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Valve Cover Leak - what would you do?

67SniperHockey

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Hey guys - researched and read through all the threads on this topic. Hoping for guidance on my specific situation.

440, stock cast iron heads and put on new valve covers. Installed Fel-Pro 1612s with permatex RTV Black to the gaskets and married them to the valve covers themselves - laid them flat on garage floor with weight on top for a day.

Installed and have a leak on passenger side toward firewall - hits on 6 and 8 and smokes when it gets warm after 20-30 seconds.

Now there was evidence of this from the previous owner and on occasion I had slight smoke on 8 exhaust (headers) but went away quickly. I’m assuming head is slightly warped on that back corner.

So what should I do next? Should I remove passenger side valve cover - clean top of head and silicone actual head in that area? Thanks!!
 
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Moroso Permalign gaskets. One and done.
s-l1600.jpg
 
Moroso Permalign gaskets. One and done.
View attachment 993570
I’ve heard those work with aluminum heads and not so much stock cast ones?
Just not sure if I should silicone the top of the head on the side that is still leaking. Or in other words put silicone on bottom of gasket as well in that area? Also seems a small amount of oil is oozing out of the bottom valve cover bolt above #6.
 
Are the head castings leaking? Wouldn't be the first time for that to happen......
 
Are the head castings leaking? Wouldn't be the first time for that to happen......
Could be? But I literally put the new valve covers on today and it is leaking more than it barely did before. Did 2/3 start and heat cycles so would assume since the new valve covers and gaskets are the only thing I changed and now have a new problem with leaking.
 
OK, just went through this on my 71 440 when installing the new AMD repro valve covers. I tried several different gaskets. Tried the silicone, cosmetic, And FelPro 1610. None sealed in the rear corners. Ugh, what a mess. Finally the FelPro 1612 gaskets are working but also used Indian Head gasket sealant between the VC and gaskets. Also found out the equal torque on all bolts/ studs is critical. Also the gaskets are thicker than stock ones. So be careful with bolt thread engagement.......just saying.
F5F9AB71-3FA7-4B71-9F1D-7373F1D6C691.jpeg

This fall/ winter I’ll be installing a new Mr SixPack cam so everything comes apart. The VC gaskets I’ll be using are the same ones used 20+ years ago with the old valve covers. They sealed and worked for all those years. FelPro VS13379. The cheap ones.......
 
So in my scenario - would you remove the valve cover - and apply the sealant to the bottom of the gasket in the area where I am experiencing leaks? Or put sealant directly onto the top of the head and let dry and reapply the valve cover/gasket?

Thanks everyone who has commented so far!
 
OK, just went through this on my 71 440 when installing the new AMD repro valve covers. I tried several different gaskets. Tried the silicone, cosmetic, And FelPro 1610. None sealed in the rear corners. Ugh, what a mess. Finally the FelPro 1612 gaskets are working but also used Indian Head gasket sealant between the VC and gaskets. Also found out the equal torque on all bolts/ studs is critical. Also the gaskets are thicker than stock ones. So be careful with bolt thread engagement.......just saying. View attachment 993583
This fall/ winter I’ll be installing a new Mr SixPack cam so everything comes apart. The VC gaskets I’ll be using are the same ones used 20+ years ago with the old valve covers. They sealed and worked for all those years. FelPro VS13379. The cheap ones.......
Indian head, been using over 45 years !!
 
I used the Moroso with cast heads and factory valve covers. No leaks may have just been dumb luck but 2 times I'd say its more than a fluke.
 
Sniper, you haven't told us what valve covers you are using?
Cast? Fabricated? Repro steel? Stamped aluminum? Stock steel? It does make a difference.
 
I know you are talking to the OP but I have installed 3 sets total and the first ones were on Mopar Performance valve covers and cast heads.. Forgot about those.
 
B4F51B58-91F4-48A1-8508-CC0F56D40F53.jpeg


These are the valve covers - brand new from Mancini with the 1612 gaskets.

Again I did have a small leak (every so often) in the same area with the valve covers that were on it. That’s why I’m thinking something is warped slightly with the head.

So remove and apply the Indian sealant on top of the head and try that?

Thanks everyone!!
 
This is prob to old school but I just use plain brown cork gaskets , my covers are steel originals I make sure the bolt holes are flat and the covers sit flat on the bench.
Glue the gaskets onto the covers with regular old brown gasket sealer, napa ect. I like to stick bolts through the holes to keep the gaskets inline and if your covers have the retain slots lock the gaskets into them also.
Let dry overnight and then install , they do not have to be cranked on just nice and snug , I like to use a 1/4 inch drive rachet so I got some feel and not over tighten them.
I prob am just lucky but I dont have trouble with valve covers,
rear main now thats a different subject :praying:
 
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/valve-cover-gaskets.87565/#post-910218941

i followed dvw’s instructions on my 440 with aluminum valve covers - no leaks

i used the moroso thick rubber gaskets. for the tops of my iron heads, valve covers removed, i sprayed some degreaser on a steel brush and went over the mating surface. did multiple iterations of brushing with degreaser and drying it off - did over the course of a few days. made sure it was bone dry/no oil residue on the mating surface. then followed dvw’s instructions.

no leaks ever since



watermelon
 
I had a leak on the driver’s side rear and what was found was old silicone was hardened (and taking up space) at the bottom of the bolt hole. Valvecover bolts had been torqued down to specs but didn’t go down far enough.
All the holes were cleaned and no leaks. Just a thought.
 
I had a leak on the driver’s side rear and what was found was old silicone was hardened (and taking up space) at the bottom of the bolt hole. Valvecover bolts had been torqued down to specs but didn’t go down far enough.
All the holes were cleaned and no leaks. Just a thought.

Great point I will do that as well. Best way to clean them out? Leave valve cover on and do one at a time with compressed air so debris doesn't get into motor? Thanks!
 
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Maybe take a few out.
Use a solid piece of electrical wire 12 gauge or coat hanger and try to measure the depth to make sure their even. Measure the bolt length too.
If it’s dirt or silicone those solid wire tools can scrap and break up the mass. Use a vacuum or air hose to clean out the particles.
 
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