Water in all the cylinders?

[Moparfiend]

OK as a technical person I like to define all possible causes of an issue to make sure I don't rule out anything.
I unfortunately hydro-locked the engine after its first start in "many" years. Car ran for 1 minute max. I put a new manifold on the car and carb as the old manifold was literately rotted. Cars past was unknown but after old manifold was pulled all looked good! See pic#1
Picture#2 New Gasket prior to manifold bolt down.
Pictures #3 & #4 show water in all the cylinders.

So my question is what could cause this? Could one head gasket point of failure cause all cylinders to get fouled up? There looks to be possible head gasket issues on both sides but its iffy to me.....

I see differences now with the new gasket. I am not familiar with the waterways on the manifold/engine. Is there an obvious gotcha here? Did I make a fatal cockpit error? The gasket I used was Mr. Gasket #5840 which I double checked is the right one!

Before engine start and new manifold:

New manifold gasket:

Drivers side after engine start:

Passenger side after start up:

 

[oldbee]

Sorry for your pain. 2 warped heads, somehow warped int.manifold; are my 1st thoughts.

 

[Garys1969RR]

On the small blocks, there is water in the intake manifold, it could be coming from there. To get water into ALL the cylinders, you almost have to introduce it thru the intake manifold. Especially if it ran for a minute!. Maybe you hooked a water line up to the wrong port? Or the manifold has a crack in the water passage, going into the intake runner. This seems to be the most likely cause, to get water into ALL the cylinders. Especially after running first! Post a pic of the bottom of the intake manifold, and inspect it closely. I'll bet you find a small hole from the water passage into an intake runner.

 

[Garys1969RR]

So you are sure there was no water in the cyls prior to old manifold removal? Sitting for a long time can get water into there.

 

[Demonic]

In the first pic, the water ports in the head look horrible, corroded. You mentioned the intake was "rotted". Likely leaked through into the ports. You'll have to check for bent rods, etc.

 

[khryslerkid]

How much coolant did you drain out before loosing the head bolts. Removing the heads when there is still coolant in them will fill the cylinders.

Did you pull any plugs and check for water in the cylinders before any disassembly.

 

[Kern Dog]

How much coolant did you drain out before loosing the head bolts. Removing the heads when there is still coolant in them will fill the cylinders.

Did you pull any plugs and check for water in the cylinders before any disassembly.

I agree. A simple intake swap should not result in wet cylinders like that. Something else is going on. I have learned to drain the radiator and block before removing the heads to avoid getting coolant in the cylinders.

 

[Mike67]

Agree with the possibility of water accumulation on a motor sitting outside unprotected...do the cylinder walls look pitted like water has been standing?
Lets see a pic of the intake...head casting #? I've read somewhere that a certain head wouldn't work on most aftermarket manifolds... Something to do about only head having a water crossover instead of exhaust... Don't know it's a reach and my sb knowledge is limited....I probably know more about S6s....

 

[Moparfiend]

Sorry for your pain. 2 warped heads, somehow warped int.manifold; are my 1st thoughts.

Yes thanks that's why I am asking...will post more pics in a min

 

[Moparfiend]

Ok lots of great questions and comments really appreciate it! I am going to post more pics and then try to answer all your questions!

Original set up.

New gasket has opening like the original. the one I had put on did NOT have this opening as can be seen above! What port is this???

 

[khryslerkid]

That's the heat crossover port.

 

[Moparfiend]

So you are sure there was no water in the cyls prior to old manifold removal? Sitting for a long time can get water into there.

No the cylinders have no rust they look good.

 

[Moparfiend]

In the first pic, the water ports in the head look horrible, corroded. You mentioned the intake was "rotted". Likely leaked through into the ports. You'll have to check for bent rods, etc.

I cleaned the surface of the heads off really well and the mating surfaces looked good BUT I will take another look at this good point!

 

[Moparfiend]

How much coolant did you drain out before loosing the head bolts. Removing the heads when there is still coolant in them will fill the cylinders.

Did you pull any plugs and check for water in the cylinders before any disassembly.

Pulled the plugs before I did anything and found coolant wet plugs on BOTH sides of the engine, I did not necessarily find all the plugs were wet but finding one on each side told me it was tear down time....

 

[Moparfiend]

I agree. A simple intake swap should not result in wet cylinders like that. Something else is going on. I have learned to drain the radiator and block before removing the heads to avoid getting coolant in the cylinders.

I drained the radiator before I did anything and also drained the oil pan which also had coolant in it (again before tear down). I did not however drain the engine (plugs on the side of the block) until I had everything apart. When I did pull them nothing came out....

 

[Moparfiend]

That's the heat crossover port.

Well that's interesting I guess they assumed I blocked that port off....

 

[PurpleBeeper]

How much coolant did you drain out before loosing the head bolts. Removing the heads when there is still coolant in them will fill the cylinders.

Did you pull any plugs and check for water in the cylinders before any disassembly.

Yes, I'd have to go with Kryslerkid on this one. You will definitely get water in the cylinders if you pull the heads off before draining the coolant. It might have seized a bearing.

If you are one a tight budget, you might try this:
1. soak up all the water out of the cylinders that you can with paper towels
2. wd-40 the heck out of the cylinders to prevent rust
3. drop the center link
4. pull the oil pan off & look for a broken rod
5. unbolt each rod cap & push the pistons up in the cylinders near the top (but not out of the bore). mark the rods & rod cap orientation & put a piece of rubber hose on each rod bolt.
6. undo the main caps (again, marking everything very carefully)
7. drop the crankshaft out
8. inspect to see what's bad/broken/spun
9. If it's a main, turn the crank & install new main bearings. If it's a rod, recondition that rod & replace the bearings on just that rod & the one next to it.

The real answer is to pull the motor, but I've replaced a spun rod bearing this way many years ago when I had no cash at all.

 

[Mike67]

Are those magnum heads???? If so that intake won't fit according to Edlebrock

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I drained the radiator before I did anything and also drained the oil pan which also had coolant in it (again before tear down). I did not however drain the engine (plugs on the side of the block) until I had everything apart. When I did pull them nothing came out....

Whoa, I didn't see this when I posted. If you had coolant in the oil pan BEFORE all this happened, then there might be a cracked block, cracked head or at least a blown head gasket ALREADY before you started on this repair.

 

[Moparfiend]

Yes, I'd have to go with Kryslerkid on this one. You will definitely get water in the cylinders if you pull the heads off before draining the coolant. It might have seized a bearing.

If you are one a tight budget, you might try this:
1. soak up all the water out of the cylinders that you can with paper towels
2. wd-40 the heck out of the cylinders to prevent rust
3. drop the center link
4. pull the oil pan off & look for a broken rod
5. unbolt each rod cap & push the pistons up in the cylinders near the top (but not out of the bore). mark the rods & rod cap orientation & put a piece of rubber hose on each rod bolt.
6. undo the main caps (again, marking everything very carefully)
7. drop the crankshaft out
8. inspect to see what's bad/broken/spun
9. If it's a main, turn the crank & install new main bearings. If it's a rod, recondition that rod & replace the bearings on just that rod & the one next to it.

The real answer is to pull the motor, but I've replaced a spun rod bearing this way many years ago when I had no cash at all.

Yes I already vacumed out the water and oiled (MMO) up the cylinders. Its all cleaned up. I am not sure what to take away from this but the rotating assembly is smooth. I used the starter to see if I could hear or see any damage but if a bearing is scored I doubt that this would give me any indications.....