I hear ya. We've been dealing with this in California for over a decade with our extremely high ethanol content fuel. You can read all the threads on this, but the key is to keep the heat away from the carb. Wrap all of your underhood fuel lines with high heat sleeves and add at least a 1/2" thick plastic or wood spacer under the carb. If your hood clearance will allow it, adding a 3/4" or 1" spacer is even better. The spacer and line insulation will help a lot.
HawkRod also pointed out one I forgot - the return line to the tank. I also added a 3 nipple fuel filter with one of those plumbed as a return line back to the tank. Most mechanics will tell you that a return line is only needed for EFI. That's BS. I and many others have found a return line with today's fuels to be very beneficial when used with a carb setup. It keeps the fuel continuously flowing which helps keep it cooler.
Yep...
old set up, with the iron heads
it still had a choke stove & the factory heat crossover
MP Alum 6bbl intake
& stock style steel 6bbl fuel lines, except from the reg to carbs
& that line was wrapped with DEI heat shield
had a Carter 8psi mechanical org.
(Holley 8.5psi hi-volume 180gph, after the Carter died)
I added an Aeromotive SS 14psi 175gph electric fuel pump
& big canister with a replaceable filter back by the tank
AN stuff between them
I just wrapped the incoming
carbs fuel lines from the
bypass reg
to help with heat soak
& a
bypass line going back to the tank, keep the fuel constantly flowing & cool
even in 100*+ heat
this old street/strip setup was nowhere near
the 'heat & HP' of the new set-up, can produce
& up at altitudes, all the issues, are all compounded/worse
I was doing preventative measures even back then
new stuff I don't like the look of fuel lines as much
sort of busy
Also I went/switched to Edelbrock RPM Alum. Heads (mildly ported)
they have no heat crossover
but it (AN stuff) cured any & all fuel heat issues & starvation at high RPM too
Added phenolic spacers (I went 1" but don't need that much)
I don't have any hood clearance issues, some may have
it's a low-deck & has an A12 liftoff hood
AN lines/fittings & thick Russell (Armorgaurd ? from like 2007) #6 AN Hose
not ever even a hint of vapor lock, NOW
I had to sacraficed the choke stove rod/connection
I don't really need it here anyway (may make a new one sometime later)
lines DEI wrapped where near, any heat source
(granted for an all-OE look, you can't do it, that's someone else's issue)
I did most of it on this specific combo back in 2016
no heat-soak or vapor-lock
ever anymore,
even with the crappy summer fuel blends, lots of (corn liquor) 'ethynol content' 91 oct.
even driving at 7,000+ altitudes, where all the problems are compounded
My intake temps are in the 110*-120* range, after driving, not 200*+ & then heat-soaking
Grant you, I have an electric 35gph water-pump & it's in an Edelbrock alum. housing
I use Purple Ice in the radiator (water wetter type additives) & 50% antifreeze Bee-Cool
almost no heat off the rad. hoses,
from a 3 core large tube down flow, thicker custom 22" Alum. radiator
& 2) Perma Cool alum. blade electric fans,
everything ran thru relays fuses & arming switches
1) 16" 3,500cfm puller, in a custom shroud,
it does the main job
& 1) 13" 2,950cfm pusher "just in case"...
I rarely ever even turned it on
It runs at like 180* even in 100*+ Calif. summer days (it can get to 110* up here)
unless I'm hammering it hard
then it gets to just under 200* (maybe) & I can turn on the pusher fan,
cool it back down fast
I know my style of build, isn't like most here (I know it looks a lil' busy too)
but it works, works great, especially on my "
thermal nuclear underhood heat device"
big HP makes big heat, you have to combat it in someway
& take precautions too
I know I went overboard,
but it never does that
heat-soak crap or vapor lock 'ever'
I absolutely hate that ****, and refuse to succumb to it, 'ever'...
it really likes the fresh cool air coming in that A12 scoop,
thru the 3" K&N filter so it can breathe too
your results may vary
