StenTarvo
Member
Im buying a car and I want some photos that can show me what i'm buying so I would like to know what spots to ask for so that I can be more certain that i'm not getting ripped off.
What are some rust spots to look for on a 1978 Magnum and just in general too.
- Thread starter StenTarvo
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StenTarvo
Member
StenTarvo
Member
The car is from new york thats why im worried
slimt
Well-Known Member
Check Manitoba. Theres one there
StenTarvo
Member
towtruckAl
Well-Known Member
It has the same platform as earlier B bodies so the same rust area issues, I found anyway .
StenTarvo
Member
what are the rust areas?
aeon280
Well-Known Member
Trunk, rear spring mounts and rails, front subframe bushing mount area, crossmember and torsion bar frame mount. Also check for rust in fender wells lower quarters and floorboards. Another thing to check is the rear upper shock mount. Lots of these have had air shocks bolted up to them over the years and that has a tendency to crack the upper shock mount area that was never intended to support the full weight of the car.
StenTarvo
Member
THANK YOU!! This is what I needed.
Micah Pohlman
Well-Known Member
Looks like a rolling nightmare to me. Pool noodles covering wires, extra gauges all over the place (why so many, maybe the wiring under the dash if F-ed up), looks like the wiring harness has been messed with under the hood, Accel coil (it'll fry and die soon enough) with universal wires that don't look to be routed anywhere close to correct, I'll bet it doesn't have any kick down linkage with the presumably way too big carb that's on it now and if it does it's not adjusted (I've never seen an aftermarket shifter that hooks up all those pieces right), the hoses don't even go to the heater (why is that bypassed - leak or lazy), the upper rad hose wasn't trimmed when it was put in (it's pushing back towards the air cleaner), all the A/C components are missing, no fan shroud (it'll run hot), missing a window crank on the passenger door (how do you loose that?). The more I look the more I see...
But on the bright side the body doesn't look bad in the pictures at least, it has rear defrost (and the 100amp alt to go with it), it has GT wheels and some other GT trim (is it a real GT?), dash doesn't look to be cracked, the rear bumper shows no sign of rust.
If the under side is solid and you're willing to do a lot of work to undo the aftermarket tsunami under the hood, then the asking price isn't out of line. If it's a real GT then it's worth it.
But on the bright side the body doesn't look bad in the pictures at least, it has rear defrost (and the 100amp alt to go with it), it has GT wheels and some other GT trim (is it a real GT?), dash doesn't look to be cracked, the rear bumper shows no sign of rust.
If the under side is solid and you're willing to do a lot of work to undo the aftermarket tsunami under the hood, then the asking price isn't out of line. If it's a real GT then it's worth it.
StenTarvo
Member
Its a 360, im more worried about rusty body panels and frame over engine and wiring work as that is a lot easier to find parts for.
Slap Stick
Well-Known Member
One other thing-why was the front clip replaced? The stub may be tweaked.
It also appears it has air shocks on it now.
All things mentioned aside from outward appearances it looks good and $4 is reasonable.
It also appears it has air shocks on it now.
All things mentioned aside from outward appearances it looks good and $4 is reasonable.
67charger383
Well-Known Member
Bring a magnet to check for bondo on the lower quarter panels and fender extension right in front of the doors.
And get under the car and knock with your fist all along the frame rails to make sure there isn't any thin/soft spots.
Make sure to look inside of the trunk for rust.
Look up under the dash and watch out for sketchy patched together wiring.
Check the driver and passenger foot areas of the floor pan, because the carpet may be hiding giant rust holes.
Engine looks good from the outside, but you really have to make sure of how well it runs, be thankful that he removed all of the smog and vacuum crap from it.
$4000 is a steal and If I was in any position to buy another car I'd buy it based on the pictures alone, looks like a great driver.
And get under the car and knock with your fist all along the frame rails to make sure there isn't any thin/soft spots.
Make sure to look inside of the trunk for rust.
Look up under the dash and watch out for sketchy patched together wiring.
Check the driver and passenger foot areas of the floor pan, because the carpet may be hiding giant rust holes.
Engine looks good from the outside, but you really have to make sure of how well it runs, be thankful that he removed all of the smog and vacuum crap from it.
$4000 is a steal and If I was in any position to buy another car I'd buy it based on the pictures alone, looks like a great driver.
Tman100
Well-Known Member
Is this the magnum in Manitoba your talking about? $10,000 cdn is about $8200 Us. This car is nice. It is about 20 mins from where I live. Seen it years ago at a show. It’s virgin untouched. Just was driven from time to time. If I had more $$ I’d like to have it. I don’t believe there are any surprises with this car and keep in mind it’s an asking price only. It’s on kijiji under classics in Manitoba.
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