Trans cooling lines

[Virg464]

Do you run OEM style lines with headers? I have a 66 coronet and I'm trying to install a set of pre-bent SS lines but they interfere with the headers (driver side). I tried putting the headers in with the lines installed - No Go, tried to install the lines with the headers mounted - No Go. So I'm wondering if the lines need to be replaced due to the headers or maybe the lines that I have aren't bent correctly for this application (400 motor/727 trans/Big Block headers, hooker I think)?
Not sure who manufactured the lines but they fit without the headers. They are bent out around the bell housing area, then back in past the area wear the starter will be and they tuck up next to the oil pan rail and pass by the motor mount. The interference is right where the header tubes drop down to the collector and where the starter will sit. The lines hang just above the center link of the steering linkage with both ends tightened (without any hanger/clips). That seems a little odd to me.
Anyone got a pick of how their lines are routed in that area with headers? Would be much appreciated.

 

[440Coronet500]

The issue you're having isn't uncommon when the original OEM engine, transmission, and exhaust systems have been modified or swapped. This is where you need to get creative and either bend the lines you have to fit or buy some tubing and make you're own. 440'

 

[747mopar]

I've always made my own, cheaper and guaranteed to fit.

 

[66Satellite47]

You probably need to make your own. As a drag racer, I made my own out of Aeroquip style lines & fittings. Maybe a little expensive, but flexible to make the shapes you need. Making your own out of steel, copper or aluminum will likely take a lot of patience and numerous tries.

 

[snakeoil24]

1967 coronet here got them to fit with hemi auto and tti headers tight fit for sure and wrapped with fiberglass heat barrier. Try install headers keeping bolts loose and wiggle lines between pan of auto my case and header tubes. You may need a few magic dings for additional space

 

[Virg464]

You probably need to make your own. As a drag racer, I made my own out of Aeroquip style lines & fittings. Maybe a little expensive, but flexible to make the shapes you need. Making your own out of steel, copper or aluminum will likely take a lot of patience and numerous tries.

Thought I'd check just to see if there was maybe an old mopar trick. Fortunately I bought a flare tool from eastwood many years ago that makes perfectly double flares every time, so time to do a little fab work. Thanks for the info.

 

[Timmayy]

Thought I'd check just to see if there was maybe an old mopar trick. Fortunately I bought a flare tool from eastwood many years ago that makes perfectly double flares every time, so time to do a little fab work. Thanks for the info.

Good luck and take some pics. I am going to have to do the same thing myself.

 

[66Satellite47]

Thought I'd check just to see if there was maybe an old mopar trick. Fortunately I bought a flare tool from eastwood many years ago that makes perfectly double flares every time, so time to do a little fab work. Thanks for the info.

In my opinion the double flare is not needed for a trans cooler line, but use what you have. Just figure out what tube material is easiest to work with. My bet is aluminum. A Good brass fitting in the trans, a well made flare gets the job done.

 

[snakeoil24]

Double flare is good for stainless to reduce cracking but not necessary

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

The issue you're having isn't uncommon when the original OEM engine, transmission, and exhaust systems have been modified or swapped. This is where you need to get creative and either bend the lines you have to fit or buy some tubing and make you're own. 440'

Agreed, bent my own out of brake line

 

[Virg464]

In my opinion the double flare is not needed for a trans cooler line, but use what you have. Just figure out what tube material is easiest to work with. My bet is aluminum. A Good brass fitting in the trans, a well made flare gets the job done.

Most likely going to be aluminum tube, just easier to work with. You probably right on the flares, I just put double flares on everything since it's so easy.

 

[Virg464]

Good luck and take some pics. I am going to have to do the same thing myself.

Will do, I'll try to post a few pics before and after I install them.

 

[66Satellite47]

I've never double flared aluminum tube. I presume that would be pretty easy to do.

 

[Virg464]

I've never double flared aluminum tube. I presume that would be pretty easy to do.

Oh yeah, like butter! I use anti-seize as a lube for the die, and even steel tube is easy. Never tried S/S tube...yet

 

[Timmayy]

Oh yeah, like butter! I use anti-seize as a lube for the die, and even steel tube is easy. Never tried S/S tube...yet

I've done SS in the past. You have to have a really high quality tool for that. The regular Autozone and similar are not up to the task.

 

[dvw]

I'd make them out of steel. Double flare. Aluminum gets a backing sleeve using a single flare. It much easier with headers to run the lines away from the trans to the frame rail then forward. Steel isn't hard to bend with a decent bender. If you are not using the facory cooler in the radiator consider relocating the cooler. The area under the divers seat floor pan works well.
Doug

 

[Virg464]

I'd make them out of steel. Double flare. Aluminum gets a backing sleeve using a single flare. It much easier with headers to run the lines away from the trans to the frame rail then forward. Steel isn't hard to bend with a decent bender. If you are not using the facory cooler in the radiator consider relocating the cooler. The area under the divers seat floor pan works well.
Doug

Thanks Doug, I never would have thought of moving a cooler under the drivers seat area. Would you route the lines over the header collector/exhaust to the cooler (I assume)? I did rethink the tube material issue, and steel it is. Don't want to worry about fatigue issues with aluminum tube at the fittings. I know there's not a lot of movement but I would think there might be some high freq vibrations that could be an issue over time.

 

[dvw]

The cooler in my racecar is right behind the header outlet. Even with teflon braided lines there has been no issue, Street cat I'd run the steel lines over the exhaust, At worst a thin aluminum heat shield would keep everything in check.
Doug

 

[Virg464]

I've done SS in the past. You have to have a really high quality tool for that. The regular Autozone and similar are not up to the task.

For sure, that's why I bought the kit from eastwood. It's pretty pricey but it's been well worth it, works perfect every time I use it. Pretty sure it wouldn't have any problems with SS tube either. It came with 4 sets of tube clamp blocks (1/8', 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8") so I'm set up for pretty much any tube I will use on the car. If you do all you own tubing and/or for others you might want to take a look at the eastwood tool, their might be other companies that make a similar design as well.

Edit: 3/16" not 1/8"