• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Wheel hub problem's

blue69runner

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
6:01 PM
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Messages
1,529
Reaction score
1,870
Location
Lake Wales Fl.
So think I read here some where that the studs where not drilled right from the factory on after market hub. My front brake shoe's scrub in one place. Had the drum's turned and they where not perfect and not round. So now think it must be a hub problem. The wheel turn's free till one point then get's tight in the brake shoe. Both side's are doing this. Have violent shaking in the front when braking. Been a mechanic for a long time and just frustrated with this after market junk we get. Guess these are bug's we have to work out. Any one know if this could be true let me know. Got the hub's from Summit racing. Blue.
 
So think I read here some where that the studs where not drilled right from the factory on after market hub. My front brake shoe's scrub in one place. Had the drum's turned and they where not perfect and not round. So now think it must be a hub problem. The wheel turn's free till one point then get's tight in the brake shoe. Both side's are doing this. Have violent shaking in the front when braking. Been a mechanic for a long time and just frustrated with this after market junk we get. Guess these are bug's we have to work out. Any one know if this could be true let me know. Got the hub's from Summit racing. Blue.
are your drums pressed on the hubs with the studs as original? if not I don't see how you will achieve a true cut of the drum.
 
I had no idea anyone was making the hubs for our front drum brakes?
 
are your drums pressed on the hubs with the studs as original? if not I don't see how you will achieve a true cut of the drum.
Yes. Read some where that another person ran into this problem with the stud's in the hub where not drilled proper and make the drum scrub the brake pad at one point. He had a machine company drill new holes and every thing was fine. Thought I read this some where here.
 
I had no idea anyone was making the hubs for our front drum brakes?
Got mine form Summit. But beware of after market part's. If I could have found a good set of original ones might have bought them. Thinking going new was the answer. Who knew this could be the problem with the front end shaking when braking.
 
Got mine form Summit. But beware of after market part's. If I could have found a good set of original ones might have bought them. Thinking going new was the answer. Who knew this could be the problem with the front end shaking when braking.
Are you talking about drums or hubs here?
 
Just called summit racing and ordered them. But found that the drum's where not round and had them turned to true them up. Now know it is not a drum problem think it is the hub that is giving me the problem. Some where I read that another guy had this problem and took the hub to his machinist and they found the wheel stud's where off. So they drilled the hub to correct the problem and all was good.
 
Nobody makes an aftermarket hub for these cars and their 11" drum brakes that I've ever
seen, so unless you can produce a part number or link....
 
Well my bad. Must have used the old one. If they where not bad that is what I did. But I bought so much new stuff and it has been a while since doing them guess I forgot. LOL. I know you had done your research when doing your brake job. So now this makes me think the drum's are still my problem. Shoot.
 
Went through a similar situation, with improper, removal of hub from drum , to replace old rusty lug bolts , as we now know, the hub and drums were a factory assembly, not serviced separately! Having mine turned after bolt, replacement, resulted in this same issue! My solution was to install, disc on frt , using the slider calipers and new spindles as a complete package! Worked out great, but involved m/c replace as well ! That was my experience with this problem! Hope this helps !
 
It could also be the shoes. In the good old days, shoes were "arced" to match the size of the drums. You had your drums turned, so there must be someone around with a brake lathe. I haven't seen a shoe arcing machine for forty years.
For what it's worth, if I still thought the drums were bad, I'd turn them inside out, bolt them to the hubs, and put a dial indicator on them. That way you check the hub and drum.
 
In , answer to your arc shoe surfacing, could find no one in my area , that would do this any longer, but remember, in my young days working at dealers , that it was customary to do that to get a smooth stop on shoe replacement! The best , I got it was to pull back down at , sand the high spots on shoes , to help shoe conform to drums ! So , he is very correct about his statement!
 
I have turned about 5 drum/hub assemblies for a member here. You need to put the drum on the hub with lug nuts, and tighten them, then turn the drums so it is in a running condition. You must keep the drum/hub assy in the same orientation as when turned when you put it on the car and install the wheel. If you just turn the new drum and install it on the hub, it is really no different that just putting the new drum on.
 
Hey Russ, when I did a brake job on my car I went with after market drums. Got some violent shaking when I applied the brakes. Went back to the stock drums and the problem went away. I couldn’t tell you why but thought I’d throw that out there.
 
Hey Russ, when I did a brake job on my car I went with after market drums. Got some violent shaking when I applied the brakes. Went back to the stock drums and the problem went away. I couldn’t tell you why but thought I’d throw that out there.
It's a shame, but you almost have to assume the new Chinese drums will need to be turned. You might as well turn your old drums.
The problem is if your old drums are gonna end up oversize, finding someone to turn them anyway.
 
Is the center hole in the drum tight to the hub, it should be near zero? If not don't think you'll solve your problem with what you have.
 
It's a shame, but you almost have to assume the new Chinese drums will need to be turned. You might as well turn your old drums.
The problem is if your old drums are gonna end up oversize, finding someone to turn them anyway.

I agree with your first part, but disagree with your last. Yes, I would say 9 times out of 10, you need to touch up new chinese drums/rotors. And yes, if your old drums are not below spec, by all means, turn them. Now if you asked and found a shop to turn your drums/rotors that are below spec, LEAVE. I will NEVER turn any drum/rotor that is at or below the discard spec due to liability issues. While you promise not to hold the shop responsible if you have any issues, the lawyer for that family of 5 you just killed because your brakes went out is NOT going to care about what you told the shop. I always refuse to turn out of spec drums/rotors because it is not worth the risk of killing anyone or the lawsuit award to merely save a $100'ish...
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top