Under $300 disc brake conversion.

1967coronet

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What "center hole" are we talking about here? Where the rear bearing race inserts? The front one?
The lincoln rotor center hole dia. As it sits over the mopar hub and studs.
My raybestos Lincoln hubs felt / fit just a touch to snug to slide on the hub.
No changes at all with the inner or outer mopar hub.
Only thing I had to do was remove the swedge stakes so the original drum would slip off.
 

moparedtn

Ed on the Ridge
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The lincoln rotor center hole dia. As it sits over the mopar hub and studs.
My raybestos Lincoln hubs felt / fit just a touch to snug to slide on the hub.
No changes at all with the inner or outer mopar hub.
Only thing I had to do was remove the swedge stakes so the original drum would slip off.
Ah got ya. For some reason I was hoping the new rotors would replace the old drums, hubs and all...
I'm really over those hubs. :)
 

1967coronet

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Ah got ya. For some reason I was hoping the new rotors would replace the old drums, hubs and all...
I'm really over those hubs. :)
Ed , Scarebird does make a conversion kit that makes use of a one piece hub & rotor combo. Same basic deal , retains original spindle.
The rotor is larger though and if I recall without going to their web page you need a minimum 15" wheel dia. to clear that rotor.
I went with the smaller rotor so I could retain my 14s , i had in the last year mounted new BFGs.
 
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moparedtn

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Ed , Scarebird does make a conversion kit that makes use of a one piece hub & rotor combo. Same basic deal , retains original spindle.
The rotor is larger though and if I recall without going to their web page you need a minimum 15" wheel dia. to clear that rotor.
I went with the smaller rotor so I could retain my 14s , i had in the last year mounted new BFGs.
Yep, uses the 11 3/4" Cordoba rotor and that *snicker* Chevy Celebrity caliper.
That's probably my next move in brake world, honestly - although Fred has all that new 11" drum stuff on him,
I'd have instead converted him to disc had the SSBC company not crapped out on everyone.
I had their kit on my workbench when I found out - oops, no support for "next time!"
Right back to Summit it went, along with a tongue-lashing for them because they knew SSBC was going
tits up and said nothing about it.
 

Lowcar

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It was time for a brake job on my 67 coronet.
It needed pretty much everything 10" drums, cylinders, hoses , shoes the works.
I had read in mopar action Erinburgs article on the Scarebird brackets and parts list for a disc swap. So away I went. The brackets and hardware from scarebird along with parts list and instructions came in at $113 with shipping.
My local bill at my automotive for calipers , shoes, and hoses was $120.
A set of Ford/lincoln 10.5 rotors by raybestos off ebay was $41 So all in for $274.00
This is a manual not power set up sized to work with the manual master. I went with the 10.5 set up so I could retain my steel 14" wheels.
My master cyl. is in good shape so no change there.
With this setup you reuse your original hubs. My bearings and races were good and just needed trip through the parts washer and a repack. I had a pair of seals for the hubs.
I've had it out just around the block a couple times because of weather no real hyw. Test but the around town and pedal feel is great.
If needed I may have to install a proportion valve in the rear line but I will wait until spring and get some testing on a wet road ect. View attachment 1227841

please i would like to know more details on these were you bought calipers, {shoes} i assume you mean pads,and hoses for120 and raybestos rotors for 41 dollars, best price i can find with local parts house o'riely's is over twice that. do you have a secret connection
 

1967coronet

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The bigger problem is ... Did you remove the residual check valve in the port of the master cylinder??? Your brakes will drag and not work
No, I did not have the lines off the master.
After bleeding the rears ( new shoes ) and the new front set up I have no drag. Wheels spin free . I will admit to only a few blocks of local driving for testing due to weather.
This spring I will get it out and see how it all works. So far so good.
 

1967coronet

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please i would like to know more details on these were you bought calipers, {shoes} i assume you mean pads,and hoses for120 and raybestos rotors for 41 dollars, best price i can find with local parts house o'riely's is over twice that. do you have a secret connection
Lol, no secret connection, our shop gets a discount due to volume. We purchase through Arnold's Motors. The pads and calipers were a Bosch brand ( perfect stop )
The hoses I would have to pull the ticket to check the brand.
Rotors came from Ebay, even with our jobbers price ebay was cheaper.
So yes, I guy just walking in off the street prob will pay a little more at retail.
Lowcar, I just seen your a Iowa member also. If your ready to pull the trigger and do the swap I would be glad to get your pads and calipers for you . Not sure were your located so prob be some shipping $ plus the parts. I'm 45 miles west of DesMoines.
 
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MIKESPOLARA

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The bigger problem is ... Did you remove the residual check valve in the port of the master cylinder??? Your brakes will drag and not work


Not all drum masters will have the residual valves in them, for some reason. If it does have it you will know right away as the calipers will lock or drag heavily
 

MIKESPOLARA

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The lincoln rotor center hole dia. As it sits over the mopar hub and studs.
My raybestos Lincoln hubs felt / fit just a touch to snug to slide on the hub.
No changes at all with the inner or outer mopar hub.
Only thing I had to do was remove the swedge stakes so the original drum would slip off.



How difficult was it to seperate the drum from the hub? Were the existing studs long enough after you installed the new rotor?
 

1967coronet

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How difficult was it to seperate the drum from the hub? Were the existing studs long enough after you installed the new rotor?
Hi Mike, caught me on break lol.
Stud length was fine for my steel wheels, Rotor face is not very thick.
As far a removing the drum off the hub.
Each of my studs had 4 stake strikes. I just used a cut off wheel to touch each of those. Once the drum was off I touched them up with a hand file.
A guy could press out the old studs and press in new. Scarebird has a part # for longer studs if needed.
 

MIKESPOLARA

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Hi Mike, caught me on break lol.
Stud length was fine for my steel wheels, Rotor face is not very thick.
As far a removing the drum off the hub.
Each of my studs had 4 stake strikes. I just used a cut off wheel to touch each of those. Once the drum was off I touched them up with a hand file.
A guy could press out the old studs and press in new. Scarebird has a part # for longer studs if needed.


Asking because I've seen Fords that are impossible to remove drum from hub without drilling the studs
 

qkcuda

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I priced out the calipers and rotors locally, and it looks like this is the way to go for me. The complete kits Summit and others offer are nice, but between the difference on the dollar and shipping/brokerage charges, this will be my best bet. I already have a brand new aluminum master and the adapter plate I never used on my last car.
 

1967coronet

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qkcuda

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There is not the greatest picture of the bracket on their website.

Is it flat? I know the one for the larger brakes has a recessed center.
 

Vinny

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What "center hole" are we talking about here? Where the rear bearing race inserts? The front one?
The center hole of the rotor needs to be opened up a bit so it can fit onto the hub. That’s very clear. My question is about the hub. Does the existing drum brake hub get reused? Are the studs difficult to get out in order to remove the drum? Did you need to purchase new studs? Thank you.
 

qkcuda

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I just ordered the same kit. My buddy has a parts store and he found me brand new coated calipers for about the same price as remanufactured ones.
 

Rockyracoons

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It was time for a brake job on my 67 coronet.
It needed pretty much everything 10" drums, cylinders, hoses , shoes the works.
I had read in mopar action Erinburgs article on the Scarebird brackets and parts list for a disc swap. So away I went. The brackets and hardware from scarebird along with parts list and instructions came in at $113 with shipping.
My local bill at my automotive for calipers , shoes, and hoses was $120.
A set of Ford/lincoln 10.5 rotors by raybestos off ebay was $41 So all in for $274.00
This is a manual not power set up sized to work with the manual master. I went with the 10.5 set up so I could retain my steel 14" wheels.
My master cyl. is in good shape so no change there.
With this setup you reuse your original hubs. My bearings and races were good and just needed trip through the parts washer and a repack. I had a pair of seals for the hubs.
I've had it out just around the block a couple times because of weather no real hyw. Test but the around town and pedal feel is great.
If needed I may have to install a proportion valve in the rear line but I will wait until spring and get some testing on a wet road ect. View attachment 1227841
Wow. Great info thanks
 
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