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Trying to put 2016 wheels on a 1966 isn't working

VFilms

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I have a set of 18" wheels from a 2016 Challenger which I would like to use on my '66 Belvedere. However, a test fit on the original drums shows that the spindle sticks out too far and won't allow them to bolt to the drum. In the photos you'll see the face of the drum to the end of the spindle and cap is 3" and the same measurement on the wheel is 1 7/8". Obviously they won't fit.

I have no problem converting the front brakes to disc. My question is on the depth, or length, of the spindle on the available conversion kits.
I've contact Summit but they could give me no information. Only that they should work with wheels designed for use on my Belvedere.

I'm not tied to these wheels, I paid $100 for all four and had to clean them up, but would like to use them if possible.

Has anyone run into this issue. Or can someone enlighten me on the depth of the spindles on conversion kits.

Thanks

Photos
Upper Left: My drum brake
Upper Right: Disc conversion photo found on the web
Lower Right: Rotor from Summit Racing kit
Lower Left: Challenger wheels

Disc Brake Wheels.jpg
 
Of course they aren't going to bolt right on. The bolt circle isn't even the same. Close but not the same. Wrong hub size and offset as well.
 
Of course they aren't going to bolt right on. The bolt circle isn't even the same. Close but not the same. Wrong hub size and offset as well.
Now don’t I feel stupid. What the hell. It was worth a shot for $100. Thanks
 
I have heard that adapters are available but....
As much as I like some of the modern wheels, most seem to have far too much negative offset to look right in a classic car. They often have a flat face that tucks in far too much on an old car.
Our old cars had to have positive offset to push the outer edges of the wheels out. New car wheels don't stand off of the hub far enough to look right. Just an opinion though.
 
The hub on a disc rotor will be the same as a drum. Why shouldn't it ... it has to fit the same wheel !!
 
I'm not sure of the actual measurement but this is a better visual of how much the spindle protrudes. I'll be down in my shed in a few hours and can take off a wheel and measure it exactly.
20170901_140709.jpg
 
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The bolt pattern is just different enough to be dangerous. The studs can break, and/or the lugs work loose. How do you feel about three wheeled cars at 70 mph?
On the other hand, new ford wheels, read "mustang" , do have the same pattern as the old mopar. They will just usually need a spacer to be in the right place in the wheelwell.
A set of adapter/spacers might solve the bolt circle-offset problem. Last time i looked, the price was $70 per wheel.
Kinda kills the bargain deal though, doesnt it.
 
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Ok I measured it - the actual dimension from the rotor body to the tip of the domed end cap is 2 1/4".
 
Wheel spacers imo are not cool getting away from that hub is spooky and most I’ve seen are aluminum against cast iron or steel ...
 
Ok I measured it - the actual dimension from the rotor body to the tip of the domed end cap is 2 1/4".
Thanks for taking the time to measure. Seems this is an exercise in futility. Appreciate the help.
 
The bolt pattern is just different enough to be dangerous. The studs can break, and/or the lugs work loose. How do you feel about three wheeled cars at 70 mph?
On the other hand, new ford wheels, read "mustang" , do have the same pattern as the old mopar. They will just usually need a spacer to be in the right place in the wheelwell.
A set of adapter/spacers might solve the bolt circle-offset problem. Last time i looked, the price was $70 per wheel.
Kinda kills the bargain deal though, doesnt it.
The bolt pattern on the wheel is 115 mm OR 4.52755906 inches. Yes, different enough to be dangerous. Damn metric system.
As far as the 'bargain deal' is concerned... anyone need a nice set of wheels...cheap.
 
The hub on a disc rotor will be the same as a drum. Why shouldn't it ... it has to fit the same wheel !!
According to 66Sat the conversion hub is 2 1/4 or 3/4" shorter than my drum. But looks like this wheel idea is a bust anyway - bolt pattern. Another lesson learned.
 
I have heard that adapters are available but....
As much as I like some of the modern wheels, most seem to have far too much negative offset to look right in a classic car. They often have a flat face that tucks in far too much on an old car.
Our old cars had to have positive offset to push the outer edges of the wheels out. New car wheels don't stand off of the hub far enough to look right. Just an opinion though.
Now that I'm looking for a new, and proper set of wheels, I'm dealing with offset. I have a badly deteriorated set of Cragars on it now - the car's been in storage for 25 years - and the offset on the Cragars brings the tire much too close to the wheel opening lip. As you noted the offset on the newer car wheels is flat which is oddly why these Challenger wheels don't have that problem.
 
66 bels have some of the smallest wheelwells of any of the b-bodies. From what i have heard and seen here, a 15x8 (or 17x8 or 18x8) with 4 1/2 backspace usually works well in the rear. That is a zero offset . The old cragers were hard to fit on several kinds of cars, because they tended to be "deep dish", meaning not enough backspace.
As always before buying wheels, measure measure measure! Mopars vary from car to car, and the production tolerance for sheet metal was kinda wide. What fits on his, might not fit on yours.
 
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