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Well, I did it this morning.

BeepBeepRR

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Reluctantly installed my 440 into someone elses car. Its a sad day for me. However it went in with no issues. Tomorrow I will wire it up and get it buttoned up. He will need a hood/scoop or swap out the M1 to a dual plane intake. Either way it sits up in the 71 Satellite.

IMG_2499[1].JPG IMG_2502[1].JPG
 
it lives on :thumbsup:
someone will enjoy it :bananadance:

looks good in there too :drinks:
 
I have a few stock style intakes around if he doesn't want to cut the hood.
 
The hood on the car is a disaster any way. It had a glass scoop grafted to it and its missing the inserts and callouts. I told him for weeks the M1 was going to stick up and he was either going to have to cut up the hood or find a flat one and put a 3 inch scoop of some sort on it. So he had that ugly *** hood painted anyway. Well they never listen. We will see what the outcome is in a few days.
 
Here is a question I have. The car I put the 440 in was a 383 car. But the rearend is, I'm pretty sure an 8.25. Wondering how long thats going to last with the 440 twisting it? Did they put the 8.25 behind a big block?
 
Depends on how it's treated. If the 440 was installed for the usual reason, probably not long. I would get ready to sell him a 8 3/4 if you have a spare.
 
I have a 66 8.75 out back. But its I think 59.5 inches and the 71-’74: 63″ inches .. Ya think it will make a ton of difference in that car?


All measurements are from drum to drum: Sorted by length
1966-1972 A-body 57-1/8″
1962-1963 B-body 58-1/2″
1964-1967 B-body 59-1/2″
1970-1971 Imperial 59-3/4″
1968-1970 B-body 60-1/8″
1970-1974 E-body 61-5/8″
1965-1969 C-body and 1965-1970 A100 Vans 61-3/4″
1965-1966 Imperial 62″
1967-1969 Imperial 62-5/16″
1970-1971 C-body and 1971-1974 B-body 63″
1965-1971 D100 pickup 64″
1969 C-body wagon and 1971-1973 B-body wagon 64-3/8″
1970-1973 C-body and 1972-1974 D100 pickup 64-3/8″
 
Maybe someone knows if the spring perches are the same on 71-74 B bodies as the 66-70's. I personally think they are, but not 100% sure. If they are the same you will have no problem bolting everything up. A little on overall width probably won't be a big deal unless you're looking to put really big tires out back. Then you might need a different back spacing on the wheels.
 
Anyone know of a good place to have a driveshaft made? Driveshafts are not easy to come by here. Using Dennysdriveshaft measuring I get 54 3/4 long the output shaft sticks out 3/4 inches and the rear yoke is the smaller 7260 But Id like to have the shaft made with the larger Ujoints and get one of those bastard ujoints that has 2 sizes. So incase the 8.25 grenades I can just swap u joints and a bigger yoke on the 8.75
 
There is a large truck facility within 20 miles of me, that will make driveshafts and also will balance the ones you have. Not sure of the prices.
 
We have AtlantaDriveline which isnt far away I just found them via google. I will call them to see what they say.
Will need the slip yoke ujoints and shaft.. also the ubolts for the smaller yoke on the rearend. There was nothing with this poor car. I told the owner this is where the car will nickle and dime you to death.. Finding missing parts..
 
Here is a question I have. The car I put the 440 in was a 383 car. But the rearend is, I'm pretty sure an 8.25. Wondering how long thats going to last with the 440 twisting it? Did they put the 8.25 behind a big block?
I wouldn't think long. They will last longer if you per load the the car before dropping the hammer on it, brake torquing. It's usually the quick snap of the gas pedal that gets them.
 

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