Trick Flow 240's and rockers

rikkitik

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The Trick Flows shouldn't need any pushrod tunnel work, but yes, it may need a shaft mod for the offset needed in the kit. Depends on the rocker used.
I went with 3/8" Smith P/R's (ball/ball), and cup style adjusters on the rockers. I do not have any tunnel clearance issues with my setup.
 

65Fury440

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I went with 3/8" Smith P/R's (ball/ball), and cup style adjusters on the rockers. I do not have any tunnel clearance issues with my setup.

Same here, 3/8"s are no problem.
 

hunt2elk

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Ive used Mancini rockers 5 years with a SFT .671 lift cam and TF heads, shifting around 7k rpms. (once 8500 rpms)
Mr Porter said the TF springs were heavier than needed for a SFT, around 440 lbs
AndyF sold them to me from his test engine, said the sweep is fine on the TF heads, looks dandy to me.
I just went to a solid roller, and after speaking to a rep at Harland Sharp, decided to have them bushed for $240 at RAS ( great outfit btw, one week turnaround).
The rep said the bodies of those rocker arms are good to around 1200 lbs, and are used in another Chevy application for those pressures. He went on to say the weak part becomes the un-bushed arms on the shafts, over 600 lbs there becomes the possibility of galling.
I went with some Hughes hardened shafts with banana grooves, along with the bushings, just for insurance.
Any of your choices would be fine, and the Mancinis would probably last a good long time for your deal.
So Harland Sharp will install bushings in the rockers they make for Mancini?
 

hunt2elk

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So what I am gathering is that the HS sold through Mancini with no bushings or needles would be fine for my setup? If they are not needed, I see no reason to pay almost double the price for the "E" series of HS that come with needle bearings.
Also want to be certain I buy a set of rockers that don't require any modifications to the heads as I don't want to take them off.
 

65Fury440

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So what I am gathering is that the HS sold through Mancini with no bushings or needles would be fine for my setup? If they are not needed, I see no reason to pay almost double the price for the "E" series of HS that come with needle bearings.
Also want to be certain I buy a set of rockers that don't require any modifications to the heads as I don't want to take them off.

Sorry I wrote my post in haste.
RAS is Rocker Arm Service, which has changed names to Rocker Arms Unlimited
Rocker Arms Unlimited
They are the folks who can bush the un-bushed Mancini/HS rockers, but, looking at my shafts that came from Mancini originally, and the inside of my rocker arms, I would think even those might be overkill for a SFT engine.
Needle bearings spread through your new engine would suck hard. The KISS principal may apply in this case.
I would use the TF rocker shaft stud kit if you don't already have one.
 

hunt2elk

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Here are a couple pics of the valve tips currently.

20210821_131307.jpg 20210821_131519.jpg
 

rikkitik

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Your sweep pattern is about twice as wide as rikkitik, with the the same heads, rockers, and similar valve lift. That is telling you something.
Which means, (if I learned Mike's "lesson plan" correctly), the extra sweep is translating motion intended for valve up/down movement into rocker tip movement side to side. Whether it is the sweep at the valve tip, or the pushrod/aduster side moving away from or towards the head in the pushrod "tunnel". In either case, sweep generally results in lost lift, and the valve not moving the way the lobe's designer intended.
 
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451Mopar

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The 440/505" stroker build was done to see if taking out of the box parts could make a nice mild daily driver type pump gas street engine.

The 440 Source 4.25" stroker kit was used with the ARP2000, and light-weight crank options. The Low compression 26.7cc dish Icon pistons, and
the Trick Flow heads with the solid roller, Ti retainer spring package. The Compression was right around 10:1 (10.04 calculated with zero deck, but the piston was -0.002" below deck at TDC, so 10.01:1 calculated.)
The Crank Main and Rod clearances were around 0.0025" on the mains, and 0.0020" on the rods.
A few rod pin ends needed a light hone, but they are a close fit. Spec is 0.0005"
The balance was checked, and piston weights were from lightest at 590.4 gram to heavy at 592.3 gram, Average = 591.2
The pins were pretty close in weight from 140.9 gram to 141.3 gram, average = 141.1
Rod Pin end weights from 251.1 gram to 253.4, average = 252.0
Rod Crank ends weights from 560.7 gram to 563.8 gram, average = 562.7 This was a 3.1 gram spread, and 2.0 gram light of average, and 1.1 gram heavy than average. Because some of the heavy rod end rods also has some of the lighter pin ends, the Total rod weights were 814.2 to 815.2 gram, average 814.7
By matching the rod crank ends heavy and light per throw, the average was 1125.325 gram with 0.825 gram maximum difference.
With the rod bearing weight of 48.3 gram, and 4 gram oil the average total rotating weight per pin is 1225.925. I rounded it to 1226 grams.
By matching the heavy rod pin ends with the lighter pistons and pins, the average Piston, Pin and rod end weights was 984.2 grams, with maximum difference of 0.4875 gram.
Rings = 57.7 gram, pin locks 4.4 grams and piston/pin/rod end = 1046.3 grams
My calculated Bobweight using 50% factor = 2272.225 grams. The Balance factor used as shown on the 440 source crank card is 2271.5 grams, difference of 0.725 grams.

For the Cam used the Voodoo solid roller SKU 40230732 243/249 @ 0.050" duration, with 1.6:1 rocker arms, lift calculates to 0.616"/0.624".
Used custom length Smith Brothers pushrods, and the H&S Rockers out of the box also.
I didn't check the rocker shaft height, or valve sweep on this engine with a mild cam, so I don't know how far off the geometry may have been off from optimal, but everything worked fine, had no issues with this mild cam.

My plan was to build the engine with a Holley Street Dominator intake for low hood clearance, FiTech EFI, and a 6-quart hemi oil pan.
Then Dyno the engine, try a few intakes, and maybe run it for a year or so before making changes, like going back and making all the part the same weight and re-balance the engine, and use Gapless piston rings.

At this point (a few years ago) the build went sideways because I lost my job and was out of work for a year, so the engine was finished, and sold to a friend, but used different intake (Mopar M1) and oil pan (aftermarket to fit a C-Body), but it was a smooth running engine on pump gas and had good power.

Anyhow, I'm collecting parts for a new 440/512 (Bores didn't clean up at 0.030", so going 4.375" bores)
This time, the pistons, pins, rods will be matched for weight and then I'm having my local machine shop balance the crank.
The pistons are the same Icon 26.7cc dish, but with my old Brodix B1 B/S heads, so about 11:1 compression, and will be using a slightly bigger cam.
 

StrokerSpanky

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Used the Harlan Sharp rockers specifically for trick flow and Edelbrock heads. Perfect alignment and no problems. Ordered custom length pushrods from Smith brothers. No problems ayquick delivery too.
 

IQ52

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This is all Greek to me. IQ52 mentioned that to me, but maybe he looked at it wrong?
Yeah I wish I was perfect but I missed that. I didn't do the math, just looked quickly at the cam card for a rocker ratio and saw none.....so falsely assumed......lazy bad idea.

Cheaper rocker assemblies are available but my first choice is still the Harland Sharp rockers. But as I told you, I like to spend money.

Any of the rocker assemblies you are looking at will 'work', but I've not seen any rocker arm set up in my shop that wouldn't be better with a B3RE kit. I'm making my own set right now for my 906 heads with Comp Cams 1.5:1, 1621-16 rockers (which were not on your list).
 

hunt2elk

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Mike at B3 is on vacation until the 30th. I told Brian I want to hold off making a decision as far as what rockers to order until I talk to Mike. He is ok with that, so that is the plan now...
 

rikkitik

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Mike at B3 is on vacation until the 30th. I told Brian I want to hold off making a decision as far as what rockers to order until I talk to Mike. He is ok with that, so that is the plan now...
Whhaaaaat.....
This is one seriously messed up thread....
First, people have posted different opinions and experiences, and nobody has said nobody is full of sh** (doesn't that, in itself, violate some kind of internet protocol :wtf:).
Then you come on to say you are going to wait, and make an informed decision? Patience?? Seriously?.......
Good for you.:thumbsup:
 

hunt2elk

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Whhaaaaat.....
This is one seriously messed up thread....
First, people have posted different opinions and experiences, and nobody has said nobody is full of sh** (doesn't that, in itself, violate some kind of internet protocol :wtf:).
Then you come on to say you are going to wait, and make an informed decision? Patience?? Seriously?.......
Good for you.:thumbsup:
Lol. And you are the one who kind of started it by posting a pic of your valve stems. Then I posted pics of mine. Then Mike miraculously joined the forum. Kind of like it was meant to be I guess.
 
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