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Where to get torsion bars under 1.03"?

DAMatt

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AS I understand, the R/T came with .94 torsion bars from the factory. Mine are worn out (ruined 2 shocks & 2 bump stops by bottoming out at an incline), and would like replacing them.

I would like the new torsion bars to be good at launching the car, so that means a smaller diameter - I have heard guys using /6 bars. However all I can find is 1.03" and above. Where does one find at least a factory diameter torsion bar? Or am I wrong, and you can have good drag launches with 1.03s?

I have tried PST, Mancini, Summit, Hotchkiss, FirmFeel (did not reply), even amazon & ebay...
 
Before I switched all my cars over to PST 1.03's, I bought a few .96" bars through our local Chrysler dealer. At the time they were cheaper than anywhere else.
 
Only time I ever saw wore out torsion bars is when the car took the Detroit lean. Then the bar was in two pieces.
 
About a year and half ago I couldn’t find .94 and .96 bars in stock anywhere and went with the 1.03” PST bars. They ride just fine and I don’t like a stiff spring, expansion joint jarring ride. But, I would not think they would be a great bar for weight transfer at the strip.
 
The 440/Hemi bars should be .925 1857780-18577781. A torsion bar cant ruin a shock or a bump stop. The shock should have sufficient travel to not bottom out or over extend. if it has that it won't be damaged. The key here is what do you want to do with the car? Street drive? Drag race? Handling? The small bars (.860" 1857774-1857775) from a /6 will provide more stored energy for drag racing. We run them in our drag cars. But if you think the bars you have now allow the front to float up or down over bumps causing damage now, these are not what you want.
Doug
 
Thank you for all the replies!
At first I thought there is no way a torsion bar can wear out, I mean you just twist the adaptor, and you compensate for the "sagging". But then again I saw many posts on the contrary, and one symptom was bottoming out. I am lowered, but still, I do not corner hard, there is only one incline I have to climb at an angle when visiting my parents. Currently, one bump stop is badly cracked, and the other missing entirely. One front shock was busted, and the new bilstein that replaced it almost surely had the same fate - gotta raise the car to be 100% sure. Why did this happen? I am ready to pull the trigger on the .925 bars, but I want to know if the same will happen to me after replacement. My question now is: does the 54yo .925 bar behave the same as a new .925 bar, if both are set at the same height? Why (not)?

Do .925 bars offer good enough weight transfer as compared to the .86s? How about when compared to the 1.03s?

I am willing to make sacrifices when driving on the street, for it to launch good at the track (not prepped). Thus I want to go SS springs with all the scary stories they entail about dump truck ride, I hope 3400lbs will give me a bit of comfort. Shocks, considering what is in stock, are QA1s front, Calvert 1"+ in the rear. Would like the car not to be ***-up, if possible keep a lower stance.

I have zero interest in making the car handle, but I would like a comfrotable ride if possible. Also, would like high speed stability on the highway.

I attached a pic to show how much lower my car sits from stock, to ask you if it is too much (front tire is 245/60). I met this gentleman from Ukraine who escaped with his family when the war broke out (Transylvania is South of the border from Ukraine). He has a '20 392 Scat Pack, and we saw each other totally by chance, here both of our cars are pretty rare. Hence we met again at Halloween (here we call it Illumination) to make a short photo shoot, old Charger vs last Charger...

Sergey.jpg
 
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