Whats Involved With Converting To A Single Wire Alternator (70 RR-383 Auto)

[soundhd]

I have a 70 Roadrunner Convt. (383; Auto; PS/PB; A/C) Would like to switch over to a single wire internal regulated alternator with high amperage (95 amps...have added an aftermarket stereo system and power windows). Just wondering what all has to be done to convert besides running the correct size wire from the alternator to the battery. Assume the stock voltage regulator has to come out. What about the ceramic resistor and the ignition module that are also mounted on the firewall?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Zeppelin264]

All I did was bypass the amp meter and ditched the old voltage regulator. I think you have to get rid of the ballast resistor as well, which would mean something like an MSD box/electronic dist.

 

[soundhd]

All I did was bypass the amp meter and ditched the old voltage regulator. I think you have to get rid of the ballast resistor as well, which would mean something like an MSD box/electronic dist.

So your saying that I cannot convert to a single wire alternator with out replacing the whole ignition system (like an MSD)?

 

[moparnation74]

I could be wrong but I thought all you had to do is ground the other lead......

 

[Yatzee]

I have a 70 Roadrunner Convt. (383; Auto; PS/PB; A/C) Would like to switch over to a single wire internal regulated alternator with high amperage (95 amps...have added an aftermarket stereo system and power windows). Just wondering what all has to be done to convert besides running the correct size wire from the alternator to the battery. Assume the stock voltage regulator has to come out. What about the ceramic resistor and the ignition module that are also mounted on the firewall?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

Go here:
https://www.google.ca/search?q=one+...sCFkQsAQIJQ&biw=1344&bih=701&dpr=1.25#imgrc=_

Find the pic that resembles the connections of the alternator you bought and connect as shown. You can remove the old voltage regulator and use it's switched ignition wire to feed the alternator ignition terminal. I recommend a new 10ga wire be run from the alternator to the battery. Don't forget to pickup the wire that went to your amp meter (if you had one)and tie it into the alternator out put wire at the fuse holder. Best to mount a heavy fuse holder on the frame just below the alternator ( fuse should be 10% lower in value than the output of the alternator) and run the alt output into one end of the fuse holder and the outputs (battery and amp meter feed) attach to the other side of the fuse holder. The blade style fuses mounted in a small plastic box can be had at any auto parts store. You can use 12 ga wire to the amp meter by splicing into the original feed wire but be sure to use a good connector and solder, but leave the battery feed a 8 ga wire. Best to bypass the amp meter if your going above 65 amp alternator. Do not remove the ballast as it has nothing to do with the charging system, rather ignition. Use ONLY this style fuse holder and pick the right value fuse:

https://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-2...3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1505501703&sr=1-33

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

A “single wire” internally regulated aftermarket alternator requires only a switched power source to function. You can remove the original external regulator if you wish, use the existing blue field wire, omit the green. If you don’t want to change the field wiring, get a dual field aftermarket 100 alternator, i.e. Tuff Stuff 8509, designed as an externally regulated direct replacement. Charging system has nothing to do with the ignition system in this case