Where to buy an amp gauge or volt gauge for a 73 Rally Dash....

[bandit67]

Ok, Guys, so now I know why the gauge cluster was falling out of the dash on the 73 I purchased years ago. Just got the whole dash removed and taken apart for refurbishing. Seems a PO in the past had the dreaded loose wire, meltdown of the Amp gauge system. Their solution was to cut the red and black wires to the gauge itself, remove the guts of the amp gauge and glue only the faceplate to Rally pack housing. I want something working to go back in.

I have read all 14 threads with 956 pages of "To amp gauge by pass or not to by pass" and think I can safely get that back working correct and safe. BUT, seems I cannot find a replacement unit being sold by any body or a direct bolt in volt gauge. So, to y'all , I am asking , who s got the replacements. With what I found, seems folks were buying whatever they could find , taking them apart and custom fitting some of the pieces into the gauge clusters. Is there any replacements out there for direct drop ins.......thanks.....

 

[Sixpactogo]

If you want them to read correctly, send your whole gauge panel to Shannon Hudson at Redline Gauge works in Calif. He will make them better than new. As for the amp gauge, have him convert it to volts. The Amp gauges have burned down many mopars in the past. If yours burned up the gauge, your firewall plug and wiring will probably need some attention too. There are a few others out there that can help you out too. Redline is the one I use and am familiar with.

 

[bandit67]

Yes, the bulkhead has damage and it s all out and will be made workable/reliable at this time. There is nothing left of the amp gauge except the face plate that was glued in place , and I m sure that will be destroyed when removed.....just need a replacement, and was hoping I could find a drop in. I can find several NOS units on flea bay.....but all are for non Rally gauge packs...

 

[Nacho-RT74]

What about get this, and change the face?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-2958...921174&hash=item56bf35ad8f:g:LG8AAOSw6dle4kEj


I guess you are searching the one for clock/tach cluster which gets ammeter with needle pointing down. It would need to get the needle trimmed though.

 

[bandit67]

Thanks Nacho, I have found quite a few NOS units on Flea bay , but appears they will all need to be custom fitted to my Rally cluster. If this is my only option , what do you think about the 80 amp meter made for police cars, found one of those......

 

[Nacho-RT74]

that would be a nice idea IF your cluster is with the ammeter pointing up ( non tach or clock )

Myself, I have this extra face from a cluster I got with a virtually destroyed ammeter ( somebody damaged trying to remove it in the past )

and pretty sure I could make fit that face on this ammeter

the gap between rivets seems to be the same.


and ACTUALLY I'm positivelly thinking the only diff between diff ammeters is just the face, the needle index and lenght ( I can see this would need some reshaping too, due the diff opening heigh if you can meet the rivets location ). Aside the magnet calibration ( 40, 50, 60 or 80 ), but I meant phisically.

I must say I NEVER HAVE MADE THIS ( so please don't take my word as a rule! ), but I think is doable. Is about match the face height and studs

 

[Nacho-RT74]

now, if your Rallye cluster is the standard one with the gas/oil gauge into the big opening at a side of speedo you use this ammeter with needle pointing up:

( yes, I know, $195 from hiltopap. For a bit more you get a full cluster )

and get this one made to fit into back of the face, as mentioning, trimming the needle. Rivet gaps should be also about the same

( there is one used in $9.95 )

Or even better, an 80 amps one as you mentioned

HOWEVER, must to say the only difference will be the needle calibration by the magnet on back, but studs are NOT reinforced to the load. They are built exactly the same than 40 amps ones.

these also exist in 60 amps rate, which I think is way than enough. As I have told in many threads, a battery won't suck EVER 80 amps to be recharged!!!... on an initial moment can suck 40 amps for a few seconds ( or couple of minutes ) from death stage, but it uses to be sat into 20-25 amps average and going down once the power is stable.

and with engine off... how much devices you will turn on to need read discharge 80 amps? ( even 60 )

 

[Nacho-RT74]

on a side note there are couple of standard Rallye clusters ( with the ammeter pointing up ) in $200 on ebay. If that's your one, you could buy, get the ammeter removed and sell the rest, instead buy the NOS ammeter one. Will get back some of the investment

 

[bandit67]

Thanks Nacho, mine is a standard Rally, no tach of clock. So I think you are saying that my original meter had the needle pointing up, and that is what I should be looking for. Will look at some old clusters and new OEM units and decide which route to go......

 

[Paul_G]

I found this one in my stash. Points down. Not what you need I guess.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Thanks Nacho, mine is a standard Rally, no tach of clock. So I think you are saying that my original meter had the needle pointing up, and that is what I should be looking for. Will look at some old clusters and new OEM units and decide which route to go......

From the distance that one is easier to find and also to make the face change using the standard cluster one.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I found this one in my stash. Points down. Not what you need I guess.

View attachment 1002033

It seems you have a little gem there now LOL

 

[Paul_G]

It seems you have a little gem there now LOL

I had to do what you stated earlier in this thread. I bought cheap or cut up clusters until I got all the parts I needed.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I did the same untill get the parts to build a non fixed Rallye kilometer speedo. Hence the reason I have some extra parts too ( minus the amm, but just the face on pic)

 

[wvmarv]

Ok, Guys, so now I know why the gauge cluster was falling out of the dash on the 73 I purchased years ago. Just got the whole dash removed and taken apart for refurbishing. Seems a PO in the past had the dreaded loose wire, meltdown of the Amp gauge system. Their solution was to cut the red and black wires to the gauge itself, remove the guts of the amp gauge and glue only the faceplate to Rally pack housing. I want something working to go back in.

I have read all 14 threads with 956 pages of "To amp gauge by pass or not to by pass" and think I can safely get that back working correct and safe. BUT, seems I cannot find a replacement unit being sold by any body or a direct bolt in volt gauge. So, to y'all , I am asking , who s got the replacements. With what I found, seems folks were buying whatever they could find , taking them apart and custom fitting some of the pieces into the gauge clusters. Is there any replacements out there for direct drop ins.......thanks.....

I have this one I will sell you for $25 plus the shipping.