TTI Headers and Starter interference

65_Satellite

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Yes after seeing what YY1 has pics of it looks to be a mini. I think if you step back and just redo the wiring so not to lay on the header you will be fine.
Ok but if you look closely here where I have it circled, the body of the starter is actually touching the header tube
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65_Satellite

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Kind of hard to get a good pic, but here is what I do. I cut the terminal to seperate the 2 wires so I can route them easier. This starter is from DB Electrical. There is at least 3/4" from the front of it to the header tube.

View attachment 1248726
Yea that is quite a bit more clearance than I have. The body of my starter is actually touching the header pipe. What starter are you using?
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bearman

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I don't have a starter in mine yet still doing research and watching threads to get a better idea of what to do. In the old days before mini starters it was wrap, hammer and double gasket the header to keep it away from the starter. But today with all the new stuff you would think this would be a piece of cake. Its not but a great learning tool.
 

hunt2elk

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Yea that is quite a bit more clearance than I have. The body of my starter is actually touching the header pipe. What starter are you using?
View attachment 1248728
I get them on ebay from DB Electrical. China made I would bet. Don't see any numbers on them, but they sure look to be about the same as what you already have.

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Daves69

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An out of the box or off the wall idea:screwy:?
IDK what actual clearances these headers have on the various applications as I have FWs on my Barracuda.

What are your thoughts about separating the #1 tube something such as this for starter access? Will the tube collapse? Is there even any room for a clamp?
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Centerline

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This is a pic of my Headman headers on the 440 that I built for my '64 Polara. A couple judicious dents for clearance and with a mini starter I have plenty of room.
IMG_5649a.jpg
 

multimopes

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Have you ever considered Tri-Y headers? From what I have seen, they give much better clearance to everything. I have pretty much the same issue with the starter as you and have no idea who made my headers. I guess they were too embarrassed to mark them?!
 
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khryslerkid

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Some "Mini" starters are a bit larger than the Dodge Dakota starter.

The Jegs on the right is one of the "Race" starters. The Dakota is on the left.
20170317_204928.jpg


I have all kinds of room with the Doug's.
Screenshot_20220110-113459_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20220110-113425_Gallery.jpg


I also brought my wires in from the back. Required a longer battery cable and relay wires.
20170618_161546.jpg
 

bearman

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65_Satellite

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Some "Mini" starters are a bit larger than the Dodge Dakota starter.

The Jegs on the right is one of the "Race" starters. The Dakota is on the left.
View attachment 1249176

I have all kinds of room with the Doug's.
View attachment 1249177

View attachment 1249178

I also brought my wires in from the back. Required a longer battery cable and relay wires.
View attachment 1249179

I saw a few people mention the Dakota starter. I read though that there was issues with it hitting the block? Did you have that issue? What year and application Dakota is this for? Lastly, based on my pictures of where my wiring is, do you think this would work without needing to re-wire my car?
 

YY1

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The issue I had with Dakota/Ram starters is that on some, the nose casting has an area that contacts the block,right near the gear.

It can be ground away, but it's in kind of a interior corner and could get grinding debris inside the housing if you're not careful.
 

khryslerkid

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I saw a few people mention the Dakota starter. I read though that there was issues with it hitting the block? Did you have that issue? What year and application Dakota is this for? Lastly, based on my pictures of where my wiring is, do you think this would work without needing to re-wire my car?

I've heard of this on some blocks. I didn't experience this on my 1967 block. The main terminal was a bit close to the block so I installed a washer and the terminal nut on the stud and cut the excess thread above that off. Maybe 3/16" to a 1/4". The plastic protector will actually fit over the terminal after doing this. All I can say about this little starter is it really has the torque. Any second generation Dakota should work. Maybe even some of the first gens. I never researched which years work.

I can't really see the wiring in your pictures. Looks like the adapter is in place on the terminals? I opted out on using it since it wasn't needed running the cables out the back. There is an other adapter out there to help keep the terminals further away from the block.
 

WileERobby

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If those are tti, you can keep 'em. I have ZERO issues with the Hookers on one of my current cars. From way back, I've installed various manufacturers headers on various vehicles.
 
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