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Transmission cooler question ?

pearljam724

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Did the 68/69 Coronet 400/500 with 318’s with automatic transmissions originally have a transmission cooler attached to radiator ? I have a LA 360 automatic with an aftermarket aluminum radiator. No cooler attached. How would I go about adding one if I choose as far as it being plumbed into a 904 tranny ? Where would it be plumbed into ? Has anyone on here added a cooler, if their car didn’t originally come with one ?
 
Coolers were originally built into the radiator. Steel lines connect to the bottom tank and go back to the transmission. Lots of different aftermarket coolers that mount externally to the radiator and many different ways to plumb them in. Just depends on how much you want to spend and how good you want it to look.
 
Or do what I did, and do away with running through the radiator...it makes the fluid hotter anyway...
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The cooler has an electric fan which is controlled by the engine temperature.
 
Coolers were originally built into the radiator. Steel lines connect to the bottom tank and go back to the transmission. Lots of different aftermarket coolers that mount externally to the radiator and many different ways to plumb them in. Just depends on how much you want to spend and how good you want it to look.
Damn, regret selling that mint condition original rad now, lol !
 
Thank you, everyone that replied. Maybe a project in a year or 2. My car won’t be driven a whole lot for long periods. But, its a must do in my mind. Like everything else’s related to these cars. Parts aren’t plentiful or very reasonably priced. So, I’d like to take care of the transmission best I can. I need to address the kick down not engaging properly first. Intend to install a Lokar cable for that.
 
I need to address the kick down not engaging properly first. Intend to install a Lokar cable for that.
Do not fear the cable....the Lokar is easy to install and adjust.

(Pics stolen from a magazine website)...
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Take the time to read the instructions several times, and do not cut anything without laying out the parts first.
 
Yeah, thanks Kiwi. I’ve watched several videos. Looks pretty simple. I just need to verify which direction the original carb butterfly opened at full throttle. Im not sure if it’s true. But, I’ve heard the original carb may have opened in the opposite direction at full throttle compared to my aftermarket 4 barrel Edlebrock ? If I can get this lockdown to work, I feel my car will have a lot more torque than what it has now.
 
Yeah, thanks Kiwi. I’ve watched several videos. Looks pretty simple. I just need to verify which direction the original carb butterfly opened at full throttle. Im not sure if it’s true. But, I’ve heard the original carb may have opened in the opposite direction at full throttle compared to my aftermarket 4 barrel Edlebrock ? If I can get this lockdown to work, I feel my car will have a lot more torque than what it has now.
Be sure to buy the correct brackets to hold the cable - there are several to choose from for the carb flange.
 
Be sure to buy the correct brackets to hold the cable - there are several to choose from for the carb flange.
Thank you, how do I know which bracket is correct or not ?
 
You should never run without a liquid to liquid heat exchange (like in the rad or externally mounted and cooled via heater hoses). You will read that caution statement in the literature from almost every reputable manufacturer of high performance transmission parts and torque converters.

The best explanation/analogy I've ever heard of this is comparing to cooling a red hot piece of metal. Does it cool faster dropping it in a bucket of water or blowing air on it? Liquid to liquid heat exchanges are far more efficient at removing heat. Yes, you won't get it below the temp of your engine coolant, and nor do you want to. The transmission does not work better the colder it is. It runs at it's optimum at around the same temp as the engine coolant. In fact in the very heavily stressed transmissions, in tow vehicles with diesel engines like the old Cummins Dodges, OD and converter lock-up are locked out until trans oil temp comes up to I think around 80 degrees F. The cummins trucks have a cooler mounted on the side of the engine connected with heater hoses so that it's temp is regulated by the cooling system t-stat. The ones in the rad won't see warm coolant until the t-stat opens.

Best setup is taking that hot oil right out of the converter and drop it as much as possible with the liquid to liquid. If you aren't getting rid of enough heat, or you're making more heat than the cooler can remove, then add another cooler.
 
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