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UTG $8 cure for vapor lock question?

SteveSS

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When we race the Challenger 1/8th mile, the first run goes fine. The 2nd it cuts out halfway like you lifted the throttle. Let it cool down for an hour ans the same thing.

So I'm watching an old Uncle Tony's video and he's talking about a one in, two out fuel filter. It separates vapor from fuel. Sound reasonable. He's running a vapor line back to the tank. What do you connect that to?

He say fuel is boiling in the fuel pump and it has to be separated before the carb.
 
When we race the Challenger 1/8th mile, the first run goes fine. The 2nd it cuts out halfway like you lifted the throttle. Let it cool down for an hour ans the same thing.

So I'm watching an old Uncle Tony's video and he's talking about a one in, two out fuel filter. It separates vapor from fuel. Sound reasonable. He's running a vapor line back to the tank. What do you connect that to?

He say fuel is boiling in the fuel pump and it has to be separated before the carb.
I got eight bucks that can cure the UTG problem.... a tube of superglue for his lips.
 
He seems to have bumbled into some extremely old and well known info.
Yes, the mechanical pump is a great invention for boiling gas before the carb.
Yes, Chrysler put those vapor separator filters on from factory.
And yes the best and absolute cure is a stand alone electric pump.
 
I'm sure the EFP is the answer, I just hate the way they sound.

I know Mopar guys hate UTG and GYC.
 
I always hated chugging at half track. Old memories.
 
Not much love or respect for Uncle Tony on here by the looks...
I actually like him and really enjoy some of his stuff. He's a backyard mechanic for sure, a bit rough and ready, but a great writer and has had a great career in muscle cars.
Some articles he wrote here Tony DeFeo, Author at UTG

You don't get to live and love cars for as long as he has and be accused of knowing nothing surely?
 
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Not much love or respect for Uncle Tony...
I really enjoy some of his stuff, backyard mechanic, a bit rough and ready, but a great writer and great career in muscle cars.
Some articles he wrote here Tony DeFeo, Author at UTG

You don't get to live and love cars for as long as he has and be accused of knowing nothing surely?
Yeah my favorite Uncle Tony videos the one how to steal a Mopar. why don't you just teach these kids how to rob a liquor store he's such a dumbass
 
Mopar engineers fixed the problem for us back in 68. Uncle Tony picked up on it and is correct. Seems like everyone wants to re-invent the wheel so-to-speak. Truth is the fuel pump is the cause of vapor lock during a hot shut down. (never heard about a full throttle vapor lock) The separator was and still is the cure for it. Mopar fixed it for the 440 & Hemi but should have followed thru with all the Big blocks IMO. My brother's 1968 383 Charger vapor locked many times while my 440 R/T Charger never did. After some research on both of our cars, we figured it out. Swapped in the separator, send unit and return from a wrecked Hemi Charger on his car and never had the issue again.
 
We have a 408 Stroker from Blueprint. Based on a 360. 4 speed, .323 Sure grip.
 
I bought a 69 Coroner R/T 440 4 speed, still has the separator on it with return line. Original everything on this car. Friends dad bought a 68 R/T 440 4 speed new and it came with the separator also.
 
Also look at how and where the fuel lines are ran... Lots of people redo them under the hood and put them over the exhaust manifolds with a steel filter hanging above creating a BIGGER problem...
 
Not much love or respect for Uncle Tony...
I really enjoy some of his stuff, backyard mechanic, a bit rough and ready, but a great writer and great career in muscle cars.
Some articles he wrote here Tony DeFeo, Author at UTG

You don't get to live and love cars for as long as he has and be accused of knowing nothing surely?
Man you guys are tuff. I see his program as directed at newbies who who wants to get into the hobby.
 
Back to my original problem. Separator or EFP with a regulator. How to plumb in a return line to the tank?
 
OE ran a tandem line alongside the 3/8" line back to the pickup and it had 2 nipples on it, 3/8" and 1/4". Either a pickup like that or you need a race tank with the return provisions.
 
When we race the Challenger 1/8th mile, the first run goes fine. The 2nd it cuts out halfway like you lifted the throttle. Let it cool down for an hour ans the same thing.

So I'm watching an old Uncle Tony's video and he's talking about a one in, two out fuel filter. It separates vapor from fuel. Sound reasonable. He's running a vapor line back to the tank. What do you connect that to?

He say fuel is boiling in the fuel pump and it has to be separated before the carb.
It's just a return filter. It doesn't separate anything. The fuel in the stock system only moves through the lines as fast as the carb uses it so it sits near hot engine and exhaust long enough to vaporize. The return system provides a return path to the tank for all the unused fuel. Keep it moving and mix it back with what's in the tank will help it from vaporizing.
 
OE ran a tandem line alongside the 3/8" line back to the pickup and it had 2 nipples on it, 3/8" and 1/4". Either a pickup like that or you need a race tank with the return provisions.
This is the answer. If you have a stock tank it's a $40-60 sending unit. The worst part is they never fit right, even when the tank flange is perfect. so be prepared to make a better gasket if your existing one is bad.

You can prove this by running a temporary return to one of the 2 fuel tank vents that vent the rear narrow part of the tank. If at a track you'll have to route is so you pass tech. TEMPORARY.
 
I bought a 69 Coroner R/T 440 4 speed, still has the separator on it with return line. Original everything on this car. Friends dad bought a 68 R/T 440 4 speed new and it came with the separator also.


Five of my seven GTXs had the vapor separator in place when I bought them. Never had a vapor lock problem. The two without separators gave me vapor lock issues until I upgraded them to original components. Both cars were restored with the return line to the fuel tank in place, but connected to a conventional fuel filter, rather than a separator.

When Bob Miller sold me Baby Blue in 1983, he explained that the car "wore belt and suspenders." The car had the factory vapor separator still in place, but Bob had also installed an electric fuel pump. That car started as though it was equipped with modern day fuel injection.
 
As I mentioned in post nine, Full throttle vapor lock is not gonna happen IMO. I think your issue is elsewhere. Are you certain it is not electrical? If it is fuel related, it more than likely is starvation like possibly the fuel sock or filter plugged. If it is electrical, it could be a piss-poor ground on the ECU or heat related coil or plate coil issues. It just doesn't sound like vapor issues to me.
 
So my car was a 318 when we got it. Now a 408 stroker small block. I don't think they have the return line. Is it available? I'm guessing it's metal with two rubber ends.
 
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