Tunnel Ram Tuning - 400 w/ Dual 1406 Carbs

[VAD Gold Rush]

Hey folks, I’ve got a car I’m building as a street/strip car. It’s mostly strip oriented with a 4.33 gear, a spool and a 3500 stall converter. Last weight I got on it was around 2830 without driver. I’m getting ready to throw a tunnel ram on the engine and was curious if anyone has any recommendations on where to start with the tune up.

The engine is a 400 with hypereutectic pistons, CNC ported 440 Source Stealth Heads, a MP 509 Purple Shaft, soon to be a Weiand tunnel ram with a pair of 1406 Edelbrock carburetors. Unfortunately the engine only has 8.57:1. That’s the best I could get without machining any parts, which I wasn’t interested in doing since I was just trying to get the engine running. I’ll build another engine once I build some money back up.

I know, I know, “put Holleys on it.” Believe me, that was my first choice. I’m working with what I can get cheaply, and a couple free Edelbrock carbs that function is better than spending money on Holleys that don’t. The linkage setup will be easier to figure out, and I’ll have my car together in an hour this way.

Anyway, if anyone has any recommendations on where to start with them, I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[dvw]

Those cars should work pretty well right out of the box. Running the accelerator pump rod in the hole closest to the rear on the airhorn is a good place to start.
Doug

 

[Bird 426]

Yeah, I will be watching, I have two #1405's on my Hemi, at about 440 cu in.
Seemed a little rich, but only had 20 minutes on the motor in the garage, not an accurate comparison. Will be watching.

 

[Rich H.]

Regardless of your induction, if someone gave it to me I'd start by either locking the timing out at around 34 degrees and running a start retard box, or running one super light spring in the distributor to give full advance at idle but retard when cranking.

In my experience with "big cam + no compression" combinations it's the easiest way to get some pep in their step.

 

[Don Frelier]

I would suggest pulling off the metering rod covers and ensure the rods are pulled down at idle/ low speed.

 

[eldubb440]

I know, I know, “put Holleys on it.” Believe me, that was my first choice.

I ran 2 Edelbrocks for almost 20 years with zero issues.......priority 1 for a street car is reliability

 

[VAD Gold Rush]

Regardless of your induction, if someone gave it to me I'd start by either locking the timing out at around 34 degrees and running a start retard box, or running one super light spring in the distributor to give full advance at idle but retard when cranking.

In my experience with "big cam + no compression" combinations it's the easiest way to get some pep in their step.

The distributor is an Accel dual point that I already worked over. The timing is all in by around 1500 rpm with the shortest timing curve I could get out of it. I’ve got the ignition side covered.

I would suggest pulling off the metering rod covers and ensure the rods are pulled down at idle/ low speed.

Oh yes, making sure the springs aren’t too heavy or light for the application. Already on the agenda.

I ran 2 Edelbrocks for almost 20 years with zero issues.......priority 1 for a street car is reliability

Reliability is definitely a must, but this car is primarily purposed for acceleration. I’m in the early stages of the build, so street driving is mainly just to get it sorted out without needing to borrow a truck and trailer, take it to the drag strip and get two or three runs before going home. (That’s not to say I go out and do 1/4. Mile pulls every time I drive it.)

 

[eldubb440]

The distributor is an Accel dual point that I already worked over. The timing is all in by around 1500 rpm with the shortest timing curve I could get out of it. I’ve got the ignition side covered.

Oh yes, making sure the springs aren’t too heavy or light for the application. Already on the agenda.

Reliability is definitely a must, but this car is primarily purposed for acceleration. I’m in the early stages of the build, so street driving is mainly just to get it sorted out without needing to borrow a truck and trailer, take it to the drag strip and get two or three runs before going home. (That’s not to say I go out and do 1/4. Mile pulls every time I drive it.)

I drove to the track, made over 30 passes (had the track almost to myself), and drove home........reliability and zero leaks is a must

 

[VAD Gold Rush]

I drove to the track, made over 30 passes (had the track almost to myself), and drove home........reliability and zero leaks is a must

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Hell yeah! That doesn’t happen for me around these parts. The track is usually really packed, and it’s a bit had to drive a car with 4.33 gears and a 3500 stall converter down 50 miles of highway. (I know, excuses, excuses.) I’m just being reasonable for others on the twisty, two lane black top.