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Whats in the orange box ?

twecomm

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For those of you electronically inclined that would like to know whats really in the ECU, or orange box of the electronic ignition system, here is a schematic of the "Orange Box". I think that the KEY to the way this circuit works is the UJ-1 device which is a " Programmable Uni-junction Transistor". Reading up on this device, it is basically a switching device, but a programmable and accurate one, in that when triggered, it will always provide a repeatable on/off cycle duration. This devices switching function is not affected by voltage variations in the cars electrical / charging system.
The pickup device in the distributor is triggered by the "reluctor", a star wheel that creating pulses with rotation in the pickup coil. When a point of the star aligns with the pickup device, a trigger pulse is sent to the orange box on pin on "C". The orange box circuitry amplifies this pulse, shapes it to be of consistent duration ( UJ-1) , and turns on, or causes to "conduct" the large silver Q-3 power transistor which is visible on the heat sink on the outside of the orange box case. This power transistor is basically completing, or switching the ignition coils minus (-) terminal to the cars chassis ( Ground) to induce, or switch, and complete the path to ground, of the ignition coils primary winding. This pulsing DC applied to the coil steps up battery volts to several thousand volts to make the spark that the distributor sends to the plugs. Basically the large power transistors emitter (E) to collector (C) junction provides a switched path to ground, much as the points type distributor did. And, yes, you should carry a spare ....

DSC03253.JPG Mopar_Ignition0002.JPG
 
This is a fabulous description of how this works for us dummy's that really don't get electrons. Presumably the Blue boxs, Chrome boxs, etc work the same, only with a quicker/higher RPM capability..
 
What is in the orange box?
Disappointment. Frustration. Unpredictability. It should have a processor that immediately notifies nearby tow truck drivers the moment that it fails.
 
The reason I dissected this one is that it failed ! If it fails you're screwed, so can't necessarily disagree with Kern Dog. Being curious, had nothing to loose cutting it apart. Talking to others at car shows, I find it interesting there are those that say these have worked fine for 30+ years or more with no issues. This particular one came with the Mopar ignition kit I had installed some 6 years ago. Put car in the garage one day, next day wouldn't start. It was the dreaded orange box. Carry a spare.
 
Maybe something special back in the day but now Its best replaced by a HEI system.
 
I had them in several vehicles over the years but never had one fail. Maybe I was lucky?!?
 
I couldn't have explained that any better myself...seriously didn't know any of that. I also have never had one fail..but then again never had one. From what i have been reading on here hei must be heads and shoulders above those.
 
I've had 'em for 30+ years also without a failure....but yes, there's a couple more sitting in the spares box, too. :thumbsup:
Having worked on many an old GM product with the HEI setups, I HAVE seen those fail, however.
Always the ignition control module that lays down on those.
Methinks having the "brains" of the ignition system away from a major source of heat (the engine) is a good idea,
but what do I know?
 
That diagram is really great!

The reason why they fail is the power transitor and is replaceable without open it, just a cut at the epoxy to melt the lead and sold the new one back.

That specific ECU got those internals, but they got changes allong the years so that diagram could or could not meet some other orange modules ;). I have disected two diff generation chromed ones and they were diff.

Will seach the thread I made at DC.COM about that when I fixed one.

The next reason why they begin to fail, and maybe why the power transistor fails is the bad ground at PCB with case. A friend of mine decided to add a ground wire straight to to the PCB on back of all ECUs he gets, and attaches tomthe mounting bolt
 
Only if you switch from the mopar box to a HEI setup will you know the difference. Been there got the t-shirt.

Now if I was building a correct car I would stay with the mopar system.
 
Saw the post of the HEI conversion over in general tech discussion dept. If I have another failure, think I would seriously consider going that route.
 
Pertronix for several years now .. last orange box lasted 1yr, no more for me ... considered hei, just don't see the advantage. A buddy of mine converted over to hei, now he runs pertronix and said it's more responsive...
 
been having a lot of issues with pertonix on the British stuff, i won't sell them any more i get the client to buy it they want me to install it
so if your working on your car and ignitions is on i would disconnect the Power to it just incase.
 
dizzy.gif
It's all PFM to me.

The orange box in my car failed shortly after I bought it, but I had a bad OEM regulator that was overcharging and was told by someone on this site that they DO NOT like overcharging. Replaced it along with a Wells VR706 regulator and have had no problems .............so far........... but I do carry a spare.
 
Nice explaination, thanks! I heard enough bad about new orange boxes that I went Pertronix on both my B bodies. Both are running single wire alt, ballast resistor removed, Pertronix coil and solid state black box. I like the simplicity and clean look in the engine bay. They are hooked up in old point style distributors.
 
That diagram is really great!

The reason why they fail is the power transitor and is replaceable without open it, just a cut at the epoxy to melt the lead and sold the new one back.

That specific ECU got those internals, but they got changes allong the years so that diagram could or could not meet some other orange modules ;). I have disected two diff generation chromed ones and they were diff.

Will seach the thread I made at DC.COM about that when I fixed one.

The next reason why they begin to fail, and maybe why the power transistor fails is the bad ground at PCB with case. A friend of mine decided to add a ground wire straight to to the PCB on back of all ECUs he gets, and attaches tomthe mounting bolt
Here we go again- always check your grounds. Can’t be said often enuf!
 
I should have prefaced my statement by saying that I currently own nothing but older orange boxes.
Yes, I've read also about the issues with the ones made in recent years.
Fortunately, I always had a stash of ones made in the 80's or even older - a couple of which are brand new
never used (because I bought them for backup and then never needed them).
I have some generic NAPA one lying around somewhere too, no idea why. Must have "inherited" it in some
parts stash somewhere. For grins, I hooked it up once and it worked fine as well, so I kept it.
 
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