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Trunk lid t-bar removal

ckessel

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I'm in the process of doing the USCT mini tubs on my 65 and need to back off the trunk torsion bars. The bars need to get pulled out of their respective brackets since those brackets get moved. What do I need to do to get them out? Lid is already off of course, have one hinge off but can't figure out how to back it off without causing issues. The FSM is pretty vague.
 
On the brackets welded to the fender wells a series of adjusting slots are located to vary the spring preload. ease the bars down to relieve the tension and they will come out. I had a little trouble when I removed my springs in 2009. Then I fabricated new fuel and vent lines without leaving any clearance for the springs so, I installed struts instead. Be careful!
Mike
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Yeah. Was just going through a bunch or previous posts on that. I think I'll do the struts. Don't need any more human body damage.
 
I can get y
Yeah. Was just going through a bunch or previous posts on that. I think I'll do the struts. Don't need any more human body damage.
I can get you the PN/ brand strut that I chose to use (after 3 different tries) if you like.
Mike
 
If I have to do this with my 65 Belvedere I think I am going to try removing them while the decklid is still on maybe with someone to help support the weight of the decklid...
Shouldn't that make the tension that is on those springs easier to deal with?
 
I always take them out of parts cars using a large pry bar after I remove the deck lid
They pop out easy
 
I can get y

I can get you the PN/ brand strut that I chose to use (after 3 different tries) if you like.
Mike
I'll take you up on that. Before I head over to help a friend stab an engine/trans in his 32, going to get the hot wrench out[ since the truck is out of the way in that bay] and take the spring out of those turkeys. When I get back I'll see if my Knipex bolt cutters will snip them.
 
Struts that I used: NAPA 819-5538
Mounting hardware: NAPA 4 each: 735-1896
NAPA 4 each: 735-1990
These struts worked with my leverage points. Yours may be different but, that's up to you.
I used a board to hold my deck lid up as I work alone most of the time.
Mike
 
I'll give it a whirl. Hot wrench worked great on torsion twist. I tried the bolt cutters where I had heated but the material is too hard. Try the sawzall next. If no, cut off wheel time. They are dislodged out of the brackets but can't get them out in one piece. Not for long! Thank you.
 
Engine/trans is in the 32. I've known this guy for many years, was a customer of the speed shop I worked at. Hot Rod guy who did HVAC sheetmetal for a living before he retired. He has a stomp shear and some other stuff I don't have and vice versa, so I help him out when he needs a hand. Good to have connections.

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Isn't there a tool that clamps on the bar to adjust, or remove them ? I still have to get mine back to the original, working position.
 
Nothing shown in my FSM. It was very vague. Some of the gents showed what they did but it looked like it would still be a problem. I'm not worried about keeping it correct. I'm waaaay past that.
 
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