What All Is Involved In Upgrading To A 100amp Alternator In a 1970 RR

[soundhd]

Need to replace my stock alternator with at least a 100 amp and hopefully a single wire unit with an internal regulator.....going to be adding power windows and an after market stereo to my 1970 RR Convertible (it's a 383 car/automatic) so I will need more amps.
Have seen references to having to take the amp gauge out of the loop and replace it with a volt meter , running a heaver gauge cable from the battery to the starter, a heaver gauge cable from the new alternator to the battery, etc....
Was wondering if anyone can list all things that I will need to change and do, like do I have to remove the old stock voltage regulator? If so what all is involved in doing that and is there anything else that I need to remove and/or change?
Thanks
Just want to make sure I get it right the first time around.......

Note: Not concerned about keeping the "stock" look under the hood.......

Note #2: Already have an aftermarket volt meter mounted under the dash along with a oil
pressure and water temp gauge.

Note #3: Car already has factory A/C. Plans for the power windows are to power them directly from the battery I guess since there are no extra circuits on the very small stock fuse panel.

 

[747mopar]

I did the same, if going with a one wire there isn't much you need to do other than size the wire from the alt to the battery correctly for the 100 amps. How are you wiring in the additions? The factory harnesses don't have a very big main feed so I'd recommend a pos junction block to power the additions. Yes, if running an ammeter 100% of the current has to go threw it in order for it to be accurate "you don't want 100 amps going threw it". A voltmeter is the way to go anyways with the ammeters being fire hazards anyhow. Wiring the voltmeter means just finding a 12V source and hooking into it. You do not need to change the bat to the starter cable "they are huge and are made to handle allot more than 100 amps".

 

[kiwigtx]

Here is a start for you on a headlight upgrade I did recently - it takes the load away from the bulkhead dash harness and light switch;

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...ternator-and-Headlight-relay-upgrades-results

The Circuit breaker I used must be in the circuit before tapping into the power output from the alternator. I have also just had an Ammeter converted to a Voltmeter for my GTX, but will not receive it until mid February I suspect. Cost was $198 to have the gauge converted and also reface the Oil & Fuel gauges. Redline gauges did that work for me.

I can sell you a Relay for the headlights if you want (have some extras coming in next week). All other items you should be able to source from a good local Auto Electrical supplier. I would suggest you consider staying with an external regulator type alternator - and use your existing electronic voltage regulator - keeps a stock look, and it works fine. I used a Powermaster brand 75 Amp External Reg Alternator - works well. Looks stock from most angles - only the diode pack is slightly larger than stock, but its hard to see it without poking around down low
Summit Racing sell those (this is single pulley version) ; http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/pwm-7419/overview/

I run an 800W Amp, but never gets used to its full potential, and headlights on, the Alternator runs just fine.

Let me know if you need more help :headbang:

 

[daredevil]

Some good stuff here on headlight relays one wire alternators,bypassing the amp gauge and wiring thru the bulkhead connector.http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

 

[747mopar]

Here is a start for you on a headlight upgrade I did recently - it takes the load away from the bulkhead dash harness and light switch;

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...ternator-and-Headlight-relay-upgrades-results

The Circuit breaker I used must be in the circuit before tapping into the power output from the alternator. I have also just had an Ammeter converted to a Voltmeter for my GTX, but will not receive it until mid February I suspect. Cost was $198 to have the gauge converted and also reface the Oil & Fuel gauges. Redline gauges did that work for me.

I can sell you a Relay for the headlights if you want (have some extras coming in next week). All other items you should be able to source from a good local Auto Electrical supplier. I would suggest you consider staying with an external regulator type alternator - and use your existing electronic voltage regulator - keeps a stock look, and it works fine. I used a Powermaster brand 75 Amp External Reg Alternator - works well. Looks stock from most angles - only the diode pack is slightly larger than stock, but its hard to see it without poking around down low
Summit Racing sell those (this is single pulley version) ; http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/pwm-7419/overview/

I run an 800W Amp, but never gets used to its full potential, and headlights on, the Alternator runs just fine.

Let me know if you need more help :headbang:

Are you only recommending using an external regulator for looks? I personally prefer internally regulated alternators for they're simplicity and reliability but then again I don't care about originality. Here is the alt I used, it's a Tuff one wire from Summit.

 

[kiwigtx]

Are you only recommending using an external regulator for looks? I personally prefer internally regulated alternators for they're simplicity and reliability but then again I don't care about originality. Here is the alt I used, it's a Tuff one wire from Summit.View attachment 161993

I used the one I recommended purely to save on more wiring loom modifications, and to keep the stock look. It really is personal choice, and if the car is not built to be a stocker, any alternator would work fine.

Just showing what I used and works for me

 

[747mopar]

I used the one I recommended purely to save on more wiring loom modifications, and to keep the stock look. It really is personal choice, and if the car is not built to be a stocker, any alternator would work fine.

Just showing what I used and works for me

Thanks, I was just curious.

 

[Osyman]

I used an alt out of an early 90's ram. I think its 136 amp. Grabbed a pulley off a dakota. Then i got a sunco voltmeter from autozone, disassembled it, drilled two small holes in my ammeter face, popped out the ammeter, screwed the voltmeter in place. You would never notice. Put all the wires on the positive post of the voltmeter, a switched negative to the other post. Used a 1/0 wire from alternator to battery, and added grounds from battery to frame, frame to block, block to volt regulator. Also cleaned bulkhead connector, new engine harness, and rewired everything from scratch on the inside with 8,10, and 12 gauge wire. Grabbed a relay and fuse box out of another dakota. Put the top (convertible), fuel pump, headlights, and stereo (headunit only) on relays.
The stereo has about 1kw, electric fuel pump, and anything i might ever add will never make me worry or the headlights flicker.

 

[Scotty]

Looking at going to an internal regulator alternator as well. Powermaster FAQs recommend running the single output wire of the alternator directly to the battery only. Should I also run a wire through the firewall and do the ammeter bypass? I'm about to pull the instrument cluster from my 69 Coro and the ammeter bypass seems like a logical precaution to take.

Cheers
Scotty