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Wheel studs for rear axle

Wietse

Wietse

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Hey all,

Not long ago i ordered some new wheel studs to use on the rear axle and get rid of the L/H ones.
Now received and looking at them they are different then what came out, i am assuming these new ones can only be used on the front (with disc brakes) of my car.
See the picture, can i use these instead on my 8-3/4" rear axle?
I am quite sure they never will fully engage against the drive shaft flange as the knurl does not run until the end.

image1.jpg
 
If you can, when installing the replacements, as you have them in the hole, turn them to feel the old knurled marks and then pull them through.

If you don't like what you have, Dorman handles hundreds of studs. You'll need a set of calipers to do your measurements. Napa has a lot of Dorman studs. I've gone on NAPA's website, entered the vehicle, and looked up the studs. The measurements will be under the description of the stud. Or you can go to Dorman and search your measurements. The stud does have a number or letters stamped on the back also but don't always cross reference.

What you have there should be ok. As long as after they're installed they are tight and not loose. A loose stud might fall out when putting your wheel back on or spin when tightening or removing. One cure if that happens is to weld them from the back. I even found some studs that the knurled area measured undersized. It's what you get now days.

The shoulder on the stud also protrudes through the brake drum, just even with the surface. I like to see that fitment also.
 
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Ok thx guys, good info.
Last thing i would need is to damage anything that causes the studs not to be tight, or loose a wheel while driving :(
Once i've swapped the front wheels with the new ones i can start on the rears :)

Hope they fit though....
 
Rear Studs are Dorman 610-103 RH and 104LH. As Long at the Knurl dia is .637" and the Shoulder Length 9/16" they will work. Length from inside of stud head to end of thread is 1 19/32" give or take.
 
I checked several times but my knurl diameter is .665".
Then again, what came out can go back in...:eek:
Maybe..there are certain non-car related things in life where this does not apply on :rofl:
 
Are the front different from the rear studs?
I want to run a 1/4" spacer behind my new wheels to compensate the offset difference with the old wheels.
I need some longer studs for this but i have a feeling the fronts are different?
Driver side has the 2 piece OEM rotor, passenger side has a 1 piece aftermarket rotor, i got the idea the knurl area is longer.
 
Yes, I have been doing some work on this for some disc brakes and recently comparing some NOS studs against the Dorman catalog.

Rear are different. Pretty much all rear drums for the 1/2" Stud were 610-103/4. Like 1958 and up. 4 dimensions matter:
A= thread dia in this case 1/2"
B=Stud length from the inside of the head to the end of the thread. Not overall stud length
C= Knurl Dia
D=Shoulder Length which is inside of head to the end of the shoulder, sometimes this is the start of the thread, but others may have a taper to the thread.

Rear Drum is B= 1 19/32"; C=.673" and D= 9/16" This shoulder goes through axle and into the drum, then thread starts.

Front Drum Motor Wheel 10" is a 610-039/40
B is same 1 19/32" but C is only .625" and D= 23/32" Longer shoulder with full length of Knurl, vice a non knurl area on the shoulder.

MW 11" are 610-132/33
B is 1 5/8"; C=.650" and D is 11/16"

Budd Drum is 610-122
B= 1 9/16"; C=.650" and D=5/8"

By the way there was a separate Rear stud for Chrysler and Dodge Truck. 610-036/7 This was 67-69 Chrysler
C Knurl was .645" with D=1/2"

Disc Brakes are a whole different stud and much longer. Bendix 67-69 was a 610-136/7
B= 1 3/4; C =.637" and D 13/16" with knurl at end of shoulder where it would engage the hub. Rotor is under hub on 2 piece

70-72 Kelsey Hayes is a 610-151
B 1 15/16", C= .622" and D 15/16"
 
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so, i will need a stud with following specs:

B=2", C=.637", D=13/16 (A 610-136 but 1/4" longer)
My new wheels, incl. 1/4" spacer only leave around 3 threads for the nut to go on.
So an extra 1/4" length should do the job, but i did not manage to find anything longer than 1-3/4".
 
1/4" Might not matter. You can go to Dorman site and search on 1/2 Wheel stud. Then select a year like 69 or 70. You will get about 4 pages of results that you can look through. They do have some modern type numbers that may work.
 
I think i need to check mine first, i have a doubt they are 1-3/4" long.
I wonder where the knurl sits, in the hub or the rotor?
Rotor sits behind the hub (looking from outside of the car) so guess the knurl holds on the rotor and keeps it secured against the hub.
As the 1-piece rotor is different again, i better remove 1 on each side and measure everything before ordering anything.
 
For rear the knurl is at the head of the stud to bit into hub. For a front disc, since the hub is out, the knurl is at the end of the shoulder near the thread. In fact for the stud, the shoulder has two diameters. A larger one at the Stud head which fits into the rotor, and the smaller at the hub with a knurl. Once you press the stud out, the knurl drops through the rotor hole easily.

A one piece probably is like a Rear stud, since your biting into the hub and rotor as one.
 
I better check first they did not put anything else in there, for all i know they drilled out the holes and put another size in there :)
 
Reviving an old thread...
First, thanks for the info here, I've had a hard time finding the right studs to replace one on my 8 3/4, I finally got the 610-103 mentioned above and it's snug but I was able to get it ALMOST all the way in. It lacks 1/4" at most-- none of the splines are visible. The old open ended lug nut I was using ended up stripping out. I can't get it to go any further. I tried a C-clamp, my biggest impact gun.. still can't get it. Should I try a press like this? https://www.amazon.com/Nickson-17350-Clamp-Stud-1-3/dp/B000COX90M or a ball joint press or borrow a bigger gun?

I hate to pull the axle just for this, any suggestions?
 
It has to be in to the max. I find that the long way is usually the best way-pull the axle, press the stud the rest of the way in.
Mike
 
I'd double check the diameter of the knurled section. It should be the same as the ones you removed. If its too big it's not going in.

Having replaced them before, I'll insert the stud and turn it just a little to feel and line up the original knurl marks. Then useing a stack of washers over the stud, I'll use a lug nut threaded on backwards and run it on with a impact gun to draw the stud into the flange. Use a little grease on the knurl and the threads.
 
khryslerkid said:
I'd double check the diameter of the knurled section. It should be the same as the ones you removed. If its too big it's not going in.

Having replaced them before, I'll insert the stud and turn it just a little to feel and line up the original knurl marks. Then useing a stack of washers over the stud, I'll use a lug nut threaded on backwards and run it on with a impact gun to draw the stud into the flange. Use a little grease on the knurl and the threads.
Click to expand...

I did measure originally but the splines were so smashed down I don't think it was very accurate. I tried a slightly bigger knurl than what I measured and it just spun. I don't have the measurement in front of me but this .673 is quite a bit bigger, so maybe it is too big. I'll try a bit of grease too and if I still fail I'll take Mike's advice and pull the axle
 
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