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Two stage Paint color on couldn't get to the second clear part

Auggie56

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This was two days ago so now do I have to lightly sand the color coat then the clear? If so what grit do I use? I'm pretty much a novice in the paint department.


Thanks
 
Metallic or solid color?
 
This was two days ago so now do I have to lightly sand the color coat then the clear? If so what grit do I use? I'm pretty much a novice in the paint department.


Thanks
600 paper sanding very lightly. If you go thru anywhere you will have to apply more base coat before you clear it. I might also be
beneficial to rebase whole car after sanding before applying clear. Make sure you have enough base coat ,reducers and catalyst and clear.
You want this to be the last time.
 
Yeah I would read the TDS on the clear. If it were me, I'd lightly sand the paint, re-base at least one coat, then clear it.
 
Also, remember to blow out all cracks and seams after scuffing, then a wipe down with your surface prep, let that flash off.
Blow it off again and tac it twice.

Your going to get extra dust in the clear at this point nothing you can do unless your willing to start over, unmask and wash the car ect. The dust nibs can be knocked down , you prob were going to wet sand and polish / buff anyway.
 
Not knowing the brand this is a shot in the dark. I have never done it but I have heard of people leaving BC on for a week before they cleared without sanding (car left in the booth over the Christmas holiday IDK). I would not chance it but several on the net have. Claim no ill effects from the delay. Best bet would be to call the paint rep and ask them. My understanding is that after the window (say 24 hours) you have to lightly sand to 1) get a mechanical bond between the base and the clear, and 2) get a chemical bond (as sanding will open some of the base back up) between the base and the clear. As for what grit, if you are going to sand, my product's tech sheet doesn't even say:
Preparation Allow basecoat color a minimum of 30 minutes and a maximum of 24 hours before clearing. After 24 hours the basecoat should be lightly sanded before applying JC630.

That is it, I would have to call to get an answer.
 
How do people get in these situations??

Don’t you get the info sheets on your paints and read them 3 times over before you start this painting process?

if not you should.

You’ve invested a lot of labor and money to have to start over. WTH?
 
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I have left the base on up to three days before I sprayed the clear. Maybe some are different than others. I have always used PPG products. Make sure you wipe it down with a tack rag real good
 
How do people get in these situations??

Don’t you get the info sheets on your paints and read them 3 times over before you start this painting process?

if not you should.

You’ve invested a lot of labor and money to have to start over. WTH?

It's called life I was called away and had to go.
 
I can tell you that Limco 4100 clear needs to be shot over 1200 grit if it has to be sanded and Upol clears are 800-1000 grit. I would ASSUME most clears are around that.
 
I can tell you that Limco 4100 clear needs to be shot over 1200 grit if it has to be sanded and Upol clears are 800-1000 grit. I would ASSUME most clears are around that.

Many thanks.
 
How do people get in these situations??

Don’t you get the info sheets on your paints and read them 3 times over before you start this painting process?

if not you should.

You’ve invested a lot of labor and money to have to start over. WTH?

To address your question about the instruction sheet, I didn't know of one and none was offered. Furthermore, this is just the engine compartment, not a complete repaint. It will hurt in the wallet a bit but not if the whole car was involved.
I think I'm going to lightly sand this base coat and shoot another light coat of base then as you said thirty minutes later top coat. Question, does it require a light coat then a finish coat?

Many thanks.
 
It's called life I was called away and had to go.
Walking away from a paint job is something you just don't do if it can be avoided at all, it may have sounded rude but it's sound advice. I know all about interruptions with a family and 3 kids, I painted my car in the middle of the night to avoid being disturbed... finished at 7:00AM:eek:

If it were me I'd scuff it with 600 and apply another coat of base to eliminate the chances of anything funky showing up in the paint.
 
Walking away from a paint job is something you just don't do if it can be avoided at all, it may have sounded rude but it's sound advice. I know all about interruptions with a family and 3 kids, I painted my car in the middle of the night to avoid being disturbed... finished at 7:00AM:eek:

If it were me I'd scuff it with 600 and apply another coat of base to eliminate the chances of anything funky showing up in the paint.

Thanks.
 
If it's just the engine compartment maybe use a slow drying reducer/hardner so it has time to bite in on the first coat. Or do it on a cold day for the temp reducer that you have. Just spitballing.

You don't want to sand on the metallic base very much if any at all.
 
If it's just the engine compartment maybe use a slow drying reducer/hardner so it has time to bite in on the first coat. Or do it on a cold day for the temp reducer that you have. Just spitballing.

You don't want to sand on the metallic base very much if any at all.

Like he says.
Metallic is not really to be sanded.
It is a darn engine compartment right!!
You will get thee!
 
Many thanks, people will let you know how it turns out. I tried to hire this done to avoid situations like this but all the painters I know were to busy.
 
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