Vinyl Top Installation

Palamo

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I just installed a new Legendary Vinyl top on my 1970 Roadrunner and trying to figure out how to install the drip rail molding. I ordered a new set from AMD and they said that they will fit 1970 B Body cars with or without a vinyl top but I don't see how they will go on. Do you trim vinyl at top of flange or let it lap over? Do anybody have a set of driprail moldings for sale off of a vinyl top 68-70 Mopar B Body for sale. I was told vinyl top car moldings where a little wider.
 

moparnation74

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The vinyl top laps over the drip rail edge....Then drip rail mouldings snap on. The drip rail is three pieces....

All repro .....drip rail and window trim are junk....Tony's Parts has nice original trim, removed properly and not twisted, scratched or dented...
 

droptop

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It is different --vinyl trim is wider........................MO

If they were different, wouldn't they have different part numbers?

The vinyl should be cut in the center of the rail. The trim should go over the top with the vinyl and clip onto the metal edge of the underside of the drip rail. It will go, just take your time and resist the urge to hit it with a hammer. LOL.
 

Cornpatch MO

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If they were different, wouldn't they have different part numbers?

The vinyl should be cut in the center of the rail. The trim should go over the top with the vinyl and clip onto the metal edge of the underside of the drip rail. It will go, just take your time and resist the urge to hit it with a hammer. LOL.
I know that aftermarket vendors list a difference, and one shows trim that will fit either one. No doubt Ma Mopar trim is better material and formed to fit either application. I have heard that all non genuine Mopar parts cannot be made exactly like the original parts... Glad you mentioned that there is only one part number, I may have my trim straightened instead of after market new. I am going to install a vinyl roof where there was none before.........................MO
 

Palamo

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I need to get me some trim.
There is two different drip rail moldings - one for cars with vinyl tops and one for cars without vinyl tops. Vinyl top cars trim is wider and usually had a blue or green strip in back so assemble workers knew which ones to put on vinyl top cars
 

Cornpatch MO

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There is two different drip rail moldings - one for cars with vinyl tops and one for cars without vinyl tops. Vinyl top cars trim is wider and usually had a blue or green strip in back so assemble workers knew which ones to put on vinyl top cars
That is what I was told too. But, I am also told there is only one part number for that trim from the factory. ( see earlier post in this thread)
AAHHH forums...ask a question and get so many different answers---what to believe???........................MO
 

Richard Cranium

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My friend's 1968 Chrysler parts book confirms that there are two different sets of moldings; one with a vinyl & one without.
 

Cncguy1

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After doing some looking I have learned that there are two different part numbers for hardtop and vinyl drip rail moldings. Learn something new everyday.
My source is the Charger Roadrunner Super bee restoration guide.

My classic industries catalog only lists one
part # so whats it for?
 

Richard Cranium

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After doing some looking I have learned that there are two different part numbers for hardtop and vinyl drip rail moldings. Learn something new everyday.
My source is the Charger Roadrunner Super bee restoration guide.


One thing you have to realize, I am right 99.999% of the time.

My classic industries catalog only lists one
part # so whats it for?


The repro stuff is one-size-fits-all.
 

droptop

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I stand corrected. Here is a copy from the parts manual for 69 Plymouth B body. It does list 2 part numbers for drip rail trim. With and with out vinyl top. I do know from past experience of putting on tops of dozens of cars, the trim will work for both applications. Yes, it is a pain in the rear to remove and install this trim, but it can be done.


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Dibbons

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After repainting the vehicle, the drip rail trim on my '72 SSP stayed on for a couple of seconds, then popped itself off (over and over again). I finally gave up and left it off. It looks like it had a factory canopy vinyl roof. The vinyl roof was removed previously by a previous owner. Some day I would like to put it back on.
 

Dibbons

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Yes, shimming the trim somehow would do the trick. Only method I have heard of, so far, is to use duct tape underneath and I just don't like that solution. The duct tape will get all wiggly when I start to bang on the trim. Maybe use some actual vinyl top material under there for a spacer?
 

JimKueneman

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Yes, shimming the trim somehow would do the trick. Only method I have heard of, so far, is to use duct tape underneath and I just don't like that solution. The duct tape will get all wiggly when I start to bang on the trim. Maybe use some actual vinyl top material under there for a spacer?

Don't bang the trim on, you will dent it. Use the round end of the old school steel (not Chinese aluminum ones) church key that you wrap with some tape so the edges don't mark the trim. You use grab it one way and roll the trim off the drip rail easier than you ever have before then flip it over and use it to roll the trim onto the drip rail. It is amazing how easy it is to get the trim on and off without any risk of putting marks or dents in it.
 

El.Padrino

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Do you guys scuff the roof prior glueing the vinyl? I am talking about full resto/paintjob stage eg not just changing a vinyl too.

For me it was clear to promote better adhesion but I’ve now seen a bunch of articles where they just glued it on the painted, clear coated surface.

I doubt the factory ever thought about that...
 
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