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What's the difference?

Amata Bene

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Hey Y'all. So, I'm getting to the stage of prepping and then throw some paint on my engine bay. I like to save money whenever possible, we all do. My question is this; What is the difference between "acetone" and other brand specific paint prep solvents?
 
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Other solvents may have other ingredients which may or may not include acetone. It should do what you need though and save you some $$ too. It evaporates very quickly though.
 
I would spend the money on a gallon of prep solvent. Acetone will evaporate so quickly that you are left with a dry residue. The prep solvent has enough hang time to keep the grime in a suspended state and let you wipe it off. Same with lacquer thinner. It flashes off too quickly and it has th potential to lift paint if left on too long.

The last I bought, prep solvent wasn’t terribly more expensive than prep solvent. You will be surprised on how far a gallon will take you.
 
Hey Y'all. So, I'm getting to the stage of prepping and then throw some paint on my engine bay. I like to save money whenever possible, we all do. My question is this; What is the difference between "acetone" and other brand specific paint prep solvents?
Lacquer thinner usually evaporates a little slower, and often is more aggressive at removing oils, and will also soften and remove laquer based or non-hardened enamel paints. Lacquer thinner is a mixture of various solvents, and actually contains acetone as well as (usually) toluene and methanol.

Acetone itself evaporates faster, and also mixes with water so it's useful for removing moisture in cracks.

I usually have both on hand.
 
Paint prep solvents won't attack the surface you are prepping. Acetone and lacquer thinner will be trying to remove the paint you are wiping and may destroy the surface you are wiping.


Short answer, buy the right product for the job for a good end result.
 
Acetone can potentially attack existing coatings if any are there, and will evaporate so quickly you won't have very much time to clean. What you could potentially get away with really depends on the surface you're working on. I wouldn't recommend trying to get away with anything on an important project....
 
So, let's add MEK to the question. The only reason I ask, is because I have these products on hand. I use them quite often for cleaning on my fabrication work and welding repairs in my shop. Both are fine for the paint it so it don't rust method, usually grey or red oxide primer or black rattle can. Final paint is left to the customer.
I am not mixing either one with primer or paint for my car. Those will be mixed using and as the instruction say. Never been a paint and body guy, but now I'm learning. Better late than never.
 
I have done a couple patches and addressed a few rusty areas with the welder, cleaned and quick rattle can primer to stop flash rust. Now I'm getting ready to hydro blast with glass bead. The car is stripped from fenders forward including the firewall, save the steering column. That is needed to push the car in and out of the shop for now. After blasting, it will be thoroughly pressure washed, blown out and off with compressed air then clean the bare surface for a coat of rust encapsulator and the on to primer, filler, yada, yada, and paint.
Like I said, not a paint and body guy. This is all new to me. I used to just be concerned about going faster. Now I want to look good doing it.
 
This is what I'm working on.

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You are doing alot of work there. Now do you want to to turn out good? Or look like a passing grade high school shop project?

Read the directions on the rust encapsulator. Many say do not use on blasted metal, so check yours. And I don't like all the water on bare metal. Recipe for disaster.
 
Whether I use lacquer thinner or acetone , I clean and clean again with degreaser type detergents and rinse well. Dry with clean cloths and inspect them. Finally I’ll use one of those solvents before painting
 
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