof hose
only around 60 lbs pressure so no need for anything exotic- route any hose or tube away from exhaust and anything sharp like suspension
If no space or cooling is marginal you can mount cooler with its own fan if you can find a spot
no need for radiator cooler- get the load out of your cooling system
now Minnesota use the radiator and a thermostat switch to route your atf- you are using the rad to warm the atf.
stop and go with a load is hardest on cooler
I put bigger fittings in the trans if doing a rebuid
best ATF is +4 unless you are doing snowplow in Minnesota or hauling heavy in texas hills then Citgo Quatrosyn is fully synthetic and has a much better low temp flow and high temp performance also much longer service life where long life is important
the half inch hose really reduces backpressure measured at the trans and increases flow- that's why Mopar went to half inch on the Diesels
s
Thanks, I will definitely use 1/2" that's a great tip!
 
Front outlet port of trans to external cooler, external cooler out to radiator cooler, radiator cooler out to rear return port on trans.
This removes the trans heat first, then the radiator stabilizes the temp. This is more for all season driving than a race car setup.
I like the steel or stainless steel hard lines, smaller outer diameter so easier to route around the starter/headers than hose.
 
6x14? In front of the radiator. 2 street cars the same. #1 turbo car 4500 flash, #2 runs a 5600 flash. Both on the street/track no issue. My pure track car same size cooler mounted under the floor pan (drivers seat area). 6100 flash. Back to back passes never goes over 200. None use an auxiliary fan.
Doug
 
I run steel lines from the trans to the rad trans cooler, out to a remote cooler, then back to the trans. Not really sure if its necessary as I don't have a temp gauge for the trans.
I'm running a Derale 8" x 10" plate cooler in front of the radiator, plumbed the same as Slepr1. Also have a B&M deep sump trans pan with sending unit bung. The Coronet has aftermarket A/C, big hyd cam and 3000 stall converter. During the summer +100* the trans stays below 200*.
 
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the one I used has a picture here
http://www.empius.com/vwcatalogsite/vwcatalog/2018/63.html
look for the 12x11 with half inch fittings
most in rad coolers are quite restrictive
which is why i said to bypass if in a warm area- the add on cooler is plenty
else get with your radiator guy and put in a high flow big cooler in the tank
also if you hunt pick and pull many ford trucks and especialy v10 vans have great coolers cheap also engine oil coolers
 
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