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What drive train makes the most sense for my build, a 1968 Coronet?

Lenny B

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Hello Everyone,

So I'm thinking about what to do as far as the engine and trans for my car, a 1968 Coronet Hardtop with the original 318 engine with an Automatic. Right now I'm in the process of doing all the body work. I'm also currently thinking about what makes the most sense for the engine money wise. I know the car will never be a high dollar car but it will be a really nice rust free car in excellent condition regardless of which setup I go with. After each option I posted what I think the car would be worth. Please post what your thoughts as to the value with the engine setup would be. So far the drivetrain options I have in mind are:

1st Option) rebuild the #s matching 318 and automatic. I would recondition the lower end and the install Aluminum heads, manifold, cam, carb, etc.... The car would be about a 325ish HP car. Money wise the engine would cost about $6000 to do. The trans I would rebuild myself along with the rear end which would be a 3.55 gear with sure grip. This option woold be the least money invested because I already have it. I would hope to be able to sell the car for $20K to $25K.

2nd Option) Buy a donor 383 car for about $1500 to $2000. I would recondition the lower end and the install Aluminum heads, manifold, cam, carb, etc.... similar to the small block mentioned in option #1. The car would be about a 425ish HP car. Money wise the engine would cost about $6000 to do. The trans I would rebuild myself along with the rear end which would be a 3.55 gear with sure grip. This option would cost a bit more because I would have to buy the donor car. I would hope to be able to sell the car also for $20K to $25K also.

3rd option) Buy a Modern 392 Hemi Crate engine and Modern Automatic with Overdrive (485 HP). This option would cost a lot more than options 1 and 2, probably at least $30K more and would require a lot of customization. Not sure what a restomod like this would sell for. I would think if I did a really nice job it would be in the $30 to $35 range.

What option do you think makes the most sense?
So far in my mind option #1 is the easiest and least expensive, and it keeps the car somewhat #s matching. On the down side, it would still be a 318 car. Option 2 is also not that hard to achieve and actually sounds the best to me because of the idea of having an old school Big Block and it's not to difficult to make it work. Addition cost compared to option 1 would be around $3 to $4K. Option #3 sounds cool but would cost a lot more to make happen and I may be in over my head technically with that one.

What do you think? Below is what I envision for the build to look like:

black-02.jpg black-03.jpg
 
Thinking about option 2, the donor car is unnecessary; just find a decent 383 block and rotating assembly for a few hundred $$? Heck, you're in mid-America, you should be tripping over them.

This gets me to option 2a) a 440 will cost you pennies more than a 383, will get you much more bang for the buck both in performance as well as resale cache.

However, if your budget even allows you to mention option 3 to the wife, no use fooling around with options 1 and 2 at all. Though, I might suggest a low mileage used modern hemi as many have done here.
 
2nd Option) Buy a donor 383 car for about $1500 to $2000. I would recondition the lower end and the install Aluminum heads, manifold, cam, carb, etc.... similar to the small block mentioned in option #1. The car would be about a 425ish HP car. Money wise the engine would cost about $6000 to do. The trans I would rebuild myself along with the rear end which would be a 3.55 gear with sure grip. This option would cost a bit more because I would have to buy the donor car. I would hope to be able to sell the car also for $20K to $25K also.

For you to make it look as nice as the Bee pictured above, you will have far more into it than it will ever be worth. However, if it is a clone that you want, get a nice used 383, or you can go with a 440. Both will cost pretty much the same money to build. However, I think that your estimate of getting 425 hp out of a 383 with only a carb manifold & aluminum heads is a bit optimistic.

Lastly, whatever you estimate what your budget is going to be, throw on an additional 40% to get to "the real" cost.
 
#2 with 440 ..your investment will be secure at that price .. it may not be how you look at the expense of your hobby car, its just how I do being a gray beard... 318 # car may be something you would be interested in, but if the time comes to sell it, there will be a smaller market wanting a 318 matching number car, and 25k for it may not be realistic .. that 440 will be the anchor to getting your investment back, and a hell of a lot more enjoyment while you have it.
 
Like I tell everyone else... don't waste time and money with intermediate improvements of the drive train. A 440 is the realistic top dog engine, so spend your money on that. Too many guys spend too much money building up small blocks, 383s, and 400s, and then decide to get a 440 down the road and they end up selling their engine for pennies on the dollar. Go 440 from the start and you'll get, and keep, your money's worth.
 
Build it like you plan on keeping it forever. I would go the 440 option if you plan on cloning a RT. If your just happy to be tooling around in a Cornet, buy a 360 to rebuild with an OD tranny with 3.73 gears. You'll be able to drive it anywhere and get decent mileage. I doubt there's more than 2K difference between option 1 & 2 (depending on heads).
If you're looking to flip it to make money good luck with that, I've found usually that's harder than you think. If you're looking to flip it very few people want anything less than a 440 for 25K. Just my 2 cents.
 
Yah, the more I think about it, option #2 with a 440 makes the most sense to me also. The cost isn't that great, parts are available, it's not overly complicated, it will be fast, and it will sound good. I'm not looking to flip the car, just want a nice weekend cruiser that I can sell if I have to.

Thanks Everyone ~ Lenny B
 
Option lll. With All Aluminum new Hemi. Youll match the BB performance and be pushing 200+ lbs LESS weight over the front wheels......better handling, less tire & brake wear up there.
 
I like the modern HEMI option but bang for your buck the 440 is a no brainer. If you leave the 318 the first thing most would be buyers are going to think is "how much will I have to invest to get a BB in there"? 318s are great motors but nobody wants a small.. small block in a muscle car.

As far as engine cost goes aluminum heads are not necessary to make good hp (500+) with a BB. I've got $4,500 in my stroker.
 
I would recommend a 440. A 318 will not give you much performance unless you go with really fancy & expensive parts. You can do a fairly tame 440 that has good street power at fairly low cost. More power even with a 440 gets expensive & durability could get to be an issue.

Also a 727 properly built can't be beat & doesn't take fancy parts for less than 500 HP.
 
Oh my GOD!!!!!

Nothing less than a 440!
OR do what I did and go 426+ Hemi
Use the Schumacher motor mounts, that way you can use your stock K-member

A car that good looking HAS GOT TO BE BAD-*** FAST!
 
I now feel like the red- headed step child.
I'm a die hard B engine nut. I've put together 383's for budget builds with basic basic parts (906, 452, mild port,9.6 comp)- 425hp all day long.
A step up is a 451stroker, latest build that never made it to my car. What a sneaky sleeper, alum head, painted, looked stock. Just a tick under 580 hp.
Don't underestimate a B engine....
I won't say who bought it, but if you're on the eastern seaboard beware of a certain 2 door post Valiant- it's gonna surprise ya!
 
Put a 500 inch motor based on 440 rb block together.

Bolt on some trick flow heads and be done with it.
 
The Coronet R/T you pictured most likely had a 440. You can buy a decent crate 440 from Indy or a fellow member here for a reasonable price.
If you go this route and make the car an R/T tribute that would be sweeet!
 
Gee I have a 500" EDE Performer RPM motor on the stand & a 440 +.030 TRW disassembled sitting here.
 
Another vote for the 440...just keep in mind you will need to(should) upgrade the entire drivetrain, you will need a 727 & proper converter, different driveline, 440-car suspension is the right thing to do as well as the rear axle as you more than likely have a 741 unit with no sure grip and highway gears which negate the horsepower gain for the most part(again that would work with a conversion ujoint as long as you're not getting too much motor but with a 440, that's so easy to do lol) your budget will go beyond your expectation going the big-block route(ask me how I know ugh!) A 318 with a few mods, while not a 1/4mile pounder can still be a nice driver with decent getup...the 'cool' factor is already there because it's a mopar b-body!
 
Beanhead makes really good points. I've been a big block guy forever, but you do need to consider the whole package. A fairly mild 440 is great on the street, but you do need the 727 (nothing really fancy), a quality 10" converter makes all the difference & limited slip rear, HD driveshaft & U joints, Good leaf springs (XHD or home made equal). Even with a modified 318 you need the drivetrain parts. Good luck.
 
Ok, have to agree with the MILD 440 route for a heavy B body that otherwise hasn't been lightened/ or otherwise modified for high RPM use. If you really want to street drive a B body use the RB and prior recommendations on converter, rear (3:55 are a good choice for street) etc.
But one thing- upgrade your brakes
Everybody worries about go- it's the whoa that gets you in trouble. I'm guessing your ride has the smaller drum brakes?
If you're lucky, maybe front Disc's?
Bringing a heavy B Body down after a "I'll show em what it can do" run is no fun.
 
Ok, have to agree with the MILD 440 route for a heavy B body that otherwise hasn't been lightened/ or otherwise modified for high RPM use. If you really want to street drive a B body use the RB and prior recommendations on converter, rear (3:55 are a good choice for street) etc.
But one thing- upgrade your brakes
Everybody worries about go- it's the whoa that gets you in trouble. I'm guessing your ride has the smaller drum brakes?
If you're lucky, maybe front Disc's?
Bringing a heavy B Body down after a "I'll show em what it can do" run is no fun.
 
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