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TTI Header Coating? Opinions Please

HawkRod

Formerly hsorman
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So based on the expense and hassle to install head pipes to my original exhaust manifolds, I have decided that it is better to bite the bullet and just get headers.

I know they are expensive, but TTI headers seem to be the way to go, not just for fit, but also for good ground clearance (which is very important to me). I do not need show quality stuff, as this car will be driven.

The "base" headers I would get would be the chrome, which are the cheapest with some protection other than base steel (plus they are only $20 more than the raw steel).

My question is: Is it worth it to pay $150 more for ceramic coated? What experience do people have as far as how long it lasts? Are under hood temps really cooler with the TTIs?

Inquiring minds want to know...

As always, I appreciate the help!

Hawk
 
A friend and I recently installed headers on our cars (he has a '72 Challenger). We bought the bare steel TTI headers, had them sandblasted and painted with the new POR-15 Satin Black heat resistant paint. Looks great when dried. It really is personal choice...I just don't like chrome that much, especially on headers, where the pipes can turn blue & yellow with enough heat. TTI headers are definitely a nice fit.
 
I believe propwash just had his headers ceramic coated so you can check this thread for some info and if you are looking at ceramic perhaps cuda chick could be of assistance and i'm sure advice You might even have them delivered to her, she coats, then ships to you. ???

I'm sure TTI has the option of ceramic coating though but perhaps Its worth the PM to consult her
 
the tti "chrome" does blue from heat and probably isn't the best coating for longevity. i have ceramic coated tti headers on one of my cars and the aluminized tti pipes on another car with cast iron exhaust manifolds. both fit great and have held up well.
 
Yes the coating is worth the money. They are also coated with a thermal barrier on the inside which helps keep the heat down and make the coating last. I fired up my new motor with them an the coating held up just fine. Pretty durable and looks great.
 
I never liked headers till I experianced TTI ceramic coated headers AWESOME 5000 miles on the car they still look new
 
The chrome/nickel TTI headers will develop surface rust on a driver. The Coated ones will not.
I have the 2" TTIs in the Charger. They come in a semi-shiny sheen, but that will dull out over time. If you run hot or change cams, the heat from either will discolor the headers in some areas and leave them shiny in others. I have had mine since 2006. Great fit and no troubles. I've had oil leaks that left streaks of burned oil on the pipes. To clean them, they recommend soap and water. Yeah, right! Ever try using soap on baked on oil? I used a commercial grade paint stripper and a scotch brite pad. Yeah, it took the oil off...and the coating. No BFD though. I just wiped it with lacquer thinner and sprayed it with VHT silver. It wasn't a direct color match, but for under the car, it is close enough and is still sticking!
 
I've had a few sets and my friends as well they are great. They help dissipate the heat and we saw some HP gain on the dyno over uncoated! Just my thoughts. Get the ceramic coated, Peter.
 
Thanks for the feedback!

Looks like the general consensus is that the ceramic headers are worth the extra money.
I was skeptical because 20 years ago I put ceramic headers on my 1973 340 Road Runner. I would say the coating did NOT hold up well, but that was 20 years ago and not TTI.

Hope the wife is in a good mood when she sees the bill! :icon_wink:
 
TTI. A thousand $ to my door. Buy from a vendor who supports this site. My ceramics run a full 100 degrees cooler than other non-ceramics when checked with the laser temp gun. Heat and weight reduction alone make it worth it to me. Had to ding the area closest to the passenger side pitman. I slammed and flattened them pretty much on route 66. No leaks. Still work good. TTI.
 
The chrome headers will usally discolor because of heat variation and oil, finger prints, grease and so on fairly fast. I would and have several times because of building many cars myself and with friends bite the bullett and go with the coating. I have a 64 four door car that I am currently building and I bought a set of used step headers and had them coated buy a company in LA area who does the coatings for TTI. I have used TTI in the past on 3 A-Body cars and have had great luck with the fit and coatings. Good luck on the project. I am in the column forum with pictures.


Modified by staff Please read the posting rules before posting again.
 
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I have had the ceramic coated tti's on mine for 3 years now....5k miles on them and you would never know to look at them.
 
I believe propwash just had his headers ceramic coated so you can check this thread for some info and if you are looking at ceramic perhaps cuda chick could be of assistance and i'm sure advice You might even have them delivered to her, she coats, then ships to you. ???

I'm sure TTI has the option of ceramic coating though but perhaps Its worth the PM to consult her

tallhair, I appreciate the props here but I got out of high temp ceramic coatings a few years ago simply because the shipping costs were too prohibitive for my customers. I can share a couple tips and some little-known info about most companies' "fine print" though when it comes to a manufacturer's warranty though.

Make sure whomever coats your headers does the inside AND the outside or they'll eventually rust from the inside out. Tune your car before installing them -- especially if you plan to put it on the dyno -- because excessive heat can and will void the warranty. Use stainless steel hardware on the headers themselves AND on your valve covers above them ... rust drips are NOT covered by anyone's warranty that I know of. And above all (sorry Gregory C), under no circumstances should you ever use any harsh chemicals or abrasive pads / cleaners to remove accidental spills or road grime! "Breaks" in the coated areas like that merely create hot spots elsewhere and will affect your horsepower and tuning.
 
Well I was still right about the part with checking with you CC !! :) Thanks for the info and advice
 
And above all (sorry Gregory C), under no circumstances should you ever use any harsh chemicals or abrasive pads / cleaners to remove accidental spills or road grime! "Breaks" in the coated areas like that merely create hot spots elsewhere and will affect your horsepower and tuning.

I'll give up .045% Of a horsepower to get rid of oil streaks!
The chrome oil pan I have seals out oil barely better than a screen door would. It has weeped oil despite different gaskets, sealants and bolt torque. I'm ready to go with a 6 quart Hemi pan.
 
The Ceramic coating lasts. When your spending a fortune already for TTI the additional cost just keeps them lasting a long time. I have a set for my hemi and they are old and still look great. These days we have few choices for headers. Hooker product doesn't last like it used to plus painting headers never lasts. I guess it's a matter of can u deal with the extra cost.

- - - Updated - - -

tallhair, I appreciate the props here but I got out of high temp ceramic coatings a few years ago simply because the shipping costs were too prohibitive for my customers. I can share a couple tips and some little-known info about most companies' "fine print" though when it comes to a manufacturer's warranty though.

Make sure whomever coats your headers does the inside AND the outside or they'll eventually rust from the inside out. Tune your car before installing them -- especially if you plan to put it on the dyno -- because excessive heat can and will void the warranty. Use stainless steel hardware on the headers themselves AND on your valve covers above them ... rust drips are NOT covered by anyone's warranty that I know of. And above all (sorry Gregory C), under no circumstances should you ever use any harsh chemicals or abrasive pads / cleaners to remove accidental spills or road grime! "Breaks" in the coated areas like that merely create hot spots elsewhere and will affect your horsepower and tuning.
Thanks Cuda chick for your insight. The only problem with stainless hardware it loosens to easily. So Black hardware is a must. Loose header bolts burns gaskets and messes up flanges.
 
I've had a few sets and my friends as well they are great. They help dissipate the heat and we saw some HP gain on the dyno over uncoated! Just my thoughts. Get the ceramic coated, Peter.

This is a very good point, and IMO the best benefit of ceramic coated headers. Besides cosmetics and corrosion protection, your under the hood temps will be reduced as well as the surface temp of the header. Along with that you will have more efficient scavenging through your exhaust which shows proven HP/TQ gains on the dyno. I went with the raw Doug's D452 headers and had them ceramic coated locally in the higher temp Jet Black. I have seen/heard that the silver coated ones can loose a bit of their luster, but haven't confirmed that myself. Good luck whatever route you go.
 
I went with the raw Doug's D452 headers and had them ceramic coated locally in the higher temp Jet Black. I have seen/heard that the silver coated ones can loose a bit of their luster, but haven't confirmed that myself. Good luck whatever route you go.

Black would be my choice too, not a huge fan of the silver look. Maybe old school white! ha ha ha
Did they coat the insides of yours too?

Reed
 
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